Climbing life in Athens/Atlanta/North GA?

Any suggestions on where to live and/or climb in the Athens / Atlanta / N GA area? Indoor and/or outdoor climbing? Boulder, Sport or Trad. Looking for moderates. I’ve climbed for a long time but not much in the last few years (lived in the flatlands). Thanks!

I’m currently in Athens at University of Georgia. I Boulder, climb sport, and climb trad (single and multi). Gyms in Atlanta and the one here in Athens have everything you need to train hard. Plenty of great bouldering that’s within a few hours at Rocktown, Hospital Boulders, HP40, Stonefort, Rumbling Bald, etc. for Sport you can hit Sandrock in AL if you’re newer, once you hit 11s+ check out Little River Canyon. Denny Cove, Castle Rock, and Foster Falls in chat are all great. For trad you’ve got T-Wall and Sunset Rock in Chattanooga, and then all the Western North Carolina stuff really close too. In the summer your best bet is trad at Sunset Rock or anything up in boone, NC or past. In the rain you can hit Lizard Wall at Little River Canyon or Buffet Wall at Denny Cove. The community down here is hospitable and encouraging, it’s a great place to be. If you’re really serious about getting strong and having really accessible climbing and gyms to do so, nothing beats Chattanooga. Lmk if you have any more questions!

PS: there’s also Currahee, Yonah, and Tallulah Gorge here in Georgia. 

Interesting thread. Back in ancient times (1950s) I lived in Atlanta and Athens, graduating from UGA in 1958. Back then we would climb on Stone Mountain, at times on the uncompleted carving. The exposed granite at the base of the figures was a beautiful pure white and a delight to be on. We also climbed around Fort Mountain and Cloudland Canyon. When I say "we" I mean only a couple of guys I recruited from Ga Tech and UGA. There was no climbing community.

Ben summed it up well. And there's plenty more to add to that list. "Moderates" can be defined in a few different ways, but suffice to say there's something for everyone in these parts. 

John, more stories from the ancient times please! :) 

Little Man wrote:

Out of curiosity, did you ever explore Tallulah Gorge or any of the numerous areas in nearby Highlands/Cashiers area much? 

I recall visiting Tallulah Gorge a couple of times, scouting a boulder or two. Never heard of Highlands/Cashiers. I left Georgia in 1958 and only returned years later for a few days on professional trips. It may have been the early 1990s a colleague and I went back to visit the math lab at Ga Tech and we drove out to Stone Mountain. My God, what a zoo! Two 6'+ armed female guards told us we couldn't go up to the base of the carving. It was hard to hear them because giant loudspeakers below the carving were playing the theme from Star Wars. We hiked up the only legal path to the top, spotted a busy miniature southern mansion hot dog stand and observed a kite flying contest, participants (including a young man and his grandmother) high on pot and giggling, running back and forth across the summit. Looking down we could see the fake paddle steamer on the artificial lake and hear the fake Indians chasing the tourist train that ran around the base.

Looking back, it all seems like a bad dream.  

Thank you for your contributions to our sport Mr. Gill,

Your early bouldering ascents, and ability to blaze your own path are inspiring.

Your recent interview with Alex Honnold/ Fitz Cahall  was fantastic.

Cheers,

Ezra.

Thank you, everyone for your insights to the area! I’ll check out your recommendations.

John Gill, thank you so much for recounting your exploits and climbing history in GA.  I began climbing in the Gunks in the 90’s then moved to CO. I recall flailing helplessly on The Gill Crack. Astounding that your FA was in the 60’s. I’ve had to take a climbing break in recent years to care for family but your stories are inspirational! Please share more if you are inclined.

John Gill replies are literally the best part of mountainproject.

On a side note, I’ve always thought that a nice compromise to the current Stone Mtn. controversy would be just to rap bolt the carvings and let climbers siege project Robert E. Lee or whatever. 

Pnelson, I like that idea even more than the proposed outkast carving.

Pnelsonwrote:

John Gill replies are literally the best part of mountainproject.

On a side note, I’ve always thought that a nice compromise to the current Stone Mtn. controversy would be just to rap bolt the carvings and let climbers siege project Robert E. Lee or whatever. 

This is Paul's last forum post. Very fitting actually, with a very in-character blend of history, climbing, and humor. 

RIP Paul. 

JCMwrote:

This is Paul's last forum post. Very fitting actually, with a very in-character blend of history, climbing, and humor. 

I'm so sorry to hear of Paul's passing away.