What's your favorite FAST technical scrambling/approach shoe, 2022 edition?

Jay Andersonwrote:

Reminds me that I have belt sanded the underside of the toe area of inserts (ski boots) to reduce volume up there without losing the arch support, etc.  I think I will try that in my smaller pair of TXGuides.  Thanks!

Or consider taking out the original inserts and instead use Superfeet® EASYFIT insoles?

They're 3/4 sized inserts leaving extra space for the piggies. I use these in my runners. I was apprehensive at 1st being that they're 3/4. Expecting them to slide about while jogging. But if the shoe is laced correctly and tied normally, no sliding or slipping yet. been quite pleased with the feel and support provided during the grinders.

jcs

TX2 has become my favorite approach shoe by far. High performance for climbing especially with adding proper climbing rubber in the forefoot, adequate for running over reasonable distances.

my holy grail would be velcro tx4. and maybe a pair of velcro evolve cruzers (for a pair of small, light, nimble shoes that you just need to descend back to the base and wear your other shoes when you hike out). 

i really don't understand why various companies have multiple (often somewhat redundant) approach shoes, but i haven't seen any velcro ones.  these would be great for a lot of things - routes where you are back and forth between a regular shoe (sometimes with light crampon) and climbing shoes, or even just quick on and off at the crag.

I have loved the Scarpa Rapid for this. They're the best of both worlds, super comfortable, super breathable. 

I really don't like the TX Guides or TX4 in comparison. In fact, no Sportiva approach shoe is as good on most trail surfaces especially loose terrain. I am mostly a boulderer and often carrying 2 large pads plus gear. The worst thing is slipping in any way when walking down or up a steep trail, which happened much more frequently with Sportiva models for me. I would imagine those models are much better for actual approaches, but even backcountry stuff in Tahoe is notably more comfortable and I feel just as confident scrambling talus.

How do the Rapids fit? I am not familiar with Scarpa running shoes, but they look promising.

Putting this out there as you requested FAST approach shoe. The favorite for a lot of Flatiron scramblers is the La Sportiva Mutant. You’ll likely be able to climb off-vertical ~5.6 in them, some people push that grade higher. Make no mistake, it’s a trail runner so it’s a softer sole than an approach shoe and had a less durable outer, but for speed and comfort combined it is fantastic. I scramble in them weekly.

If I know I have to do any edging then I switch to an approach shoe, but for less-than-vertical terrain the mutant is awesome. 

jackscoldsweatwrote:

Or consider taking out the original inserts and instead use Superfeet® EASYFIT insoles?

Thanks!  Ordered a pair.  Didn't have to find the belt sander...

J Cwrote:

How do the Rapids fit? I am not familiar with Scarpa running shoes, but they look promising.

So, the sizing is a bit weird. I ordered what I thought was a 10 US and got a 43 equivalent and was a 43.5 in Sportiva. Given that they are thin and breathable they're not my winter approach shoes, but if you want to use them in winter I'd go a half size up and I probably will next time, but my feet don't feel constricted in them if that makes sense.

J Cwrote:

How do the Rapids fit? I am not familiar with Scarpa running shoes, but they look promising.

I found the heal and midfoot to fit true to size and normal foot width (I'm typ.45.5-46 in Scarpa mountaineering boots and mojitos) but found the forefoot too narrow and low volume for my foot.  That's been the case with most scarpa running lasts for me though.  A wide width would probably be perfect for me.  Amazon had them on prime earlier this year but unsure of now.

Thanks for your input everyone! Sounds like this was helpful for more than a few people, which is awesome. I love when these forums can actually be helpful and not just devolve into egotesticle cyberwankery.

Looks like I'm going to return my TX Guide Leathers and check out the Scarpa Rapids. They don't seem to have *quite* the climbing forefoot I'd like, but they sound like a good compromise between a trail runner and approach shoe. The Holy Grail sounds like something that more than a few of us are still searching for, and thus a worthwhile design challenge for the manufacturers...

As a start: the Scarpa Rapids have a "climbing zone" on the toe region of the sole, which is awesome, but the laces end far too high up to make it that useful for edging. All Scarpa would have to do is take the lacing down a bit (adding sticky rubber to the upper toebox would be great, too). Sportiva, you make great trail runners/mountain shoes--arguably some of the best in the biz--like the Kaptiva, Raptor, Mutant, etc, and all you'd have to do to make any one of them the Holy Grail would be to add a "climbing zone"  like on the Rapids and they'd be nearly perfect (ok, maybe take that lacing down a bit more, too). The TX Guide Leathers could be that ultimate shoe, but they need to be, well, not leather, and yeah, built more around the design of a trail runner. Shoot, if you could just combine the leather Guide with the Mutant or Raptor, that'd be it! Sigh... Salewa actually pulled this off somewhat effectively with the Wildfire Edges, but they just don't fit me well. Sigh... 

Reporting back after taking jackcoldsweat's advice and putting the Superfoot Easy Fit Slim shorty insoles in my TXGuides (the older pair which is 1/2 size smaller than my newer pair).  Makes a BIG difference in toe room!  Shoes much more comfortable now for long periods and after being beat up in rock shoes.  Highly recommend this if you love your TXGuides, but are crunched in the toes.

Shorty insoles slide around which is a pain.  Putting your foot in naturally pushes it forward - banging heel of shoe into rock brings it back and seats it in heel.  I just put a blob of hot-melt glue under the heel to hold it in place.  We'll see how long that holds.

The other TXGuide hack is that 3mm accessory cord works well as replacement shoe lace.  It is bigger diameter than the original lace, so is more difficult to adjust (good and bad depending on what you're trying to do).  Bigger cord feels like it will last much longer.  I used 210cm per shoe which is long enough that shoe can be really loose and still tied.  When tight, it doesn't seem to long.  I tried to melt the ends with a bit of a cone shape for threading and didn't put anything on the ends.  If they ever unravel, I plan to put a short piece of heat shrink on the ends.

Jay Andersonwrote:

Reporting back after taking jackcoldsweat's advice and putting the Superfoot Easy Fit Slim shorty insoles in my TXGuides (the older pair which is 1/2 size smaller than my newer pair).  Makes a BIG difference in toe room!  Shoes much more comfortable now for long periods and after being beat up in rock shoes.  Highly recommend this if you love your TXGuides, but are crunched in the toes.

Shorty insoles slide around which is a pain.  Putting your foot in naturally pushes it forward - banging heel of shoe into rock brings it back and seats it in heel.  I just put a blob of hot-melt glue under the heel to hold it in place.  We'll see how long that holds.

The other TXGuide hack is that 3mm accessory cord works well as replacement shoe lace.  It is bigger diameter than the original lace, so is more difficult to adjust (good and bad depending on what you're trying to do).  Bigger cord feels like it will last much longer.  I used 210cm per shoe which is long enough that shoe can be really loose and still tied.  When tight, it doesn't seem to long.  I tried to melt the ends with a bit of a cone shape for threading and didn't put anything on the ends.  If they ever unravel, I plan to put a short piece of heat shrink on the ends.

Glad it is working out for the piggies. 

Great idea on using hot glue to secure the inserts! The sliding around was never an issue for me as i only use the inserts during hiking/approach portion of the excursion. i take them out before getting on route. chuck em in the pack or leave em at base camp.
 

jcs

Another idea rather than hot glue is to clean the insole and and the bottom of the inside of the shoe with alcohol and then use some spray adhesive. They make various strengths, you should be able to find one that holds, but only temporarily. I would use a weaker one, as the surface area of the insole should help. 

Great shoe hacks! Love it.