Unparallel shoes / Five Ten

Unparallel came out with 3 new shoe models! Their website also includes a radar chart showing the characteristics (smearing, edging, etc.) for most of their shoes.

New shoes: Flagship, Up-Rise Pro and Leopard II

Pretty exciting!

Except that the shoe characteristic chart doesn't make sense and it's still UP craftsmanship...

Karl Walterswrote:

Except that the shoe characteristic chart doesn't make sense and it's still UP craftsmanship...

I've been wearing UPs since 2019, and I have definitely noticed an increase in quality. I've still had a few quirky defects for sure, which is to be expected from any brand, but overall the pull tabs seem to be more reinforced and the sizing between pairs of the same model has gotten more consistent too. The only issues I currently have are with the lining on a few pairs and the heel rubber of the Regulus LV delaminating on sharp Maryland Rock...

Ultimately I wear them because they fit my foot shape better than most other brands.

I just got a pair of the new Flagships, and I personally like them more than any other brand of shoe I've tried thus far. The tensioning is awesome, and it makes them feel much different than other UP models.

Alek Fredrikssonwrote:

I've been wearing UPs since 2019, and I have definitely noticed an increase in quality. I've still had a few quirky defects for sure, which is to be expected from any brand, but overall the pull tabs seem to be more reinforced and the sizing between pairs of the same model has gotten more consistent too. The only issues I currently have are with the lining on a few pairs and the heel rubber of the Regulus LV delaminating on sharp Maryland Rock...

Ultimately I wear them because they fit my foot shape better than most other brands.

I just got a pair of the new Flagships, and I personally like them more than any other brand of shoe I've tried thus far. The tensioning is awesome, and it makes them feel much different than other UP models.

That’s good to hear, was thinking of trying the Flagships. Still happy with my OG Sirius shoes, they’re amazing, just can’t crank too much on the pull tabs. How do the Flagships feel as far as a soft shoe?

D Elliotwrote:

That’s good to hear, was thinking of trying the Flagships. Still happy with my OG Sirius shoes, they’re amazing, just can’t crank too much on the pull tabs. How do the Flagships feel as far as a soft shoe?

At least for me, they will replace my Sirius LVs.  The lining seems to tear for me too frequently, and then once sweaty bunches up at my toes.  I prefer UP's unlined shoes much more, and the Flagships work wonderfully as a soft shoe for me.  They toehook better than anything I've tried, the heel is pretty awesome too with how much tensioning they have.  Overall, the forefoot is as stiff as the Sirius, and the heel rubber is about as stiff as the Sirius as well.  The main difference is the arch, which is very soft and flexible.  The tensioning means that I can both curl my toes to "grab" holds but also flex my foot to edge very well too.  I've only used them for a few sessions now, so I don't have a perfect idea of how they'll break in long-term, or how they perform outside.  For sizing I went 1.5 sizes down from my SS (which is a USM 7), 0.5 sizes down from my Regulus LV (USM 6).  I wear the Sirius LV in a USM 7 (my SS size) but would probably wear them in a USM 6.5 if I was to buy them again.  The Flagships I got in a USM 5.5.  They feel higher volume but sizing down just mean my toes curl a lot and the heel is fully tensioned.  Hope that helps!   

Alek Fredrikssonwrote:

I've been wearing UPs since 2019, and I have definitely noticed an increase in quality. I've still had a few quirky defects for sure, which is to be expected from any brand, but overall the pull tabs seem to be more reinforced and the sizing between pairs of the same model has gotten more consistent too. The only issues I currently have are with the lining on a few pairs and the heel rubber of the Regulus LV delaminating on sharp Maryland Rock...

Ultimately I wear them because they fit my foot shape better than most other brands.

I just got a pair of the new Flagships, and I personally like them more than any other brand of shoe I've tried thus far. The tensioning is awesome, and it makes them feel much different than other UP models.

I've worn them off and on since they came out and while quality has improved, I'd rank them below Mad Rock still. I am glad they are finally making a decent split sole shoe and not just variants of the Five Ten designs.

Did anyone figure out if they are making a version of the Galileo ?

Or Blancos?

Doug Hutchinsonwrote:

Or Blancos?

The Up Lace is probably the Blanco equivalent.

Goodman Sachswrote:

Did anyone figure out if they are making a version of the Galileo ?

I wish they were,  but I havent seen one yet.  If they are I want to know.

Does anyone know if there are any shops in the broader Seattle area with Unparallel shoes? Their shipping prices are kind of rough so I'd rather buy in person if possible especially since I'm not sure how they size with my feet. 

