Totem cams are ruining climbing.

I think all modern climbing equipment invented after the FA of a route is aid. Climbing shouldn't be safe. That's why I climb exclusively with ropes from Home Depot and homemade pitons. A lot of people get angry at me when they see me nailing the eldorado canyon moderate classics, but they don't understand how climbing works there. I'm the one respecting the ethics of the first ascensionists, not them. The hierarchy of climbing eliteness is layed out below:

1. Free soloing

2. Climbing with ropes not rated for climbing and pitons 

3. Climbing with passive gear only

4.  Climbing with regular cams

5. Sport climbing

6. Bouldering

7. Climbing with totems

I think bouldering would be up there near free soloing as far as purity goes doncha think? Well, if groomed landings, rolled over boulders, smashed bushes and excessive chalk weren’t a thing. I guess that would put it just below all clean gear (Trad) routes. 

I popped a blue totem cam once and it made me reconsider any amount of competence I ever thought I had. 

Nick Hillwrote:

I think all modern climbing equipment invented after the FA of a route is aid. Climbing shouldn't be safe. That's why I climb exclusively with ropes from Home Depot and homemade pitons. A lot of people get angry at me when they see me nailing the eldorado canyon moderate classics, but they don't understand how climbing works there. I'm the one respecting the ethics of the first ascensionists, not them. The hierarchy of climbing eliteness is layed out below:

1. Free soloing

2. Climbing with ropes not rated for climbing and pitons 

3. Climbing with passive gear only

4.  Climbing with regular cams

5. Sport climbing

6. Bouldering

7. Climbing with totems

Dry tool aid soloing has gotta be on here somewhere above bouldering surely 

You are correct sir. Ever done a hard mantle without a rope? Way more hardcore! Why should anyone use ropes?

The only active gear I own is ballnuts.  Does that put me at tier 3 or 4 on Nick's list?

what if i bring totems but free solo?  too gumby?

I bought a set of totems and now I can climb 5.14

Anyone want to come over for a game of croquette? 

One of my partners is old enough to have a guidebook that talks about a new invention called “friends” that is making climbing so much easier. The author recommends each climber takes into consideration how this new invention changes the climb and it’s ethics and decides for themselves if they want to use them. 

5/10 troll attempt. Kind of like having 2/4 lobes of a Totem catch your fall. 

clee 03mwrote:

One of my partners is old enough to have a guidebook that talks about a new invention called “friends” that is making climbing so much easier. The author recommends each climber takes into consideration how this new invention changes the climb and it’s ethics and decides for themselves if they want to use them. 

If you get the chance, could you post up that page? That sounds like an incredibly refreshing perspective that is very much relevant today. 

Some of my early climbing partners made large tube chocks and giant " tri cams"  out milled aluminum,  for wide cracks.

Rocrates may be a Totem salesman. Some guy saying they are basically so well designed and safe that they turn trad routes into bolt ladders is definitely a ringing endorsement.

Just get on harder, dicier climbs. Overestimate the totems all you want, a Totem on 2 lobes still isn't actually a safe placement. Find shallow cracks you normally wouldn't think on climbing on gear, put those 2 lobes in as best you can, and commit.

You talk a good game with all that risk-taking bravado, but do you actually walk the walk?

Franck Veewrote:

Just get on harder, dicier climbs. Overestimate the totems all you want, a Totem on 2 lobes still isn't actually a safe placement. Find shallow cracks you normally wouldn't think on climbing on gear, put those 2 lobes in as best you can, and commit.

You talk a good game with all that risk-taking bravado, but do you actually walk the walk?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TWGsxff0RB0 

So... imagine what you'd climb with Totems now!

One way that totems ruin climbing, maybe just a teeny weeny bit, is that I seem to be seeing rather a lot of them stuck and abandoned on routes. They usually look amazingly trashed after all the folks who tried to booty them, but failed due to the unusual holding power (or possibly the flimsiness of the extra lightweight components?) In this condition, they are an unsightly detraction from an otherwise aesthetic experience. Additionally, a stuck (undamaged) totem is a grievous source of disappointment when I cannot budge it and take it home with me....

knees weak, arms are heavy

vomit on my R1 aready, Mountain House spaghetti

I'm gripped, but on the surface I seem calm and steady

fingerlocks and I can go on forgettin

what I placed low, behind that crystal prow

the crack flares now but I know the Totem won't come out

My fingers blowin', how, the topo sandbagged now

the rope's run out, held up, Totems, wow!

-- Lose Your Shoes, by M&Ms (While Belaying)

(Ben Podborski, Feb 2022)

Risk is choice. If you want the ultimate risk, solo. Personally, I hope I never have to rely on them but if I do I hope my cams are in good working condition. I’ve got 6 amazing smiles to come home to.