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A threefold cord is not quickly broken
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Anchors are aid |
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If someone would be so Kind as to Clean this up to posts that pertain to anchors I’d Appreciate it! Thanks Have a Great day and GOD Bless, Colin McCurdy 2 Corinthians 2:14-17 |
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Last week Chongo Chuck was hanging out with us at J-tree. Between pancakes, coffee and frequent toots on Gabriel's horn, everyone was having a good time ... until I took off my jacket and he saw my Luther Rose tattoo. He immediately demanded an explanation for all the Greek, Hebrew and Latin on my arms, and when he found out that I didn't adhere to his peculiarly religious brand of atheism, he became furious. "If I had known you were a creationist, I never would've talked to you!" (Assumption sic). He then took his toys and went home, uttering imprecations and invectives against my narrowmindedness all the way. Moral of the story is, don't overthink your anchors or your epistemology so much that you don't actually use them in real life. |
F r i t zwrote: I think it was on the 9th day that God said, “no extension is more important than equalization.” On the 10th day, he talked about bolts versus trad gear. |
K Cwrote: ... and saw that it was good. |
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I went to Catholic schools and was always taught by the nuns that he cast bolts down with Satan (Very traditional, nuns are. |
Mark Pilatewrote: Whereas tricams are the earthly manifestation of the doctrine of the Trinity. |
F r i t zwrote: As three points of contact is the physical manifestation of the holy trinity, two points of contact - duality, one point of contact - singularity, and dynos are the devil |
Chris Nunleywrote: Verily. And aid climbing is the path to salvation -- take your burdens and nail them to the crux. |
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Glad to hear Chongo is still kicking! Matthew 26:52 |
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To go solo without partner is to defy His Devine Plan. Honnold 5:12 |
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Thou shall not covet thy neighbor’s shoe quiver, thou shall not covet thy neighbor’s totems, nor his C3s, nor his pink tricam, nor his petzel wiregates, nor anything that is on thy neighbor’s rack. Moosejaw 20:17 |
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Acts 26:18 So I looked up a double figure 8 that’s something else... if you want to tie a double figure 8 here you go... Now if anyone is seriously thinking about Best Anchor practices... If anyone is ever reading this and actually trying to Learn... I’d advise serious caution with information gathered on open forms... there’s a lot of flat out erroneous information... whether it’s people trying to influence the market, people who just aren’t qualified or are just flagrantly spewing junk... then there is undoubtedly Good information this stuff seems pertinent... Here’s a instance where someone is actually advocating for equalization... probably something that you already understand... maybe not... There’s been a fair amount of scoffers that have already reared their heads... remember some else’s Life Is potentially hanging in the balance... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fULkjdyPx8Y&list=PLajYFniMZtJhy8mzwJxy-ikK3-_BJQ4q0&index=9 here’s a Real Life scenario to consider... your on a high traffic route and approaching another party... perhaps they just departed a belay station and are flustered because your pushing on them... something happens they drop a piece of gear, dislodge something, fall... something... make a load clamor... yell out heads! So you duck off to the side. simultaneously your follower hears the clamor, is alarmed and subsequently falls... because you changed your stance ever so slightly and because your anchor is a run of the mill just like everyone else’s anchor... everything is loaded onto just one piece of gear... Here is a lab test of massive extension and extreme loads being placed on slings that’s far exceeds any scenario you’ll encounter in Real Life https://dmmwales.com/knowledge/september-2013/slings-at-anchors then I found that the shock loads actually being transmitted to the gear in this test interesting... https://dmmwales.com/knowledge/june-2010/how-to-break-nylon-dyneema®-slings apart from distant alpine type scenarios where I’m only taking a partial rack I’ll be using nylon cord... all because of the information gleaned in this test... just because everyone is using dyneema for their anchors or using normal anchors doesn’t necessarily make it the Best practice... Then there is the strength of knotted dyneema compared to nylon, illustrated here with 6mm cord... https://edelrid.com/int-en/knowledge/knowledge-base/strength-reduction-of-textile-materials-by-knots personally I’d just look at the charts in the write up... the tests are all slow pulls that have little to do with climbing... if all you look at is the rating numbers written on your tags you might want to reconsider... the knot that your going to have to put into the sling in order to create a Anchor will have a sizable impact... almost negating the seeming added strength of dyneema... bring in the lack of stretch of dyneema or tech cord and the added stress on your anchor points into the equation... Truth is the highest loads potentially being generated would be by you in a hypothetical leader fall... with a JESUS piece in and a dynamic rope any single piece of gear should be able to handle... However there aren’t advocates of single piece Anchors and since your going to have multiple pieces the load should be distributed... your Anchor still needs to be Sure and Steadfast... if it goes your both going... now think about this... the direction of load placed on your Anchor once you transition to lead will most likely be completely different then the direction of load that it was originally built for... perhaps the thought process of... this is how everyone does it... this is just how it’s always been done... needs to be thought through On what Anchor Isaiah 28:16 |
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Place good pieces and tie yourself to them. (that includes multi-directional for at least 1 which seems to be your main concern) |
Tradiban wrote: ..... may save you, chances are he won't as he's dead already. |
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Pray harder and just free solo. You do believe in His divine plan, right? |
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2 Corinthians 5:15 Romans 10:9-11 |