Kevin newell wrote:

I believe SBP sells several styles, though I’m not 100% on which ones. 

You are right, they do have them. I'd never actually looked over at their shoe selection when I'm in there. Unfortunately they didn't have any Unparallels in the size range I was looking to try, so if anyone can provide guidance on a size comparison between La Sportiva and Unparallels I'd appreciate it. Trying to avoid paying for their expensive shipping and having to pay for a wrong size return on top of that. 43.0 is comfortably snug for me after break in for my La Sportiva shoes (Otakis and Finales). Unparallel's sizing guide would suggest a 10.0 based on that. 

I bought a pair from the main climbing store in Squamish a month ago. He said a lot of his customers like them. I've not used them yet, but they look solid. As good or better than the other main stream shoes.

Jordan Rogerswrote:

You are right, they do have them. I'd never actually looked over at their shoe selection when I'm in there. Unfortunately they didn't have any Unparallels in the size range I was looking to try, so if anyone can provide guidance on a size comparison between La Sportiva and Unparallels I'd appreciate it. Trying to avoid paying for their expensive shipping and having to pay for a wrong size return on top of that. 43.0 is comfortably snug for me after break in for my La Sportiva shoes (Otakis and Finales). Unparallel's sizing guide would suggest a 10.0 based on that. 

In general, I’m 1-2 sizes up in Unparallel  versus La Sportiva, depending on the model. I feel that Up shoes are towards the narrow half of the spectrum, but Otaki being a wider fitting shoe. What model of Up where you considering?

R Bridgewrote:

In general, I’m 1-2 sizes up in Unparallel  versus La Sportiva, depending on the model. I feel that Up shoes are towards the narrow half of the spectrum, but Otaki being a wider fitting shoe. What model of Up where you considering?

I was looking at the Up Moccs and Up Rise. So you’re suggesting going with something closer to actual street shoe size, 10.5/11 in my case? 

I wear street size (I like a snug street shoe) up moccs 8.5, tried the 8s, they were too small. Also wear size 8/41 miura vs 

I have LaSportiva Katana Lace (old & new) & TC Pro in 46.  They are too tight and I wish they made 46.5.  I have LaSpo Finale in 47 and they are a little big - good if my feet are beat up.  I have UP Lace in 46.5 and love them.   Based on my experience, I would say that UP Lace and LaSpo sizing are very similar.  However, UP approach shoes were huge for size.

Jay Andersonwrote:

......However, UP approach shoes were huge for size.

I have UP Rock Guides and they are the only approach shoes I've found wide enough for my feet. They are my usual size though. I find the rubber exceptionally grippy and better than C4. Best approach shoes available, imo. They do not have a lot of cushioning but climb extremely well, with much better edging than La Sportiva Guide Leathers. I've been able to uncomfortably wear Guide Leathers as they stretch in width over time, but the Rock Guides are wide enough and feel great straight out of the box. La Sportiva TX2's, 3's and 4's are way too narrow.

Other than the UP Rock Guides, the only other shoes wide enough to fit me comfortably are Altras, though they are just trail shoes.

edit: I bought the UP Rock Guides at Sage and Summit in Bishop. It’s not easy to find a shop that has them, especially in the SF Bay area, where this is impossible.

Terry Ewrote:

I have UP Rock Guides and they are the only approach shoes I've found wide enough for my feet. They are my usual size though. I find the rubber exceptionally grippy and better than C4. Best approach shoes available, imo. They do not have a lot of cushioning but climb extremely well, with much better edging than La Sportiva Guide Leathers. I've been able to uncomfortably wear Guide Leathers as they stretch in width over time, but the Rock Guides are wide enough and feel great straight out of the box. La Sportiva TX2's, 3's and 4's are way too narrow.

Other than the UP Rock Guides, the only other shoes wide enough to fit me comfortably are Altras, though they are just trail shoes.

I ordered UP Rock Guides in same size as my UP Lace and same size as my LaSpo approach shoes.  They were absolutely huge and I returned them.  Due to their high shipping costs and lack of stock, I didn't wait for a 1/2 size down.  The people I know that are using UP approach shoes (route setter and guide shoe) are really happy with them.

Jordan Rogerswrote:

I was looking at the Up Moccs and Up Rise. So you’re suggesting going with something closer to actual street shoe size, 10.5/11 in my case? 

Haven’t tried the Up Moccs, but the Up rise I go half size down for a snug comfortable fit, sss for al day comfort and full size down for slightly aggressive.

They’re quite a bit more narrow than the Otaki though.