Unparallel shoes / Five Ten

I go through a lot of shoes as sort of entertainment but also to learn how they work and don't work. It's just fun to me.

I've burned out two pairs of UP Uprise Pros, one pair of Blue Tomoa's and one pair of Flagships.

By far, with the exception of heel hook power being lower than Mad Rock Red Straps or Drones, the Tomoa Blues were the most versatile shoe I've ever worn. While they shouldn't micro edge, they did amazingly on insanely thin razors. While they shouldn't crystal toe point that well, they did amazingly. Both of these operated with a very real caveat though, there was a countdown timer on both microedgesa and crystal pointing. I could reset the clock when needed and didn't mind because the shoe would allow creativity and fake-moves when you needed to that other shoes just would not. Street Size took some sessions to break in but afterward they became perfect performance fit and also must fit my feet very well bc I can wear these tight shoes longer than others.

In sharp contrast the UP Uprise Pros were very good for certain types of bouldering and trad but lacked in the true smear and fake-move department. On large crystal granite like VOO and E-rock you could pick crystals out where you would have just smeared in other shoes. That might be great if you prefer precise micro holds over sketchy seeming smears. Of course the rock dictates what is viable. In both pairs of Purples the pull tabs blew out first and while the shoe is completely operable cilmbing when I open my drawers to choose shoes for the day I am less likey to pick one up that is hard to put on. The purple UP Pros did have a learning curve as it is much easier to get foot-stuck in cracks with these rubber monsters. TBH I prefer these Purples for certain types of bouldering rather than a do-all trad shoe. If I need a bomber heel and a shoe to do weird grabbing this is the one I reach for besides a Red Strap because the stiffness helps sometimes over the insanely grippy but soft Red Strap. These don't really break in so it may be good to get the size right the first time if you live near a good store which is rare.

The Flagships feel great but in performance on the fine grain granite and larger crystal granite i frequent I enjoy the Tomoa's much better. I think if I hung out on more limestone sport routes the Flagships' attributes would stand out better. The Flagships fit supremely well in my street size.

I just received Gold Tomoas a few days ago and after a few sessions I hope they perform much like the TN Blues and don't feel much different. Many times I found myself overjoyed to be standing on something impossible looking with the TN Blues so I'm hoping for a repeat experience. I attempted to order more TN Blues but they went OOS and the Golds showed up.

i probably have 25 pairs of shoes and overall the UP have been near the top of the heap in performance and durability -  I've had longer durability with them than other top models I really enjoy like 2022 Katana Lace which is amazing but blew out quickly, TC Pros and Miuras which I blow out pretty quickly, and Mad Rocks which seem to pop apart more often than others but are worth it due ot amazing performance. 

If UP would make some hightop like a Grandstone or a hightop with the nice toe like the new Katanas I'd defintely try them out! Has UP ever made a high-top? 

Miles Johnsonwrote:

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If UP would make some hightop like a Grandstone or a hightop with the nice toe like the new Katanas I'd defintely try them out! Has UP ever made a high-top? 

Word from Sang is that they're in the works, so let's see. 

Miles Johnsonwrote:

I just received Gold Tomoas a few days ago and after a few sessions I hope they perform much like the TN Blues and don't feel much different. Many times I found myself overjoyed to be standing on something impossible looking with the TN Blues so I'm hoping for a repeat experience. I attempted to order more TN Blues but they went OOS and the Golds showed up.

Are there any major differences in fit between the Golds and Blues?  I have tried the Blues and the LVs, but not the Golds. I assume most of the specs are the same, but if there are any distinct differences it might be cool to know. Thanks!

I ended up ordering a pair each of the UpMoccs and UpRise in 10.0, which is the same EU size as my other comfortable-once-stretched climbing shoes (43) and a half size down from normal street shoe size. Ordered Thursday, delivered this morning, so good turnaround but bad communication from UP (order still says processing, never got tracking). 

The UpMocc heel fit is close to perfect for me. The UpRise has an odd little empty spot directly under the heel at the rear that might go away as the heel cup stretches a bit, but it's much better than the La Sportivas I've tried which tend to feel baggy in the heel even when my toes are compressed. Both shoes are snug past the point of leave-on comfort, with the UpRise feeling a little more pinched in the toe box. I think the UpMoccs at this size should stretch into a comfortable but still nicely snug fit since they have a leather upper. The UpRise might stay in the slightly uncomfortable zone since they are synthetic and the entire toe box is encased in rubber; street shoe size for anyone with a wider toe box like me might be the way to go; we'll see how they stretch in. 

Hopefully that info is useful to anyone else looking at buying UPs without access to a place to try them on in person. 

Anyone try the Up Duels?

Impossible to find a pair to try on and I've read they should be 1 full sized down from street size for a nice fit compared to other Up models. Anyone confirm this and how have you liked the shoe's performance so far?

Alek Fredrikssonwrote:

Are there any major differences in fit between the Golds and Blues?  I have tried the Blues and the LVs, but not the Golds. I assume most of the specs are the same, but if there are any distinct differences it might be cool to know. Thanks!

I had not tried the Golds on anything micro-edgey but today I swapped between generic trad shoes and then Gold TN Pros and the performance was unbelievable on stiff 5.10d friction slab. When I got the Blues I was so surprised how well they micro edges and performed on granite.

these golds feel a little less sensitive (so far) but SOLID when you choose a smear or pick out a crystal to point on. My effort went from 9/10 to 5/10 on that route today so I tossed the trad shoes down the cliff to the trail and kept the TN Golds on all day.

As far as fit, I think they’re about the same. Left foot fits like a suction cup and the right foot does for the most part except a slight loose spot on right pinky side. NBD though 

Frodo Swagginswrote:

Anyone try the Up Duels?

