Tonsai Railey Guidebook Recs.

There seems to be quite a few guidebooks for Thailand climbing and specifically Railey. Does anyone have any recommendations? Looking for climbing only (sport and DWS), don’t care about touristy shit.

You going there soon? 

I'll be there Jan/ Feb and looking for a partner...

Mountain Project actually works pretty well for the sport routes in Railay/Tonsai at least to start out with, maybe not so much for the other places like Ao Nang. I don’t have a book recc, sorry but there’s ~4-5 gear shops/guide services in Railay that have guidebooks so you could pick one up there.

For DWS, you have to either hire a private boat which is expensive and logistically difficult because the DWS places are actually islands that are far from Railay …or go with a guide service (Basecamp Tonsai), you need a minimum of four people and it costs 1500 baht per person ($40) for a full day. Includes lunch/water and shoe rental so you don’t get yours wrecked. The guides take you to a couple different sites, set up ladders to evade the sharp oyster barrier/tides, and have chalk on the rock already. They also bring a kayak and taxi you around so you can stay dry(ish).

It’s WICKED FUN, highly recommend the guide service, I did it three days ago. But if you’re a serious DWSer, perhaps better to do your own research and hire a private boat.

I have no first-hand experience, but I was trying to decide between guidebooks as well. The three I skimmed were Suebhait 2016, Schmitz 2018, and Lightner 2005. From the publication date alone I crossed out Lightner, though it is worth noting it was the only book that had photo topos (albeit black and white) instead of drawn. Between the other two, I think Subhait had slightly better maps and topos, but in a way where the difference probably doesn't matter much. For example Suebhait lists which individual bolts on a route are titanium, whereas Schmitz only says which (whole?) routes have titanium bolts, and I'm not sure the added detail at the bolt-to-bolt level is enough to change my behavior at the crag. Schmitz's information is also 2 years newer and has better general info like a summary table with which walls have what grades and when they go into shade and if they're good in the rain. In terms of availability Suebhait isn't in print anymore and so the best way to get it is on the Vertical Life app, which is cheaper and lighter for traveling, but also awful to use. Schmitz is still widely available in print if you want a hard copy.

Just to follow up on this, from skimming "The Pocket Guide" at the Railey climbing shop, that book looks like it's the best of all available. It had the most comprehensive overview tables and had actual photos (though somewhat grainy) instead of drawings in its topos. I have no idea if it's possible to get outside of Thailand though.

I’ve got the old Lightner Jr. book I’m looking to get rid of -- if anyone wants to pay $8-12 to ship, it’s yours. The maps and topos would help, but the King book is best for up to date bolting and shade aspects. I just popped into the climbing shop to read the King book about shade and bolts.