El Cap Report 9/20/21 - a call for New Climbers!

Yo Yo Yo - pretty incredible in Yosemite right now. Some haze, but mostly blissful temps, no crowds, and wide open Stones. 

Lurking Fear: A couple co-ed teams have been working on this beast......should be having fun.

Salathe: I saw a team on Freeblast and a team climb up to the Ear, quiet

Nose: No one. One set of lines to Sickle. The greatest route in the world wide open and the weather's perfect, so sad!

Zodiac: watched a team topout, which left the route totally empty

I know there are barriers to getting on the Big Stones, but post them up so we can help you with them. For sure, if there are able bodied folks out there not pursuing your dreams because of financial limitations - we can help with that. I'm waiting to get knee surgery right now, so won't be climbing for a couple months, and have everything you need to style the Big Stone just sitting around collecting dust - if you need gear hit me up erik@yosemitebigwall.com

Woot Woot! E

Yosemitebigwall.com

Erik Sloanwrote:

I know there are barriers to getting on the Big Stones, but post them up so we can help you with them. For sure, if there are able bodied folks out there not pursuing your dreams because of financial limitations - we can help with that. I'm waiting to get knee surgery right now, so won't be climbing for a couple months, and have everything you need to style the Big Stone just sitting around collecting dust - if you need gear hit me up erik@yosemitebigwall.com

Erik gets a lot of criticism on Mountain Project and, regardless of whether or not you think that criticism is justified, this is a pretty generous and sincere offer. So, props to him. Sorry to hear about your surgery but hope your knee heals up soon!

Chris Bwrote:

Erik gets a lot of criticism on Mountain Project and, regardless of whether or not you think that criticism is justified, this is a pretty generous and sincere offer. So, props to him. Sorry to hear about your surgery but hope your knee heals up soon!

I'm not normally one to be so cynical. and i'm sure Eric is a great guy.

but you have to wonder what the motivation is behind the consistent push for others to come to the center of the universe. It reminds me of a certain textile company Patagonia and their unrelenting effort to 'protect' while also destroying the outdoors.

in short i suspect it is in his best interests to encourage others to come and partake. As his investment and livelihood depend on your purchase of his latest efforts published in his most recent guide book. Albeit a nice and well done work.

in short, follow the money. Yvon and Rose didn't build a billion dollar company for nothing.

jcs

I didn't realize Patagonia was "destroying" the outdoors. Sounds very serious. I'm sure you wouldn't exaggerate.

FrankPSwrote:

I didn't realize Patagonia was "destroying" the outdoors. Sounds very serious. I'm sure you wouldn't exaggerate.

Of course not without your or my consumption / purchase of their product.

A billion Frank. 1 B I L L I O N clams. the massive manufacturing of textiles for an outdoor company to achieve this should be mind bending for us. it should give one pause.

i hope i'm wrong.

jcs

No good deed goes unpunished. 

Here, you can borrow my portaledge. Wanna buy a guidebook?

AH HAH! Follow the money. Patagonia! Textiles! Murder of the outdoors! Oh and a billion dollars, just like guidebook money...

Brilliant, live and work in the Valley while the money rolls in from guidebook sales!

To get back to Erik's offer, I can vouch that he's an extremely generous and welcoming dude. I borrowed some gear to make a go up the big stone and we hugely appreciated it. 

The whole knee surgery thing is a ruse while Erik is out on his yacht partying with other guide book authors, runway models, and Donald Trump. 

Lol, so loving this thread....Jack, please talk to the guidebook authors where you live and report back about the substantial income they report, lol.....bottom line is El Cap is empty and super sad that us Humans can't figure out how to get up there. Infinity awaits I promise! 

(some folks staying at the Lodge were talking about taking Mushrooms tonight and going out to look at the climbers lights on El Cap. I took a peek when I drove by after work at 10pm and the Moonlight was amazing, but everyone was asleep)....I"m sure they saw something super, super cool, haha!

