Sharks Fin - Wiggins Arete Free

@Fritz

Just out of curiosity... at what point in time will hardware on a route like this be modernized, or would the sketch hardware be replaced with more sketch hardware? And then if it was ever updated with 10ft glue ins, is the route forever lost to modernity where no one will ever experience what you've experienced again? 

Matthew Jaggerswrote:

@Fritz

Just out of curiosity... at what point in time will hardware on a route like this be modernized, or would the sketch hardware be replaced with more sketch hardware? And then if it was ever updated with 10ft glue ins, is the route forever lost to modernity where no one will ever experience what you've experienced again? 

It's my understanding that twenty years ago, Canyonlands NPS enacted a prohibition on installing fixed hardware. Violators can be fined an unspecified amount at the discretion of the NPS.

A similar regulation exists at a certain multipitch area that you and I have discussed at length, but I am much more satisfied with it there because 1) there are better gear options at anchors, 2) most routes do not conclude with a rappel and 3) the climbing rangers there are utterly righteous badasses.

Allegedly, it is possible to acquire a permit in Canyonlands to upgrade existing anchors after going through an extensive permit application. Until such a time, we will content ourselves with such niceties as these:

F r i t zwrote:

Thanks for the kind words, everyone.

Slim, you may not know this, but you were kind of a guiding light for me in desert climbing. The first Wingate route I ever touched in 2012 was the short rightfacing hands dihedral with a flake traverse topout, the route that you named in memory of your dog. As someone who spent a lot of time developing desert skills at that low-profile crag, I would pay close attention to your route comments. And of course the forum banter. Thanks for the inspiration over the years.

Dude, that's awesome. I didn't know that. I showed my wife your post and she happy-cried.

Pretty crazy reading some of the notes about the various sharkfin routes. As somebody who is known for climbing like a turtle, i feel somewhat vindicated

1. NPS.gov
2. Park Home
3. Learn About the Park
4. Management
5. Laws & Policies
6. Superintendent's Compendium

Superintendent's Compendium:

"No new permanent fixed anchors may be installed in any location, except by permit (Special Use Permit). If an existing bolt or other hardware item is unsafe, it may be replaced, without a permit."