THE BIG WALL PORN POST!

Spending a night above water on Atlantis was a pretty spectacular experience. Extremely isolated, and we got to throw rocks off and wait 6 seconds for the splash. 

Isaiah aka Zay Foulks wrote:

Taken with a cell phone aimed through a pair of 8 X 42 binoc's.

That's a really amazing photo!  I have spent over 800 nights on El Cap, and only once did I see a pair of those gigantic birds sail past.  Are they condors?  

Pitch five on Virginia felt like "crossing the Rubicon" to me. 

Photo by Tom Evans. 

Isaiah aka Zay Foulks wrote:

I'm sure this ledge needs no introduction.

Taken during our ascent of Triple Direct, my first bigwall (after running four laps up the swan slab aid route).

Ended up having to call YOSAR for advice about another party who kept asking us to fix pitches for them, and whose language barrier resulted in a late night shit show at the Glowering Spot.

Brad Gobright rapped in on us to work the Changing Corners pitch. Super cool guy.

John Long actually commented on my trip report: "Fantastic piece. A real narrative!"

If anyone is bored:

  supertopo.com/tr/Rescues-an…

To myself: oh hey a TR by Zay. He’s a good writer. I’ll save this to read a little while later. Well hmm I guess I can at least start it while I wait for the kids to fall asleep. Starts reading. Emerges from kids room an hour later. Wife: kids took a while to sleep tonight?! Me: not exactly…..

All to say, well written and please don’t stop writing and sharing!

Hey Ricky, post up those sexy porn photos you took of me this spring! Ricky has a very large ... 

.. lens. 

Rpropswrote:

That sure is some beautiful geometry and a mighty thin crack.  Are all of those placements ball nuts (or some type of similar contraption)?  Definitely interested in some info and the name of that route.  Is this photo from the FA by chance?  Nice to not see obvious pin scars and hammer marks.

I think it's a ball nut, a small offset cam, and then 4 ball nuts in a row. There's a pin scar above the screamer and one after the red ball nut, I think. The most secure one is definitely the blue lowe-ball I'm hanging on. After this piece it's 3 or 4 .1s or .1/.2 offsets coming up. I can't remember if this is a shady 00 backed up by a dicey .1, or a suspect .1 backed up by a yawning 00, but I know it was hard to place dangling off that lowe-ball.

The pitch gets A2 or A3, but if you bring doubles in ball nuts you can get away with no hammering. 

This is The Big Payback in Red Rock.

I just love the big air on big walls, and I'm really looking forward to getting back on El Cap starting September 15th.  My partner and I are looking for an experienced third to join us.  These big wall nailup projects take about two weeks from start to finish, including schlepping and fixing, climbing and repairing hardware, and descent.  Message me if you have the time and experience. If you don't have a couple weeks available the last two weeks of September, at least come by the evening of Tuesday September 14th for a big bash at the bear boxes!  It's gonna be a real RIPPER!  Bring your favourite beer or wine.  There might even be some margaritas, with salted rim, of course.

And if you want to learn stuff, we can always use help. Bring along your jugs and aiders and adjustable daisies and come join us fixing pitches on El Cap. Beers will be involved. There is no better way to learn the tricks on how to climb big walls than to do so while actually climbing a big wall. See how all the systems get put together, and then see them in use. You even get the Dr. Piton guarantee: you will learn enough stuff now that will later save you enough time, money and heartache to completely underwrite the energy expended. Message me if you're interested.

Click on the photos for a higher-res view, eh?

^^ How's this for some big air? Porn photo on Waterfall Route in September, 2017 - one day before 30,000 cubic metres of the route fell off. With good ol Paddy Mcredmond and good ol Ryan Sheridan. We missed certain death by less than 24 hours.  God must have a purpose for me, eh?

 

^^ Good ol' Steve "Shipoopi" Schneider [or if you prefer the French variation, "Shipoopoi" not to be confused with the Hawai'ian variation "Shipoopoi"] belaying me high on The Real Nose, a really great route even if it was put up by a total dickhead.  We will be climbing this fall close to this spot.  Big air doesn't get much bigger than this anywhere! 

 

^^ Here with my good buddy Carl Stone from Mariposa at the El Cap bear boxes.  Gimme a glass of wine, and I'll sing and play most any jazz standard you ask. Gimme another glass, and I'll stop!    [Fa-toop poop, KSH!]   << rim shot

Don't miss out on good times in the Centre of the Universe. Be there, or be square!

Cheers, eh?
PtPP aka Dr. Piton

Rpropswrote:

I think it's a ball nut, a small offset cam, and then 4 ball nuts in a row. There's a pin scar above the screamer and one after the red ball nut, I think. The most secure one is definitely the blue lowe-ball I'm hanging on. After this piece it's 3 or 4 .1s or .1/.2 offsets coming up. I can't remember if this is a shady 00 backed up by a dicey .1, or a suspect .1 backed up by a yawning 00, but I know it was hard to place dangling off that lowe-ball.

The pitch gets A2 or A3, but if you bring doubles in ball nuts you can get away with no hammering. 

This is The Big Payback in Red Rock.

Thank you for going into the details.  It was cool to get an idea of just how thin it was through that section.  Pretty inspiring effort to avoid nailing through there.    Was that one of the routes crux sections? 

We need to revive this thread for the fall season! I wanna see your climbs, oh yeah

I placed this cam hook almost hoping to whip. It held and we ended up "on sighting" our route i.e. no aid falls. DANG!

Yes, Andrew. Just got down from Lurking Fear. We each wore a light pack with inflatable sleeping pad, bivy blanket, and maybe a gallon of water/person. It was a no-hauling-allowed, day-and-a-half ascent. Very fun way to do this route, especially given the nice stable/warm weather this past week.

Lurking fear?

jt newgardwrote:

Yes, Andrew. Just got down from Lurking Fear..

 Nice!!!!!   

Shitting bricks on The Avatar. 

Tell me about a more fun lower-out, so I can do it. #realclimbersfollow

Rpropswrote:

Tell me about a more fun lower-out, so I can do it. #realclimbersfollow

Wow, amazing looking pitch but I’m a little concerned about that green rope…

Brian Rwrote:

Wow, amazing looking pitch but I’m a little concerned about that green rope…

Bought it from Chongo. It's a theoretical quantum rope; sometimes it's there, sometimes it ain't. 

@FailFalling is the RubberBand Man!!!

  Tom Evans 

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

Color coded racking loops for the upcoming wall because I'm bougie 

Shouldn’t the 1’s be red? 2’s yellow? And 3’s Blue? 

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

Rpropswrote:

In an effort to restore balance to the force: