Soft shoe for a small heel

Hey all, I've been in the market for a new soft shoe for indoors. Unfortunately, I don't have too many local places to try on shoes (mainly Scarpa here). I have a Scarpa instinct VSR currently, and they are pretty snug (half sized below street), but I realised I have quite a bit of dead space on the sides of the heel. When trying out shoes, my toes are first to hurt all crimped up while my heel doesn't feels anything, so I assume my toes are relatively big compared to my heel size. From "research", I have narrowed my search to 2 rather new shoes.

1. Evolv Zenist. Watched some reviews on this and it seems to have a wider forefoot with a smaller heel. Seems good, and if I get this, will likely get equal to street shoe size.

2. La Sportiva Theory. Actually tried a friend's shoe, 1.5 sizes below street shoe and fits really well. 

Both are pretty much equal in price online. My priorities are that I want a shoe that has good durability (wouldn't just blow through the toe -- which I'm scared for the XS grip 2 on the theories) and being decent in edging.

Has anyone tried on both pairs? What are your thoughts?

I was also struggling with having too much volume in the heel on my shoes and found the madrock drones to be really good. Not as soft as something like the theory but my heel feels super secure even on small holds. And only $130..

I love my tenaya Iati. They fit my foot like a glove vs my solutions that have a lot of space in the heel

Joe Crosonwrote:

I was also struggling with having too much volume in the heel on my shoes and found the madrock drones to be really good. Not as soft as something like the theory but my heel feels super secure even on small holds. And only $130..

Yep, would really like to try the mad rock drones out, seems like the perfect shoe for a foot like mine! How do you size for the shoe?

Albert Moranwrote:

I love my tenaya Iati. They fit my foot like a glove vs my solutions that have a lot of space in the heel

Is Tenaya's fit like that in general? I'd consider if their shoes had a good small heel as well!

Scarpa Drago LV, compared to the VSR, larger toe space with much tighter heel.

Try the LV or women's scarpa models. Same sizing but a little less volume. I have a similar wider forefoot, narrow heel and it made just the right amount of difference. You could also try tghe women's or LV versions in Sportiva. Also if you want soft shoes to perform on volumes and smearing you are going to loose a little durability or some performance on edging with softer rubber. If you want edging and durability harder rubber looses some sensitivity.  I might pick the thing/s you're most concerned with and make a compromise. If you're worried about the grip rubber you're already climbing in it btw with your VSR's.

Salty Mwrote:

Yep, would really like to try the mad rock drones out, seems like the perfect shoe for a foot like mine! How do you size for the shoe?

Have mine in 11.5. For comparison I wear a 12 in Evolv shamans and a 12/12.5 in street shoe

Garrett Schwierwrote:

Have mine in 11.5. For comparison I wear a 12 in Evolv shamans and a 12/12.5 in street shoe

I'm interested in the drones as well.  I see they come in a HV and LV version.  which version do you have?

David Schalcoskywrote:

I'm interested in the drones as well.  I see they come in a HV and LV version.  which version do you have?

I have the HV. It has a wide toe box and small heel which is perfect for me. 

Salty Mwrote:

1. Evolv Zenist. Watched some reviews on this and it seems to have a wider forefoot with a smaller heel. Seems good, and if I get this, will likely get equal to street shoe size.

2. La Sportiva Theory. Actually tried a friend's shoe, 1.5 sizes below street shoe and fits really well. 

just a data point - I have 2 other styles of la sportivas (mythos and otaki) and they fit my heels closely. I previously climbed in evolvs (defy, kronos, cruzer) and they all had too much space in the heel.

Salty Mwrote:

Is Tenaya's fit like that in general? I'd consider if their shoes had a good small heel as well!

I tried on mastias and they were similar. Drago LV also feel good, maybe a little stiffer or more aggressive 

Salty Mwrote:

Yep, would really like to try the mad rock drones out, seems like the perfect shoe for a foot like mine! How do you size for the shoe?

I got my street size (vans) and they’re perfect