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Captive chain glue ins

Original Post
Dan Bachen · · Helena, MT · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 1,413

Just had some anchors stolen from an area with easy top access and lots of non climber traffic. Rather than throw a bunch of money at the problem and have the hardware swiped again I’d like to figure out a more permanent solution. Bolt products makes a captive chain glue in which seems like a good solution. Unfortunately they are out of stock and I’d like to run longer chain to allow easy TR setup. Does anyone make a bolt that you can thread chain into before it’s glued in? Seems like U bolts would fit the bill but I’m only finding them in ti. 

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

The Bolt Products ones are out of stock because I haven't made them yet but they are on the list (and near the top!). You can have any length you want, some 600mm long including biners went to the US yesterday.

Dan Bachen · · Helena, MT · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 1,413

Thanks Jim, just sent the Team Tough folks an email.

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147

If you're curious about some other solutions, using this guy: https://www.backcountrygear.com/chain-draw-3-link-30-kn/

There are two levels of anti-theft you can do. 1) Red loctite and putting that bad boy on there super tight, and 2) getting that bad boy super tight and putting steel epoxy around the quicklink, which in my opinion now makes you responsible for future route maintenance as it will require an angle grinder or bolt cutter to remove. 

Not what you asked for but perhaps an easier solution to consider than U bolts. 

Shawn S · · Seattle WA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 2,363

Interesting, did someone undo hangers and or quicklinks with a wrench? 

Shawn S · · Seattle WA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 2,363

I tend to steer away from fully captive glue ins (Like these: Fixe Glue In with Double Ring) since replacing the captive rings would be more of a pain than a quicklink connection. I guess if someone is going at your anchors with a wrench then something super captive (no quicklink) would be best but if the perpetrator knows how to handle a wrench they likely know how to use a saw or hammer...

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, UT · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 22,969
Dan Bachen wrote:

Just had some anchors stolen from an area with easy top access and lots of non climber traffic. Rather than throw a bunch of money at the problem and have the hardware swiped again I’d like to figure out a more permanent solution.

Move them to a non-easy access location.  Then try to hide them...camo.  You could also install them with a lap link or a link with rivets (peen the rivets).  But, someone might still mess with them.

That, or just remove them altogether and use a removable top anchor from a more distant location (tree, stack of rocks, etc, a discreet set of anchors under a flat rock, etc) and extend the anchor as far as needed with a static line, etc.

Or, leave the hangers and plan on using a set of draws or removable anchor.

Easy access in a location with a lot of non climber traffic sounds like an endless problem unless you (re)move the anchor.

Carson Mc · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 25

Stake the threads on the wedge bolts and dimple the quick link collar. Neither affects the load rating and it only requires a center punch and a hammer. Never seen it done on a climbing anchor, but it's pretty standard for safety related installation in industry. 

Dan Bachen · · Helena, MT · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 1,413

Fortunately this hasn’t been a past issue and I think the location of the anchors is a good balance between TR folks being able to get to the hangers but not having to add an excessive length of chain to get the draws to hang free over the lip. I’ve thought about modifying the bolts/adding epoxy or other similar substance to make unscrewing the hangers hard/impossible. At that point it seems like glueins are a more elegant solution. Also planning to add hooks or rings to the ends (red loctite on the ql) so that chain wear is less of an issue. Even if these get snagged the anchor is still functional and we would just need to get the end hardware back up. Appreciate the suggestions. 

timothy fisher · · CHARLOTTE · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 30

Pigtails can be a good option for the wear point. If clamped after instal, not easilly pillfered.

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147

I cannot comment on what may be appropriate for any given situation, but I had some anchors disappear even when tightened down with a wrench, but they've stayed now with the epoxied quicklinks. Lots of people have adjustable wrenches, not so many people want to bring out bolt cutters or an angle grinder is what I reckon is going on. 

I thought it was kids who hang out at the rock, but another one disappeared which was inaccessible except to climbers, so maybe it was climbers that took both of them, who knows. But steel stick epoxy ended up being a solution both times. 

Don't know if it's a serious solution here, but it may be. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
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