Shorter moderates in Yosemite NP

Me and my partner are heading to the valley next month and before we hop on Washington Column I was hoping to get on a handful of fun moderate routes around 5-6 pitches just to feel the valley out. It'll be my first time there and was hoping for a few suggestion on solid moderate lines to ease the nerves on. It also doesn't need to be explicitly in the valley but around the park. 

Specifically what grade is moderate to you? This varies so much for different people. 

all of them, all of the 5-6 pitch moderates are great.  just get the supertopo book and start ticking them off. or start with the classics list on MP.  Have fun waiting in line for all of them!

nutcracker, central pillar of frenzy, braille book, serenity to sons (harder and more like 8-9 pitches), arrowhead Arete (definitely a bigger day but fun) east buttress of middle (8-9 pitches but no wide stuff and you can link a lot of pitches but its a longer day.) reg route on cathedral spire

Sick thanks for the replies and that link. I'd say moderate is 10ish or under for me, been on MP over a decade and didn't know that existed.

Kevin's got you covered.  But low hanging fruit: basically anything at Manure Pile (Nutcracker, After 6, After 7, Commissioners Buttress, etc)

What specifically on the Column are you planning on climbing/getting ready for? 

Absolutely free and Commitment to Slaginella (sp?) are nuthin but fun (and crowded)

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

This answer could really help us narrow them down for you

In my post I mentioned Washington column. We're not totally sure which route yet.

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

Yeeeeeeah, we know you already mentioned Washington Column, that's kiiiiinda why we asked which route on Washington Column. 

Exactly, is it like Astroman, or the South Face? Two totally different objectives requiring two totally different skill sets.  

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

Yeeeeeeah, we know you already mentioned Washington Column, that's kiiiiinda why we asked which route on Washington Column. 

I mentioned that we're not totally sure, it'll depend on how packed they are. Probably either south face or skull queen. 

Alex Langfieldwrote:

Me and my partner are heading to the valley next month and before we hop on Washington Column I was hoping to get on a handful of fun moderate routes around 5-6 pitches just to feel the valley out. It'll be my first time there and was hoping for a few suggestion on solid moderate lines to ease the nerves on. It also doesn't need to be explicitly in the valley but around the park. 

The Valley isn't really near other climbing spots, except it's 1.5 hours to Tuolumne meadows. May can be fine or too hot. If it's cool, great. If not climb early in the day or chase the shade, or go up to Tuolumne if the road has opened (we're getting more snow so it may take a while to open it). The classic moderates (as mentioned, Nutcracker, Central Pillar of Frenzy, East Buttress of Middle Cathedral, Higher Cathedral Spire, Commitment>Selaginella) are all excellent but crowded. There's lot of other more obscure lines that are not as great but still fun and not crowded.

Higher Cathedral Spire Regular Route, After Six, After Seven, Munginella, The Commitment, Arrowhead Arete, Grack Center, Harry Daley Route, Entrance Exam, Regular Route Reeds Pinnacle, Knob Job, Snake Dike, Royal Arches, South Face North Dome, Lower Cathedral Spire, Kor Beck, Braille Book, Northeast Buttress Higher Rock, Nutcracker

Salamanizer Skiwrote:

What specifically on the Column are you planning on climbing/getting ready for? 

I misinterpreted what you said. I thought you said "What Column are you planning on climbing" lol. But yeah most likely south face or one of the variations. 

Alex Langfieldwrote:

I misinterpreted what you said. I thought you said "What Column are you planning on climbing" lol. But yeah most likely south face or one of the variations. 

Then moderate free climbs isn’t really what you should be looking for. Moderate to easy short aid routes is. South Face is easy as plug and go. It’s where people work the kinks out of hauling and basic aid technique. If you want something to help you get your confidence up for an entry level aid route, I would suggest a steep, non committing 3 or four pitch route with virtually no traffic you can get on and work your systems out.

Honestly, I’d just go for it. Those routes are basically plug and go. But if you must, I would suggest the Aid Route on Swan Slabs. Easy access, simple aid you can work your aid technique out on and zero commitment. Plus you can have a go on TR afterwards attempting to free climb it. 

I forgot to mention The Enigma, 5.9, at The Cookie Cliff