Most versatile rope combo?

I'm taking a few months to climb around the US this fall, and I'm curious what people think would be the most versatile combo of ropes to bring along? I intend on doing a good mix of single pitch cragging and longer alpine routes with long approaches. I like how lightweight a double rope system is for alpine, but much prefer climbing on a single line. 

I have a 9.4 70m that will take care of the cragging. For longer routes I'm considering: 

- One 8.7-9.0 triple rated rope paired with a skinny half rope

-A set of 8mm half/twins 

-One static rap line and just use the 9.4 I already have for everything

What would you take?

I would go with the triple/half combo. In my experience rapping with a tag line is always a headache thats not worth it.  With the triple you could always just use the the triple for routes with long approaches and no double raps. Mainly I would think about versatility. Since you already have a rope for cragging I can't think of a situation where triple/half wouldn't have you covered.

I'd go with the set of half ropes if you are going to be doing wandering alpine routes. I don't like belaying with ropes of different sizes and why bother with the triple rate rope and a skinny rope, it would essentially be the third option you presented, but more annoying to deal with. 

If you already have the cragging rope, then just pick up a 65m 7mm tag line. It'll get you down just about anything and be cheaper than a set of half ropes. You don't always need to rappel the longer stuff as there is frequently a walk off, so when you do need to do some long rappels you have the tagline and when you don't need to do the rappels you can leave it in the car. Also, you could do some light hauling with the static tagline if you need to.

I use a triple rated rope 8.2 i think and carry a 7.4 Beal Gulley that I had as a pair before one got a core shot! I replaced it with a 3'r to cut down on rope management while on long routes, but do have the option should I need to go half rope!

Have a great trip! If you end up in washington and need someone to climb with, hit me up!

thanks for the input everyone. Seems like it'll basically always be a trade off between versatility, weight, and durability, and that there's no single option that's great with all three. I think I'll likely go with a thicker triple rope (9mm) and a 8mm half. I don't see myself hauling much, and I like the idea of being able to climb with half ropes, put ropes together and have 2 followers (single + triple or triple + half on easy terrain), or also take just half and double it back for mountaineering type adventures. A bit more expensive and a bit more weight if I'm taking the triple + half than just two halves, but I think the options will be worth it. 

And Jason! that would be cool, always looking for connections in cool spots. I'll keep ya in mind if I'm in your area!

For your program I would take 3 ropes: 

One triple rated in 60 meters (Beal Opera for example)
One double rope in 60 meters
One beefy single rope in either 70 or 80 meters for cragging

Be sure to read what Will Gadd has written about using a set of halves to belay two followers before you use that technique. I think it was an Instagram post. 

Ben Mwrote:

Be sure to read what Will Gadd has written about using a set of halves to belay two followers before you use that technique. I think it was an Instagram post. 

I'll be sure to check out the post, thanks. Though I am aware that having a follower on a single half rope isn't ideal due to the rope stretch that would happen if they fall, if that's what the post refers to. I would only employ that technique if I was in a group of three on a route well below the follower's capability, and I knew it is near certain they wouldn't fall.

I like the idea of a super skinny triple like the opera, but having climbed ice on one, even with the unicore, it sketches me out a bit to use it by itself on rock for some reason. The joker is enticing but hard to find. I was thinking getting a slightly thicker triple, like the mammut 9.0 alpine sender, which feels a lot thicker in hand. 

jed wardswrote:

I'll be sure to check out the post, thanks. Though I am aware that having a follower on a single half rope isn't ideal due to the rope stretch that would happen if they fall, if that's what the post refers to. I would only employ that technique if I was in a group of three on a route well below the follower's capability, and I knew it is near certain they wouldn't fall.

I like the idea of a super skinny triple like the opera, but having climbed ice on one, even with the unicore, it sketches me out a bit to use it by itself on rock for some reason. The joker is enticing but hard to find. I was thinking getting a slightly thicker triple, like the mammut 9.0 alpine sender, which feels a lot thicker in hand. 

I have the sterling nano ix. I would highly recommend it as a triple rated 9.0 rope. Its seem ~50 pitches so far with a couple falls and only minimal wear is showing.

I've been climbing almost entirely on an Edelrid Swift Protect 8.9 for the last year and a half and it has been awesome.  I've been doing mostly sport climbing, but also a bit of alpine and multipitch climbing.  It has held up great, and the aramid yarns are very confidence inspiring in the mountains.  I've owned an Opera in the past and it always felt way too stretchy for cragging and didn't hold up super well.  Anyway, I've been psyched enough on the Swift Protect that I'd happily bring just that and a rap line for a cross country road trip where I was planning on getting after a little bit of everything.

Anyone here used the BD 8.9 dry rope? 

jed wardswrote:

Anyone here used the BD 8.9 dry rope? 

It's an awesome rope minus the middle mark fading almost instantly(pretty much all bd ropes). 

I won't use anything skinnier than a 9.2 to 9.4 for rock climbing anywhere near my limit, where a fall is likely, call me old school. Thinner lines are harder to brake than thicker ones, even if a grigri is being used. 

I would use your 9.2 and get a set of twin/half for the alpine. Make sure you get treated, so you can use them for ice this winter. 

Jake the rope I was telling you about at Black Mountain last weekend is the bluewater argon. I love mine.