Best Sport Route Per Grade

Fern Gullywrote:

Playin hooky (clear creek) 5.9 

This is 5.8

Grug Mwrote:

Pretty surprised to see clear creek canyon show up twice on that list to be honest, but those two climbs are definitely very nice.

Nathaniel Ferg wrote:

Bibliographie would be a much more classic 15d in the usual sense of something being a classic. You could make similar arguments that La Dura Dura is not as great as Move, Change, or Perfecto Mundo. 

Well this aged poorly. 

Nathaniel Fwrote:

Bibliographie would be a much more classic 15d in the usual sense of something being a classic. You could make similar arguments that La Dura Dura is not as great as Move, Change, or Perfecto Mundo. 

I disagree. I would consider The Cornucopia as more of a classic at that grade. 

I may be biased, but “Shagg It” at 12d is pretty amazing, as well as “Ginseng” at 12b/c is downright perfect.  Both in Western Maine.

Jon Zuccowrote:

This is 5.8

The first pitch is 5.9. This makes the climb 5.9 no? 

Fern Gullywrote:

The first pitch is 5.9. This makes the climb 5.9 no? 

It's all subjective I guess, but I didn't think the first pitch was 5.9 and the consensus for the route is 5.8. However I do see in the description that P1 is given a 5.9 rating, so in conclusion: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

TravisJBurkewrote:

My personal list (extremely subjective, subject to change at any moment, and based on both movement and experience):

5.5  - Egg, Riffelberg, Matterhorn Area, Switzerland

5.6 - Led by Sheep, Zion, UT

5.7 - Can't really think of any...

5.8 - The Mellow Route at Gruner Pfiler, Kallmunz, DEU

5.9 - Prime Rib, Goat Wall, WA (for the sheer fun of all those mellow pitches)

5.10a - Carrots for Everyone, Ozone, OR

5.10b - Wanniger, Hundskopf, Kallmunz, DEU

5.10c - BBQ the Pope or Gumby, Smith, OR (because of the sandbags)

5.10d - The Devil Wears Spurs, Wild Iris, WY

5.11a - Three way tie! Goldilocks, Donner, CA; Heaven's Gate, Index, WA; Akku, Weisenstein, Frankenjura, DEU - all so good with good memories...

5.11b - Maraton, Donaudaubruch, DEU or Fuzzy Undercling, RRG, KY

5.11c - Yaak Crack, Red Rocks, NV (onsighting a jerk's project...)

5.11d - Ring of Fire, Smith, OR or Where the Wild Things Roam, Madrone, OR...different styles, both fun

5.12a - Back in the High Life, Traingleturm, Prunn, DEU and Wind and Rattlesnakes, Wild Iris, WY

5.12b - Super Mickey, Ceuse, FRA

5.12c - Penguin Lust, Donner, CA

5.12d - Dirtbag, Hundskopf, Kallmunz, DEU

5.13a - Ton-Ton, Pig Rock, NV (still unsent after the hold breakage and now harder...)

5.13b - Corpus Delicti, Keilstein, Altmuthal, DEU (unsent...yet?)

Can't speak to anything more after this...

Has ton-ton really still not been sent? Was the pocket always drilled out? I found a kneescum that I think would make it go last season.

Also it isn't the most classic 13a, not even the most classic within 1hr of Reno. Warp factor is much more aesthetic and climbs much better.

Having climbed a decent amount in the desert southwest (with trips to other mountain west locations) before moving back east, I want to balance out this list with three Rumney climbs, all of which are better than anything I’ve done at their respective grades anywhere else:

Waimea, 10d

Flying Hawaiian, 11b

Technosurfing, 12b (although Slap My Fro at the Winslow Wall is probably equally good)

Connor Dobsonwrote:

Has ton-ton really still not been sent? Was the pocket always drilled out? I found a kneescum that I think would make it go last season.

Also it isn't the most classic 13a, not even the most classic within 1hr of Reno. Warp factor is much more aesthetic and climbs much better.

Oh, ton ton has definitely been sent since the breakage--I believe Doug heard 13b/c floating around?--but the second question actually affects the first.  Yes, during the 80s/90s Doug drilled out deeper the initial pocket (I could ask, but will likely forget). Sometime in late 2000/2010s, I believe Tommy broke off the crimp that initiated movement into the pocket. Thus, this was the initial breakage -- which I believe was sent...a bit back, I was in Reno and Doug and I went to Pig to discover major chipping/hold enhancement on at least Plant Food, Dentist, and some on Ton Ton--there's a few new holds that may bring the crux down to where it was at .13a. (Don't know who is the culprit, but Plant Food saw the worst of it...now maybe 11c over the top cuz of the lack of pump...)

Unsent means I have yet to send...Ton Ton is my favorite because of multiple factors--early winter mornings at Pig, being some of the few "all-season" rock climbers, the nasty tech moves up to the rest, the dual gaston move across, the heartbreaker ending, quintessential Nevada landscape, and all the work I put into it before life got in the way...Plus, it's great hard climbing.  Warp Factor is cool (and I always felt a little soft for 13a...esp after living here in the Franken, but full disclosure: I haven't been on it in decades) but it doesn't outrank Ton Ton for me personally...

Eureka for the best 5.6 in the Red River Gorge is just spectacular no matter what level of climber you are l. Every move is just the biggest jug ever and the movement while very easy is just such a blast.