Tony L - rumor has it T. Brady's company got a PPE loan last year and bought a 900 thousand dollar yacht....but after all those years in NE he deserves it, no?

okay i know i know. the juxtaposition of a guide book author and Patahoochi's exploits isn't exactly fair.

It's the motivation behind needing or wanting to sell a book or jacket. which requires promotion. which increases traffic > impact > fossel fuels > consumption >blah blah blah.

all that plastic Patti sells (recycled or not) came across an ocean on a cargo burning enough diesel to fuel your wagon's commute for the next 10years?
Don't forget that recycled soda pop bottle you tossed last year was shipped to the land of the rising sun and processed using dead dinos in someone else's backyard for pennies paid to some poor sap who has no choice. The number of synthetic pata shirts sold to corp America is staggering. just so some cubical puke can feel cool while rotting in front of zeros and ones.

Erik, didn't your book print occur over seas before being shipped across? i wonder if it passed through BOTH Great Pacific Garbage Patches?

You guys crack me up. i enjoy the humor. thanks for steering me along here, but give it some thought. consider a birds eye view of what we climbers, stewards of the vertical, how we impact not only the center of the universe, but all roads leading to it. i play my part too. i'm just as guilty. i like patakoochi gear too. Hell, i'm thinking of purchasing Eriks book.

from my armchair tossing more pork grease on the dum(b)ster fire,
jcs

All good Holmz! To the rest of the MP El Cap aspirants post up what could help you succeed on the Big Stone and the community will do what we can to make it happen - it takes a Village!

Woot Woot! E

Yosemitebigwall.com

What about those of us who need to learn the techniques (i.e. need a climbing mentor) rather than just needing the gear?

A V wrote:

Get a guide or make some friends 

So much for 'it takes a village'.

jcs

Erik Sloanwrote:

Lol, so loving this thread....Jack, please talk to the guidebook authors where you live and report back about the substantial income they report, lol.....bottom line is El Cap is empty and super sad that people aren't buying my guidebook

A V wrote:

I mean - you 're unlikely to make friends on MP to take you up El Cap -  you gotta do it in real life. I'd recommend chilling in Church bowl and befriending the people with weird haircuts, tattoos, and beat up haulbags stuffed into their crappy looking vehicles. Weed, food, malt liqour, and/or coffee usually works to bribe people for friendship with. There's always some despondent person there who's partner has bailed on them, who just needs to find a living breathing human who is psyched to belay and can learn how to jug a rope. Way more risk involved with that approach than with a guide, but thats the spirit of adventure, baby!

A V, i agree. i can also admire the way in which Erik is willing to network items and knowledge needed for a wall. Perhaps this is his own way of giving back?

Russ Walling has been more than generous and gives back in a similar if not in a more charitable way too. 

jcs

Alana - you're right, it's high time we make a youtube video from Churchbowl. It is so easily accessible, and such a great place to start to practice. The SWan Slab aid route is very good too! Yosemite is lucky though in that there are really classic, easy beginner bigwalls like the South Face of the Column, etc. Have Fun! ...and good news the Yosemite Bigwalls: The Ultimate Guide has finally arrived. Woot Woot! E

Yosemitebigwall.com

@ Erik or others

Any advice on how to make a poop tube based only on supplies I can get in the valley? I would rather not drive far out of the valley to a hardware store. Thanks yall 

Pinjowrote:

@ Erik or others

Any advice on how to make a poop tube based only on supplies I can get in the valley? I would rather not drive far out of the valley to a hardware store. Thanks yall 

I used a peanut butter pretzel plastic tub, duct tape, plastic bags, trash bags, and powder laundry detergent

M Awrote:

I used a peanut butter pretzel plastic tub, duct tape, plastic bags, trash bags, and powder laundry detergent

^^ This right here is the beta for sure. Served me well on my last wall. 

M Awrote:

I used a peanut butter pretzel plastic tub, duct tape, plastic bags, trash bags, and powder laundry detergent

You gonna rile jackscoldsweat up with this here plastic & phosphate talk.