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New River Gorge vs. RRG

Original Post
Haydon Koch · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 0

Trying to plan a trip in the spring (probably in May) and deciding between the New and the Red. Driving from Atlanta so about an hour difference. Which would be a better option just purely out of how many quality routes we'd be able to get onto (b/c of crowds, amount of routes, area size, approach, etc.)? Was planning on sport only and probably 5.9-5.11. 

Noah Betz · · Beattyville, KY · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 49

At that grade range I would go for The Red over The New, but you really can’t go wrong with either. 

Choss Wrangler · · Elkview, WV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 75

The RRG is a better option. More climbs at those grades and if it rains you'll have way more options at the RRG than at the New. 

David Smith · · Huntington, WV · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 7

Red is the Best!

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jun 2021 · Points: 170

Go to the Red.

Notapplicable · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 130
Jake Jones wrote:

Go to the Red.

This is correct. Everyone should always go to the red. 100% the better option.

Peter BrownWhale · · Randallstown, MD · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 21

The style is very different, personally I much prefer The New.  At the grades you are talking about however, The Red will have many more options

Schuyler Baer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 38

Like everyone else said, the red probably has more options at those grades, but probably also has more crowds. Not really sure which is better when taking that into account, but you really can't go wrong either way. 

Brandon Ribblett · · The road · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 80

Tbh I would pick which one has better weather. May can be iffy weather wise (too hot, too rainy, etc)

Tyler Barnes · · Boone, NC · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 116

I'll echo that the Red will have more in that grade range, particularly 5.9 to 5.10-. But the New has plenty of amazing 5.10-5.11 climbing. You might consider what style you prefer. Generally, the Red is steep and power endurance focused while the New might be considered more technical with boulder problems leading to decent rests. 

Matthew Massey · · South Charleston, WV · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 5

Definitely go to the Red, the New sucks. Don't go. 

Bryan L · · VA · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 257

How long are you going for? If for a week or more split your time between both, not like it's that far from one to the other. That said, I much prefer the New as I find the style of climbing at the New to be more interesting.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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