Sandia Mountains 4/8

Hello! Looking for someone who’s interested in getting on easy trad - with a preference for multipitch - in the Sandias. Would be my first time there, so I’m open to suggestion, though the Northwest Ridge of the Thumb looks interesting. Let me know if you have questions or would like to meet up.

Patch

312-945-7781

You’ll find plenty of snow up there in the trees right now and will want microspikes for approaches/descents. It’s also generally 20 degrees colder up there than down in town. The elevation at the top is 10,600ft.

I have not yet ventured into the upper Sandias for climbing but am going to checkout Lower La Cueva Canyon on Sunday to see if the snow/ice is gone at  Gemstone. This area is at the bottom of the mountain just north of the Tram parking lot.

Anna, snow in lower la Cueva up past gemstone has been gone for a while. If you want to come after work today let me know, we are just 2 teams of 2 but one guy dropped out and so one girl doesn't have a partner.

North aspects like the approach to the sheild and in the trees at the top is still present but nothing deeper than knees. 

Hi Luke,

Can’t get there today but please post an updated conditions report for Lower La Cueva if you think about it. My friend was at Revenge two weeks ago and found there to be too much ice/wet on the route to climb. They went to Flake & Bake instead. What are you guys climbing today?

How’s the ice at the top in the trees? Have you already climbed up high? Which route(s)?

Anna, thanks for the info.
Really, I’d be happy to get on anything in the easy to moderate range that doesn’t require snow/ice gear. I’m from Minnesota, but I left that stuff at home! I’m heading to Albuquerque from Flagstaff this morning, so could possibly climb this afternoon and definitely tomorrow all day. 

Anna - we climbed the Knife Edge of the Shield on Saturday - the route was mostly dry, but there were patches of snow all the way up, even before the start of the 4th class. From the top of the knife edge to North Peak was knee to waist deep snow. The crest trail was covered in snow, packed down but enough to make those last two miles significantly harder.

We eyeballed the approach down into Pinnacle Valley and Chimney Canyon from above - both of those looked like waist deep snow.

The Pino trail was packed ice for the first mile or so from the ridgeline down. I'd assume La Luz is also packed ice a good way down the rockslide.

Big block has no snow, but there is still a lot of mud at the base of the climbing wall.

Was there snow on the Palomas approach Sunday?

Greg,
Hayden said it was deep up there! That was a good education for him. Had to be challenging getting to the parking lot.

There was snow at Palomas on the initial traverse but all very passable and no post-holing. No snow beyond the first half mile I’d say and the temps were perfect. It’s absolutely Palomas season right now. 

Patch,
You’re probably best off sport climbing this visit. The Sandias are not quite in season just yet.

Send me a message if you need a place to park when you arrive. You can use my driveway. 

I was climbing the Sandias today.  Approach shoes are fine for Upper La Cueva Canyon.  Good Luck.

Dow,
Thank you for the conditions report. Some questions… What route(s) did you get on? Was there ice on the trail down from the crest parking lot? How was the rock temperature when you first started climbing? 

George, you rock!! This is a huge help.

We got slammed by cold winds, overcast skies, and also enjoyed the deep snow in the shade on the descent a few years ago on the Thumb this time of year. Definitely look to Anna for advice on this. We hate-climbed the route anyway, because we were hard headed and did not want to drive home empty handed.

Tim, I highly suggest a return trip to experience the Sandias in warmer weather. Is this the Thumb climb you told me about or a second one?

Anna Brownwrote:

Tim, I highly suggest a return trip to experience the Sandias in warmer weather. Is this the Thumb climb you told me about or a second one?

It's the one I told you about just below the Crest.