Petzl Evolve Adjust & Aid Climbing...Anyone Try it?

For what it is worth, I tried to re-thread with the 8mm Beal Rando rope. It fed beautifully and slipped right through when I weighted it   

Cheers from Osaka,

John 

John Shultzwrote:

For what it is worth, I tried to re-thread with the 8mm Beal Rando rope. It fed beautifully and slipped right through when I weighted it   

Cheers from Osaka,

John 

hmm i have a mammut 8mm half rope in mine and it works great

Would love to hear what cord works the best. Does it need to be a dynamic line?  Looks like Tyler is using a 7mm Sterling static cord. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2N9SfYTv8fY

timtamtimwrote:

Would love to hear what cord works the best. Does it need to be a dynamic line?  Looks like Tyler is using a 7mm Sterling static cord. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2N9SfYTv8fY

static works. i like having it be dynamic incase i take a daisy whip. static could be nice for daisy bounce testing though but I rarely do this. it is such a short length of cord though that I don't notice the dynamic properties when aiding or jugging 

John Shultzwrote:

For what it is worth, I tried to re-thread with the 8mm Beal Rando rope. It fed beautifully and slipped right through when I weighted it   

Cheers from Osaka,

John 

Don't want to be a dick... but are you sure you threaded it the right way round? I was messing around with mine, trying different ropes/cords in it and got confused because all of a sudden it stopped working with ropes it had been working with before - was because I had threaded it the wrong way round, which at first glance looks pretty similar to the right way round. When I had it threaded the right way round it held me with down to 4mm cord! Not that I'd want to actually use 4mm, but it was confidence inspiring.

Fell Overwrote:

Don't want to be a dick... but are you sure you threaded it the right way round? I was messing around with mine, trying different ropes/cords in it and got confused because all of a sudden it stopped working with ropes it had been working with before - was because I had threaded it the wrong way round, which at first glance looks pretty similar to the right way round. When I had it threaded the right way round it held me with down to 4mm cord! Not that I'd want to actually use 4mm, but it was confidence inspiring.

Haha. Reasonable question. 

Yes, I have it the right way around. If you do it the wrong way it doesn't grip at all. This is a slow creep, when I hang all my body weight without my feet touching anything. 

I wonder if the dimensions of the device have changed over time, as I swear the older ones had thinner chord. Mine came with something about 9.8 mm. Also, John's quote above from Andy K. suggested that the factory chord was too short, the one it comes with now will be a bit too long for folks 6 feet or under. 

John Shultzwrote:

Haha. Reasonable question. 

Yes, I have it the right way around. If you do it the wrong way it doesn't grip at all. This is a slow creep, when I hang all my body weight without my feet touching anything. 

I wonder if the dimensions of the device have changed over time, as I swear the older ones had thinner chord. Mine came with something about 9.8 mm. Also, John's quote above from Andy K. suggested that the factory chord was too short, the one it comes with now will be a bit too long for folks 6 feet or under. 

Odd, I aid with 7mm static cord in my adjusts and it works flawlessly. 

John Godinowrote:

Andy Kirkpatrick says:

"At the moment my big wall rig is the Petzl Evolv Adjust tied into a Petzl Micro Swivel connected to a belay loop on my harness (I have two belay loops), using a much longer length of 8.5 mm rope. Connecting it via the swivel means it never gets tangled and allows me to get much tighter to my pieces (the Micro is attached via Allen key)."

Anyone else uses this set up ? Seems pretty slick... any downsides ? I hate untwisting ladders, i feel like with the swivel you could just not think about it and clip any ladders on any side of your harness and it would always untangle by itself... seems like a pretty good idea..

I am also interested to hear your thoughts on the micro swivel. I have used it before for my daisies and it worked really well. I remember it being rated pretty strong and my cords never tangled. Without it, undoing a tangle is super fast and not a big problem IMO, but it saves a little time. I use my evolvs (swapped out with sterling 7mm cord) as a PAS on walls, any concerns with having this extra link and potential failure point? Cheers