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Offwidth rescue effort resulting in chipping and drilling to extract climber

Original Post
Brian Poll · · Copenhagen, DK · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 121

So, I live in Europe, and apparently a climber needed to be rescued after getting “both knees stuck” in an offwidth (based on secondhand reports). They had to chop and drill away sections of the rock. This was in a relatively well accessible single pitch crag. 

It just got me thinking if something like this could have ever even happened in the Creek or Yosemite or somewhere. So, I was just wondering if anyone has any examples of a rescue effort that required chipping and drilling to extract a climber.

Klein VerHill · · Pittsburgh PA & northern India · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 4,962

There are offwidths in Europe?

Weston S · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

Is there a link to a story about it?

Presuming everything else was tried, it’s not like they’d leave someone to die there—so it would happen here too I think.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

There have been bolts installed ("drilling") to facilitate a rescue in the US. I forget which climb, but it was fairly recent.

T D · · Splatte · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 3,904

How the hell do you get both knees stuck in an offwidth?

Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Sideways invert, then slip slide  downward into a tighter constriction, most likely. Can you imagine, getting both knees stuck whilst hanging upside down???   Knee stack, less likely.   

Derek DeBruin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,129
FrankPSwrote:

There have been bolts installed ("drilling") to facilitate a rescue in the US. I forget which climb, but it was fairly recent.

This isn't all that uncommon. In certain locales a bolt kit is a standard part of the equipment load out.

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

I remember that in the early 90s a well known climber (Skinner, Mittendorf…?) got his knee stuck in a crack on the Great Trango and spent hours pounding pins around his knee to release it. 

Dan D · · Colorado · Joined May 2021 · Points: 17
Derek DeBruinwrote:

This isn't all that uncommon. In certain locales a bolt kit is a standard part of the equipment load out.

Here's an example in CCC
https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/112273152

Big Red · · Seattle · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,253

Shoulda left them there! For the ethics!

Jake woo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 2

Climber needs SAR to get out safely. SAR comes and does their job safely. Climbing community can keep climbing there. And there are people in that photo thread that are upset at some bolt holes? Since when did bolting ethics trump serious injury or death after an accident?

Thank you to all SAR personnel for what you do. please bolt my trad lines if you keep us alive and safe.

alpinist 47 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0
Frank Steinwrote:

I remember that in the early 90s a well known climber (Skinner, Mittendorf…?) got his knee stuck in a crack on the Great Trango and spent hours pounding pins around his knee to release it. 

British expedition ... Martin Boysen (hope spelling is correct)

Blood was the lubricant that finally set him free

Went back the next year and climbed the rte

Middendorf  is johns  last name ... Grand voyage was climbed by him and Xavier Bongard on Trango 

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205
alpinist 47wrote:

British expedition ... Martin Boysen (hope spelling is correct)

Blood was the lubricant that finally set him free

Went back the next year and climbed the rte

Middendorf  is johns  last name ... Grand voyage was climbed by him and Xavier Bongard on Trango 

That’s the one!

Brian Poll · · Copenhagen, DK · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 121
Weston Swrote:

Is there a link to a story about it?

Presuming everything else was tried, it’s not like they’d leave someone to die there—so it would happen here too I think.

No, it was pretty low key. Only heard through a local climbing club. Don’t think they wanted to draw unnecessary attention.

I believe it was a 5.10-something route. So presumably an OW novice. 

Matt Wetmore · · Lost Wages, NV · Joined May 2017 · Points: 565
Weston Swrote:

Is there a link to a story about it?

Presuming everything else was tried, it’s not like they’d leave someone to die there—so it would happen here too I think.

Not much of a story but: 8a.nu/news/drilled-out-afte…

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
FrankPSwrote:

There have been bolts installed ("drilling") to facilitate a rescue in the US. I forget which climb, but it was fairly recent.

Epi 

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

Surprised no one has posted this video yet:


curt86iroc · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 274
FrankPSwrote:

There have been bolts installed ("drilling") to facilitate a rescue in the US. I forget which climb, but it was fairly recent.

happens more often than you think..

https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/112273152

Alex Ghiggeri · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 115

Someone got their knee stuck on ruper in eldo..    they had to use a bunch of dish soap to free him.  A sign stood at the base of the approach for a while stating that it may be slippery.

Kyle H · · Squamish · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 1

SAR in Squamish drilled and chipped someone out of a relatively new climb called St Bernard recently. squamishchief.com/local-new…

Ol A Thousand Bananas · · Stockholm, SE · Joined Jun 2022 · Points: 0

The Swedish climbing association wrote an article about the incident:

https://www.klatterforbundet.se/2022/06/16/oskar-satt-fast-mer-an-sex-timmar-raddades-av-stenhuggande-brandman/

Obviously in Swedish, but Google translate should give you something.

One knee stuck (not both), and seems to have been well handled by everyone involved.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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