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Northeastern comparison to Snake Dike (Yosemite)

Original Post
Ian Dibbs · · Lake Placid · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 2,492

I'm  wondered if anyone has climbed the Snake Dike in Yosemite... and can compare it to an Eastern climb. Snake looks much steeper than Chapel Pond Slide (ADK) or the Standard Route at Whitehorse ... would Little Fingers at Rogers Rock be a good comparison ???

Ian Dibbs · · Lake Placid · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 2,492

I've seen Sliding Board but haven't climbed it .... I did wonder if an overnight camp close to the Snake Dike would be important to reduce the nasty hiking ...

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Gothics Arch is an interesting comparison. Not because of the details of the climbing itself, but rather because of how it matches the big picture: long strenuous hike to a long fairly easy slab climb in a mountain setting.   Could be good prep and fitness check for the long day out part of doing Snake Dike (though all aspects of Snake Dike are bigger).

Alex Fischer · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 864

Do the 5.7 variation on standard route at Whitehorse (the one that goes straight up instead of down and right to the brown spot). I've done that and snake dike, and I thought they were comparable. 5.7 friction above (but not too far above) your pro. And of course some easier/more secure climbing without pro.

Re: camping: do it in a day. I thought the hiking on snake dike was not too bad--mostly on trail and not too steep, with only a few sections that got steeper or off trail. It's a scenic hike, so you can take it slow and enjoy the views to distract yourself.

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

my guess is that Whitehorse will be much closer to rock type than Rojers rock though Rojers is a hoot.  Little finger is dead easy and sewn up so not a good training for runout friction. Screaming Meany and The matrix much better as is the rig just right of Little Finger.

Insert name · · Harts Location · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 59

Whitehorse or the longer slab routes in Crawford.

Although not super similar. Granite Slab and some runout would probably be the closest 

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

Across the Universe. 

Brian E · · New England · Joined Mar 2005 · Points: 363

Go hike Mount Washington then do the standard on Whitehorse. That’ll get you ready for it. 

Eli B · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 6,177

Recipe for an East Coast Snake Dike:

Stash bike at South Moat trailhead parking lot.
Park car at Diana's Baths.
Do a Moat Traverse.
Bike to Whitehorse.
Climb Sliding Board & Rap after P5.
Climb Standard Route or Beginners Route to the top.
Bike to car at Diana's Baths.
Add a pinch of salt or a squeeze of lemon to taste.

Ian Dibbs · · Lake Placid · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 2,492
Eli Bwrote:

Recipe for an East Coast Snake Dike:

Stash bike at South Moat trailhead parking lot.
Park car at Diana's Baths.
Do a Moat Traverse.
Bike to Whitehorse.
Climb Sliding Board & Rap after P5.
Climb Standard Route or Beginners Route to the top.
Bike to car at Diana's Baths.
Add a pinch of salt or a squeeze of lemon to taste.

Sounds like a very long, but not too "hard core" a day .... I also wondered if the steepness of the Snake Dike could be compared  to; first pitch of Catharsis at Poko  (ADK) or ... pitch 3 of Thin Air,  (Cathedral) 

Russ Keane · · Salt Lake · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 447

Go to North Carolina.

Spencer Ralston · · North Conway, NH · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 35

Recently climbed Snake Dike (memorial day) and I just did the Standard on White Horse. IMO Snake Dike has 2-3 moves on each of the first three 5.7 pitches that are very insecure and unnerving to a new trad/mulit pitch climber. Combine this with the fact a fall is 20-30 feet on the 5.7 pitches makes for some spicy head games. The Standard route gives some similar feeling but with more safety with short falls. Once you are pass the third pitch of Snake Dike it is a walk in the park. 12.5 hours car to car. 3 hour approach 4.5 hours from roping up to top of Half Dome, 30 minutes at the top and then 4 hours down. 

Crux is the cables, lots of people not knowing what they are doing, tired, hungry and dehydrated makes it a junk show. There are spots to filter water, about 2 hours in and with about an 1 hour to go, so bring stuff to filter and carry less weight on the climb.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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