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Shady Gunks climbs on a Monday

Original Post
Lyle M · · New Haven, Ct · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 588

Hey all. Would anyone mind sharing a general game plan for chasing the shade? I’ll be headed there on Monday and can’t think of how to avoid just suffering through the heat. Thanks in advance. 

J B · · Cambridge, MA · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 20

The wall faces south so you can find shade in right facing corners early in the day. The sooner you start the better. A good strategy is to begin around 5 and have a midday siesta around noon, beginning again around 3. If you're comfortable climbing at the edge of darkness, a few sunset pitches will be glorious this time of year 

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
J B wrote:

The wall faces south southeast so you can find shade in right left facing corners early in the day. The sooner you start the better. A good strategy is to begin around 5 and have a midday siesta around noon, beginning again around 3. If you're comfortable climbing at the edge of darkness, a few sunset pitches will be glorious this time of year 

Fixed that.

Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,580

Peterskill has tons of shady nooks, as does Lost City. 

Josh S · · Brooklyn, NY / Gunks · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 5

Just to add to what's been said above, if you're going to the Trapps/Nears, the whole cliff goes into the shade around 3pm...IMO the summer pro move is to get to the lot at 2 or 2:30 so you get to the base of your first climb just as it comes into shade. There's still enough light to climb until 8, so you can get a pretty full day.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Josh S wrote:

Just to add to what's been said above, if you're going to the Trapps/Nears, the whole cliff goes into the shade around 3pm...IMO the summer pro move is to get to the lot at 2 or 2:30 so you get to the base of your first climb just as it comes into shade. There's still enough light to climb until 8, so you can get a pretty full day.

Excellent advice. Plus, a lot of people are leaving by then because they're wiped out from climbing in the sun earlier in the day.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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