11a/b's At The Red With Bouldery Start Followed by Easier Climbing.

Looking to send more 11s on my next trip. Ive fallen between the last clip and the anchors on Johnny B Good and Air Ride Equipped because I dont have the tank handle pumpy sections at the top. Ive been bouldering a lot more recently so looking for something I can throw down max effort for 2 clips off the ground and then climb 5.10ish to the top. Any suggestions? 

People more familiar with the red probably have better suggestions, but this route does fit your criteria.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/105866361

fuzzy underclings and air ride equipped immediately comes to mind, maybe 100 years of solitude as well.

Guernica, next to johnny b good, although there is a mini crux up at the final bolt as well, but not very pumpy in my opinion

you mentioned air ride equipped, did you use the lay down rest before the roof moves?

If you’re looking for true one bolt wonders, you could try Naked Lunch at Drive By. It’s 60 feet of 10- climbing into a hands free kneebar, then a one bolt boulder problem to the anchors

You might be better served by training power endurance for a few weeks prior to your next trip instead of hunting for specific style routes

If we are including 12s, then expresso will be by far the easiest thing you’ll climb at the red

Not exactly your criteria but have you been on Whip-stocking at Drive-By? That is a great entry level 11a with a couple of decent rests.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106081917/whip-stocking

You basically just described Immaculate Deception, except it's 11d. All the bite is packed into the first 15 ft with the first move being the hardest, then 5.9/.10 climbing after a hands free rest.  Beware this route is very height dependent and you may find it more like 12b if 5'7" or under.

Check out Momma Cindy as well, again the crux is the first few moves followed by sustained mid .10 climbing afterwards. Be careful around the 3rd as there is ledge fall potential if you blow it.

Areterection 11c @ Stadium, would fit your criteria nicely.

There's some  11s at chica bonita wall like "she might be a liar" and "size doesn't matter". Not the normal pumpy RRG routes just tech feet and fun.  

Ughhh, gross

William Wilsonwrote:

Areterection 11c @ Stadium, would fit your criteria nicely.

Dude Areterection is way way *way* harder than air ride.

Edit: Eye of the Needle is pretty good. Slabby crux at the start then easy climbing to the finish. 

The low 11's at Solar Collector are all bouldery starts for 2 bolts. Most have a no hands hueco rest before the rest of the climb.

Thanks for the tips all. Yes I have tried Whip Stocking, I got 7 clips before pumping out. No I didnt use the lie down rest on Air Ride, will have to look into that. No F'ing way I could do expresso or naked lunch Ive belayed my daughter on them and hell no. 

Gotta give ChrisK07 probs as the winner in this contest though, looks like 3 perfect routes in a row I can throw down on while my daughter tries 12's and 13's there. Def hitting Solar Collector. To those frowning on me for chasing grades, just let me have my fun and dont judge! 

Whipstocking at Driveby — hardest moves down low, then multiple rests.

Greenhorn, and Mona Lisa Overdrive at Solar Collector. Both have the hardest moves before the hueco at 2nd/3rd bolt, then easier climbing to the top. 

Doug Chismwrote:

Thanks for the tips all. Yes I have tried Whip Stocking, I got 7 clips before pumping out. No I didnt use the lie down rest on Air Ride, will have to look into that. No F'ing way I could do expresso or naked lunch Ive belayed my daughter on them and hell no. 

Gotta give ChrisK07 probs as the winner in this contest though, looks like 3 perfect routes in a row I can throw down on while my daughter tries 12's and 13's there. Def hitting Solar Collector. To those frowning on me for chasing grades, just let me have my fun and dont judge! 

i think it's after the 4th bolt, you can just lie down on a dirty shelf

i think the solar collector 11's are much pumpier than whipstocking and air ride equipped, but i probably just climbed them all stupid

JC Dwrote:

i think it's after the 4th bolt, you can just lie down on a dirty shelf

i think the solar collector 11's are much pumpier than whipstocking and air ride equipped, but i probably just climbed them all stupid

The problem for me on Whip Stocking and Air Ride is the pump just builds and builds until I peel off. I can do 2-3 bolts of pretty hard 5.11 climbing but afterwards I’ll need an amazing rest or a big drop off in difficulty. 

Doug Chismwrote:

The problem for me on Whip Stocking and Air Ride is the pump just builds and builds until I peel off. I can do 2-3 bolts of pretty hard 5.11 climbing but afterwards I’ll need an amazing rest or a big drop off in difficulty. 

Maybe you need to learn how to rest?
Whipstocking has two hands-free stances, as well as multiple kneebars.

Air ride equipped has two obvious hands-free stances and multiple spots where you can throw the leg over the shelf, wedge your foot/heel-toe cam, and take all weight off your hands. 

It’s all part of the skill set needed to climb these routes. Sure, if you could climb harder, you wouldn’t need the rests. But if you are working on sending the grade for the first time, the rests are part of the grade.  

Personally I can’t imagine any of the 11s at Solar Collector being easier than Air Ride. I’d take Lena’s advice here- with the right resting strategies, I think Air Ride is one of the least pumpy 11s you could get on. Commit to finding the rests and actually projecting it, I guarantee you’ll surprise yourself

Monkeys in the Middle at Old Zoo is overhung and pumpy but only hard move (for me) was down low.  Lots of rests.  

Lena chitawrote:

Maybe you need to learn how to rest?
Whipstocking has two hands-free stances, as well as multiple kneebars.

Air ride equipped has two obvious hands-free stances and multiple spots where you can throw the leg over the shelf, wedge your foot/heel-toe cam, and take all weight off your hands. 

It’s all part of the skill set needed to climb these routes. Sure, if you could climb harder, you wouldn’t need the rests. But if you are working on sending the grade for the first time, the rests are part of the grade.  

The first hands free on whip stocking is before the first clip and the second is before the wall steepens so I'm like 5% pumped then. I actually consider myself a good rester for a high 10 low 11 climber, but I've never found any fabulous rests on that route. My guess is you are showing up to these places way less pumped then me so they work but if you get there 90% pumped those rests suck. Planning on getting on both of these on my trip but I feel like I know my weaknesses better than you know me so I'm still more interested in routes that are hard down low. 

Shane Daviswrote:

Monkeys in the Middle at Old Zoo is overhung and pumpy but only hard move (for me) was down low.  Lots of rests.  

Great looking route thx.