Pikes Peak bolt chopping resumes due to guide book publication

I am curious if anyone has context on the guidebook written by John Harlin, The Climbers Guide to North America - Rocky Mountain Rock Climbs, published in 1985.  I lucked out several years ago and came across a copy for only $0.50 from my local library.  It has a whole section on Pikes Peak featuring The Pericle, Bigger Bagger and Sphynx Buttress which probably amounted to most of the rock routes established up there at that time.  

Does anyone know the backlash, if any, at the time of its publication?  This was published maybe 15 or so years after the initial FAs that were being put up and I imagine this was a helpful guide to the early post-FAs Pikes Peak climbers.  I am not aware of any other publications on the area, but others may know.    

I too started climbing there like most others, with an invite from a partner in the know.  But, let's clarify the history on guidebook publishing for the area. 

George Perkins wrote:

There is a more recent guidebook than the Harlin one, the 1995 Bob D' book which also includes Garden of the Gods.

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Rock-Climbs-No-Colorado/dp/1575400278

Content is similar to the Harlin guide, but with topos.

Need to add this guidebook to the following thread:

"Worst" guidebook of all time

Fondly I remember trying to locate Bigger Bagger and the Martyr with this book...;-)

Gruffwrote:

I am curious if anyone has context on the guidebook written by John Harlin, The Climbers Guide to North America - Rocky Mountain Rock Climbs, published in 1985.  I lucked out several years ago and came across a copy for only $0.50 from my local library.  It has a whole section on Pikes Peak featuring The Pericle, Bigger Bagger and Sphynx Buttress which probably amounted to most of the rock routes established up there at that time.  

Does anyone know the backlash, if any, at the time of its publication?  This was published maybe 15 or so years after the initial FAs that were being put up and I imagine this was a helpful guide to the early post-FAs Pikes Peak climbers.  I am not aware of any other publications on the area, but others may know.    

I too started climbing there like most others, with an invite from a partner in the know.  But, let's clarify the history on guidebook publishing for the area. 

Hadn't heard of this book before. I have the east coast version of his guide. Thanks for bringing it up. I found a copy of Amazon for $1.43.

I loved the Harlan series. He's a really nice guy too not that that matters.

Whataya mean you couldn't find it?? isn't it clear??

PS I'm ready for my lumps Bo/Brad

Tradibanwrote:

You are misconstruing adventurous and no one advocates grid bolting, it just happens naturally when norms and traditions slip like they are on PP.

Normally I’m a big fan of your work, but you’re definitely wrong here. PP will never be grid bolted, and not because of Bo either. 

Not Not MP Adminwrote:

Normally I’m a big fan of your work, but you’re definitely wrong here. PP will never be grid bolted, and not because of Bo either. 

Not saying it will be grid bolted per se, saying that nobody plans grid bolting, it happens gradually over time as ethics slip.

a bloc - which guidebook is that in?  That topo is hilarious!  The Harlin guide is a bit better and has detailed photos showing approach and routes.

Tradibanwrote:

Not saying it will be grid bolted per se, saying that nobody plans grid bolting, it happens gradually over time as ethics slip.

As ethics slip? Or as they change… once upon a time bolting, in general, and sport climbing, was considered unethical. 

R Gwrote:

As ethics slip? Or as they change… once upon a time bolting, in general, and sport climbing, was considered unethical. 

Yes. Bolting begat sport climbing, sport climbing begat grid bolting. The standards "slip" until they are the domain of the hedonists.

Tradibanwrote:

Yes. Bolting begat sport climbing, sport climbing begat grid bolting. The standards "slip" until they are the domain of the hedonists.

Where and when will the slide stop, nobody knows.

I'll guess somewhere around 5.6

So funny for bolt clipping trad climbers to pontificate about the "slippery slope."  The wringing of hand and gnashing of teeth! Especially when we all know y'all use convenience anchors, clip bolts on unprotectable faces, etc. Sounds more like the slimy slope of hypocrisy! 

I guarantee every one of these guys whining about guide books owns countless guide books of their own.

Tim Stichwrote:

I guarantee every one of these guys whining about guide books owns countless guide books of their own.

I only own about four of them. One because I know the author and bought it to support him but never used it, one when I went to England, and two to the same area but by different authors because I know a lot of the people who did first ascents there are in them and also because I am in them. That's it ,no other reason. Is this a money back guarantee?

Tim Stichwrote:

I guarantee every one of these guys whining about guide books owns countless guide books of their own.

In a parallel world scientists are being attacked and deemed incompetent by the religious right because they sometimes have to learn new things and change their minds.

M Mwrote:

In a parallel world scientists are being attacked and deemed incompetent by the religious right because they sometimes have to learn new things and change their minds.

there is no changing your mind in light of facts, only flip flopping! 

which is why i still give a hip belay on hemp rope. good enough once, good enough always. 

off to find the edge of the earth later and looking for partner if you’re interested, montoya. 

Matt Piercewrote:

Sounds like some boys need a good old fashioned beat down.

An unoriginal and uncivilized idea.

I want to climb with Kevin.

Angry people have taken over climbing.

Raw hostility