Impossible to find a pair to try on and I've read they should be 1 full sized down from street size for a nice fit compared to other Up models. Anyone confirm this and how have you liked the shoe's performance so far?

I have had the UP moccs and a friend of mine has had both the moccs and the duels. She says the duels felt looser at first compared to the same size in the moccs, but then over time the moccs loosened/stretched to feel larger than the duels.  If I was to get the duels, I would go 1/2 size 1 size down from SS for a comfy but snug fit. 

Edit: 1/2 up from UP Moccs for Duels. 

Alek Fredrikssonwrote:

I have had the UP moccs and a friend of mine has had both the moccs and the duels. She says the duels felt looser at first compared to the same size in the moccs, but then over time the moccs loosened/stretched to feel larger than the duels.  If I was to get the duels, I would go 1/2 size down from SS for a comfy but snug fit. 

I actually went a full size down from street size for the Duels. I have 27.2cm heel to toe and got them in a 9.5. I am actually surprised at the performance. I find myself wearing them for everything in my gym that includes a 55ft+ lead cave. I prefer these to the moccs.

Anyone happen to know a shoe that fits similar (especially the heel) to the Up Mocc but with a slightly wider forefoot?

I love my pair but they have started to cause some issues with my toe health. I've thought about going up a half size but they're already sized reasonably "snugfortable" for me so it might defeat the point of a slipper. I'm thinking it's a width issue as there seems to be a weird pinch/pressure point on the outer edge of my toes. Maybe it's something about the rubber coverage? I had 5.10 Moccs in the exact same size and didn't have any issues.

Dandan - completely blind guess, but maybe the Evolv slipper? I think Evolvs generally have a wider toe box 

Does Unparallel ever have sales? I got a discount code after trying on shoes and when I went to checkout the code didnt work. Wanted to try a couple different rock shoes and the approach shoes, but will probably wait until a sale if they ever happen

Taylor Owenswrote:

Does Unparallel ever have sales? I got a discount code after trying on shoes and when I went to checkout the code didnt work. Wanted to try a couple different rock shoes and the approach shoes, but will probably wait until a sale if they ever happen

Not sure about the official site, but I see them on sale quite often at our local shop (Climb On Squamish)

Taylor Owenswrote:

Does Unparallel ever have sales? I got a discount code after trying on shoes and when I went to checkout the code didnt work. Wanted to try a couple different rock shoes and the approach shoes, but will probably wait until a sale if they ever happen

Just hit them up saying your code didnt work and you'd be stoked to get into their shoes. Bet they will extend a discount to you.

Is the souped up their attempt at a super soft shoe, a la drago or theory?  looking at the trait chart, it seems the flagship is a better shoe in every way. Unless you need a shoe with a stiffer midsole, why not get a flagship over a souped up?

Alex Wongwrote:

Is the souped up their attempt at a super soft shoe, a la drago or theory?  looking at the trait chart, it seems the flagship is a better shoe in every way. Unless you need a shoe with a stiffer midsole, why not get a flagship over a souped up?

I got a pair early (although they ended up being too tight), they definitely function differently than the Flagships.  They are a lot softer and allow your forefoot much more dexterity. Probably a much less well-rounded shoe than the flagship; more niche. 

I’ve had the souped up for about a month and been using them outside on gneiss, granite, and schist. For me, they are extremely comfortable and climb all types a varying terrain very well. I sized same as street shoe, and for this season, when I often climb in thin socks the fit is fantastic. Heel is secure, toes able to stand on small edges, smears well, toe hooks great, stable on foot cams, and the flexibility allows for good grabbing on the steeps. Maybe my new go-to from UP… I have most of the others styles from the brand and grab these most often. Awesome indoor shoe and good for the board.

I have also used the flagship for many of the same uses and although they share some similarities, the shoes feel a bit different, and so far I prefer the souped up. Will be getting a pair 1/2 size smaller as well.

here the foot moves vary from micro granite bumps,  barely there smears, tiny edging, and some techy heel-hooking. Shoes handled it all very well. Another awesome product from UP!

I am over this company, took 3 months and multiple E-mails to get a refund, they don't give shipping information and keep you in the dark. Two-day shipping used to be the norm, now I am day 11 with no shoes and was charged a week ago. They don't answer phones nor reply to any e-mails. Just horrible customer service.

It's sad too because I touted their shoes as much as I can, but I am sick of being dicked around by them.

Frodo Swagginswrote:

I am over this company, took 3 months and multiple E-mails to get a refund, they don't give shipping information and keep you in the dark. Two-day shipping used to be the norm, now I am day 11 with no shoes and was charged a week ago. They don't answer phones nor reply to any e-mails. Just horrible customer service.

It's sad too because I touted their shoes as much as I can, but I am sick of being dicked around by them.

My experience is similar.  I'm done promoting them too.  No idea what is happening with my refund.  I had to pay shipping both ways on exchanges and each bigger size felt smaller than the last.  Cost a fortune and ended up with no shoes and no refund (yet).  They gave me a code for free shoes that didn't work - didn't answer the phone when I called. Didn't respond to voicemail.  Really too bad because I like my UPLace and really want to love this company...  but, they pretty much suck and I have to try to find someone else who makes good shoes in sizes bigger than 46.

I’ve been on the hunt for some replacement hiangles (blues or grays) and stumbled across this thread. I really like the look of these, but this thread and the fact you can’t buy anything on the UP website (supply issues?), sketches me out a bit.

Does anyone have any insight on when they’ll get supply chain issues sorted? (Or any lines on old blue/gray hiangles?)

Ian Crossettwrote:

Does anyone have any insight on when they’ll get supply chain issues sorted? (Or any lines on old blue/gray hiangles?)

"Supply chain" is just air cover.  They can't run the business.