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Dave Wichman
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Apr 9, 2023
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Boulder
· Joined Mar 2019
· Points: 46
Thought I'd post this, because it hasn't happened to me before (and I think I learned something). The leader took an awkward fall (short, maybe 5 feet) at the first bolt and her force swung in/against the Petzl Spirit draw which torqued the carabiner against the rock and allowed the gate to come open. Luckly the rope didn't leave the carabiner, and she was lowered to the ground. It's just a reminder to be congnizant of hanging draws near an edge. I think this was more user error and bad luck than the gear itself. Climb safe.
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j mo
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Apr 9, 2023
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n az
· Joined Jan 2009
· Points: 1,225
Great reminder and reason to carry draws of significantly different lengths- for example some 12 and some 25 cm. glad it went ok!
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Kevin Mokracek
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Apr 9, 2023
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Burbank
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 378
100% user error and as was mentioned a good reminder to carry more than one length of draw. I typically carry short draws and a few long draws 18cm and at least two shoulder length on routes I’m not familiar with. This is also a reminder to developers not to put bolts in areas close to an edge, sometimes that may be the best most solid rock and that’s why the bolt was placed there but if at all possible avoid it.
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Conor Mark
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Apr 9, 2023
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Sacramento, CA
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 720
I've also seen this type of gate failure on the gear side carabiner in a vertical crack with a deep placement. Taught me to consider gates and edges apart from obvious edges like this one.
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Climbing Weasel
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Apr 10, 2023
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Massachusetts
· Joined May 2022
· Points: 0
rock climbing wrote:6ft fall or a bigger breakfast and she would have broke the carabiner. There is the option of using a carabiner instead of a draw What route is that? Probably a good idea to post something in the route comments What do you mean by using a carabiner instead of a draw?
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Andrew R
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Apr 10, 2023
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Marion, IA
· Joined Aug 2019
· Points: 0
I carry two 25mm quickdraws and one alpine draw. On the 25mm quickdraw I changed out the carabiner on the rope side to a green Edelrid carabiner so I can easily identify it.
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Alec O
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Apr 10, 2023
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Norwich, VT
· Joined Apr 2013
· Points: 31
It's also not crazy to use lockers on your quickdraws for bolts or other placements that lack redundancy.
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Cherokee Nunes
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Apr 10, 2023
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2015
· Points: 0
I think this was more user error and bad luck than the gear itself.
Definitely user error and if you think about it, luck was actually on her side.
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Dave Wichman
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Apr 10, 2023
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Boulder
· Joined Mar 2019
· Points: 46
This occured on a route called Send Town at Elizabeth Furnace in Virginia (I'll post the photo and a warning on the MP description). The rock quality on this route (and at most of the crag) is poor. We finished climbing the route using an extended draw which appeared to be a safer solution. Although the picture from the ground makes the decision to hang a longer draw look obvious, it wasn't initially apparent during the climb as the clip was a long reach from a compromised stance holding on to broken/loose rock. Hindsight is always 20/20. Definitely something I'll be more mindful of in the future.
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Gunkiemike
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Apr 10, 2023
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 3,777
A long reach you say? That sounds like a SECOND reason why there should be a steel cable Perma-Draw on that bolt.
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