Favorite discontinued gear

I had an Arc’teryx harness that was yellow, green and orange(I think) that was pretty nice.  Light weight, didn’t get hot and was pretty Damon comfy.  Pretty sure their new model is just a solid color.

What other small cams are that skinny?

The OG Testarossa.  

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

What other small cams are that skinny?

Ballnuts. 

that guy named sebwrote:

Well it's happened, arcteryx discontinued the alpha fl, jacket, the best jacket on the market, stripped back and really light while still being adequately durable and protective. I will treasure mine for years to come.   

That jacket just got a refresh with built-in RECCO last year... really odd that they would discontinue it this season. I wonder why?

Ball nuts  too finicky for everyday  free climbing  INMOP 

Ball Nuts can be unbeatable in shallow cracks for bomber protection 

My favorite--is the old Black Diamond Hexes.

I have used them in tons of different ways, as I am sure that everyone has...

But I *am* curious--has anybody ever gotten a full explanation as to why BD stopped selling/making unwired ones?

I looked recently on the BD website--for a technical analysis--

And to be honest, it sounded like some (I am trying to not be overly-abrasive, here...) snot-nosed 20-something-know-nothing wrote the article... perhaps you have seen it. Th:e part about slung hexentrics:

****

#6 Hex – threaded with 6mm cord
Broke at 7.4kN – cord was cut at the hex.
One of our manufacturing engineers was digging through her gear and found some old hexes slung with cord. Back in the day when I started climbing, you actually bought JUST the hex—it didn’t come with cable, cord, nothing. You would get some 6mm and sling it yourself with a double fisherman’s. So that’s what we did—just to compare strength-wise to the “new school” way of using cable. We didn’t want to break Taylor’s vintage gear so we cut the cable off a new hex and re-slung it with 6mm. Not surprisingly it was significantly weaker than if cable was used—the cord ended up being cut by the edge of the holes in the hex.

Not only does using cable on a hex make it stronger, but it also makes it easier to place, much more functional, and easier to remove because of the relative stiffness of the cable. Trying to place a slung hex is tough as it’s as floppy as a wet noodle.

****

1. I don't know about you, but the 6mm bit was a dead-giveaway. The *alleged* technical writer-used non-technical crap-tastic accessory cord. I won't even bother looking up the specs, but I know that it isn't as strong as spectra, or dyneema.

2. While it isn't a fail point in the test, it was narrated that a double-fisherman's was used. I was taught--some 30 years ago--to ALWAYS---alwaysAlwaysALWAYS... always use a triple fisherman's knot. It was almost as if the writer was trying to set it up to fail...

3. A NEW hex was used-and can only wonder-if those new hexes--aren't properly tapered/chamfered--to give a softer bend-as the SPECTRA/DYNEEMA passes through it--again, it almost looks like this test was designed for the "old-school" hexes to fail.

-Except---this test used a NEW hex, with inferior slinging cordage, and knots which are below any experienced climber's knowledge/recommendations on it...

TBH, when I was taught about spectra, and what you can/cannot do and don't do with it, I always had a marginal distrust for all my wired stoppers, with the shrink-wrapped little knob... simply because *I* didn't make it, and because I cannot see it... Whereas I can see the condition of my spectra, and if/when I need to replace it...

So... has there been anybody else--in an independent lab--that tested an old-style hex-WITH the proper cord, and the proper knots--giving an objective test?

Or was there some other reason why BD only sells wired ones now? Was the tech analysis (copied right off the BD website) above a bogus hit job on old school equipment, in order to sell the new gear, or was there ever some new knowledge obtained--about how this stuff fails?

Tom Langewrote:

My favorite--is the old Black Diamond Hexes.

(Slung are my favorite too)

The 1 liter platypus bag with the built in clip loop and the old model MSR dromedary.

caughtinside wrote:

Didn't Madrock make a knock off of it for a while?

Mad Rock still makes the one you refer to, the Lifeguard.  It's a sweet piece.

C3s! Luckily my full set is still in pretty good conditions. I love the 3 cam solution, makes them sit more stable on the rock. I don't care if they're more prone to walking, just use them in shallow placements or something to constrain they motion, which is pretty common in granite where I climb most of the time.

Petzl Microcender I also use often, but wouldn't say I'd miss it, since the newer Rescucender seems to be a good improved version of it.

thats how i feel about my red and yellow BD TCU

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

Ball nuts  too finicky for everyday  free climbing  INMOP 

Who is placing a 000 C3 in everyday free climbing? 

Tom Langewrote:

Or was there some other reason why BD only sells wired ones now? Was the tech analysis (copied right off the BD website) above a bogus hit job on old school equipment, in order to sell the new gear, or was there ever some new knowledge obtained--about how this stuff fails?

The actual reason is this, the only people who buy hexes now are brits and winter climbers, winter climbers bash the shit out of nuts and hexes so a more durable cable is the better option. If you want a new slung hex just go with dmm, they're really good as far as hexes go. 

Could BD make hexes not on wires? Yes but it would mean making a new product properly and hexes just don't sell that well in their main market. 

WIthout a doubt my Petzl Ecrin Roc, for caving and canyonnning this is the best helmet.
25 years and barely a few scraches. It's also a great seat :)

that guy named sebwrote:

Who is placing a 000 C3 in everyday free climbing? 

Me if I freakin' had one. There are placements for that thing all over the place.

I

use that red and yellow all the time.  Same size as  green and  yellow aliens that wore out years ago.  

Cherokee Nuneswrote:

Boreal Ballet Golds, the last of the board lasted climbing shoes. I love these things. I still have an operational pair probably good for 2 or more resoles and a brand new pair in the stock room! Brings a tear to my eye...

Cherokee, Miles, Buck Rio, other fans of the Ballet Golds, have you found another similar shoe to replace them? Resoled Ballet Golds were my replacement for Tradmasters, and I'm going to need to move on to another model here soon. I enjoy a wide, stiff, all-day-comfort lace-up shoe with an L-shaped heel (not C-shaped) and rounded toe box. Any leads are appreciated! 

Marmot Windshirt