Casual Route Conditions
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How it be up there yall? Specifically, how wet is it? Asking for a friend. |
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Looked dry as a bone last weekend. In other beta, there is a fixed 3 and 4 on pervertical, so there won’t be a better time than now to get on it without lugging up two #4s (if you like ample protection, that is). |
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Spoke with a ranger yesterday picking up my bivy permit for later this week and she let me know there has been ice reported in cracks up high after last weeks snow. With temps being up that ice will melt so probably some wet cracks but nothing that should stop anyone from climbing. FYI this wasn't for the casual route specifically, just general diamond conditions. |
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Was up on it yesterday, almost all dry. A few cracks were a bit wet, but nothing that took away from the climb. It was cloudy and quite windy so it was very cold and the rock was quite hand numbing. Maybe it was the freeze thaw that was happening with the snow last week but there was some raining rock, mostly small pebbles but a larger block (basketball-ish sized) came whizzing down by us while on the traverse pitch. Maybe that’s normal for the diamond, but it was our first time up there so couldn’t say. |
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Detrick Swrote: We bootied these. Y’all need to get better at cleaning gear :) There was a LARGE spontaneous rockfall near Fields Chimney while we were up there- several tons of rock that as far as I could tell released on its own. Scary stuff. Overall the face seems in good condition and seeing lots of action. Three parties on Casual on Fri. North chimney good, glacier small, nasty and easy to cross. no need for traction. Pervertical was dry, can’t speak for casual but as I said it was getting climbed. |
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I’m not sure if I experienced the same rock fall as you but the wall was packed (and plenty dry my friend) and what looked like a refrigerator sized block along with about a dozen microwave sized blocks come down off what I believe is lambs slide and the big block made it quite some ways. So don’t worry too much about rock conditions as much as you should worry about getting out to beat the crowds and early morning rock fall. |
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BUMP. |