TravisJBurkewrote:

Oh, ton ton has definitely been sent since the breakage--I believe Doug heard 13b/c floating around?--but the second question actually affects the first.  Yes, during the 80s/90s Doug drilled out deeper the initial pocket (I could ask, but will likely forget). Sometime in late 2000/2010s, I believe Tommy broke off the crimp that initiated movement into the pocket. Thus, this was the initial breakage -- which I believe was sent...a bit back, I was in Reno and Doug and I went to Pig to discover major chipping/hold enhancement on at least Plant Food, Dentist, and some on Ton Ton--there's a few new holds that may bring the crux down to where it was at .13a. (Don't know who is the culprit, but Plant Food saw the worst of it...now maybe 11c over the top cuz of the lack of pump...)

Unsent means I have yet to send...Ton Ton is my favorite because of multiple factors--early winter mornings at Pig, being some of the few "all-season" rock climbers, the nasty tech moves up to the rest, the dual gaston move across, the heartbreaker ending, quintessential Nevada landscape, and all the work I put into it before life got in the way...Plus, it's great hard climbing.  Warp Factor is cool (and I always felt a little soft for 13a...esp after living here in the Franken, but full disclosure: I haven't been on it in decades) but it doesn't outrank Ton Ton for me personally...

Pig rock def is a cool place. The ease of winter TRS is amazing. That crimp before the pocket is definitely desperate and the flake moves down low are a treat. Always cool to learn more back story on things. :)

Although I will say something being soft probably adds to being a classic, it's what the people want, soft "a" grades ;)

5.3 clip a dee doo dah - rumney 

This would be much more interesting if it was best sport route per grade, per state, because very few of us have the diversity of climbing experience necessary to give this a real answer.

Daniel Chode Riderwrote:

This would be much more interesting if it was best sport route per grade, per state, because very few of us have the diversity of climbing experience necessary to give this a real answer.

This is actually a valid point. 

I’ve spend a lot of time in the Northeast and Southeast. This is my list: 

5.6 Eureka RRG

5.7 After all this Time Rumney

5.8 Metamorphosis Rumney 

5.9  Smokestack Rumney

5.10a Lonesome Dove Rumney

5.10b The Great Escape Shagg Crag

5.10c Lightning Rod Arete RRG

5.10d Blaze of Glory Clifton Maine

5.11a Legacy NRG

5.11b Flying Hawaiian Rumney

5.11c High Roller Rumney

5.11d Under the Milkyway NRG

5.12a Too Many Puppies RRG

5.12b Magic Kingdom Marble Caves CA

5.12c Orange Juice RRG

5.12d The FishScale Acadia 

5.13a Transatlantic Acadia 

5.13b Dragon Fish Acadia

For me, aesthetics, exposure and rock quality are the key components. I only listed routes I’ve sent. Over that Hydra, Maniac and Mango Tango would top the list to 14a. Apparently I like Rumney a lot. 

Best as of 1986 SoCal

5.7  Double Cross

5.8  Walk on the wild side

5.9  ZZZZZ

10a  Solid Gold  or 10 Carat Gold

10b  Figures on a Landscape or Run for your life or Sundance

10c  EBGBs

10d  Fred

11a  Such a Savage or Valhalla

11b  Rebolting Development

tom donnellywrote:

Best as of 1986 SoCal

5.7  Double Cross

5.8  Walk on the wild side

5.9  ZZZZZ

10a  Solid Gold  or 10 Carat Gold

10b  Figures on a Landscape or Run for your life or Sundance

10c  EBGBs

10d  Fred

11a  Such a Savage or Valhalla

11b  Rebolting Development

I know double cross has a bolt (sometimes) but I don't think these are all sport routes ;) 

Are you restricting this to just the US? (The OP didn't say...) If not, I'll offer these (I can't pick just one):

12b: Jungle King, Thakhek.

12c: Orange Juice, RRG. Or Mandragora, Siurana.

12d: Priapos, Kalymnos. Jesus Wept, RRG.

13a: Le Privilège du Serpent, Céüse. Or Cool Like Dat, Adirondacks. Or Coeur De Lion, Lions Head.

13b: Los Fabulosos Cadillacs, Piedra Parada. Or Ayotzinapa 43, El Salto. Or Camino Del Chino, La Boca. Or Knock Out, Tersanas Cave.

jessie briggswrote:

I’ve spend a lot of time in the Northeast and Southeast. This is my list: 

5.6 Eureka RRG

5.7 After all this Time Rumney

5.8 Metamorphosis Rumney 

5.9  Smokestack Rumney

5.10a Lonesome Dove Rumney

5.10b The Great Escape Shagg Crag

5.10c Lightning Rod Arete RRG

5.10d Blaze of Glory Clifton Maine

5.11a Legacy NRG

5.11b Flying Hawaiian Rumney

5.11c High Roller Rumney

5.11d Under the Milkyway NRG

5.12a Too Many Puppies RRG

5.12b Magic Kingdom Marble Caves CA

5.12c Orange Juice RRG

5.12d The FishScale Acadia 

5.13a Transatlantic Acadia 

5.13b Dragon Fish Acadia

For me, aesthetics, exposure and rock quality are the key components. I only listed routes I’ve sent. Over that Hydra, Maniac and Mango Tango would top the list to 14a. Apparently I like Rumney a lot. 

Fishscale is a strong choice