Should Extreme Unction in Ferguson Canyon have a bolt/pin added to protect the crux?

If you go to the comments for Extreme Unction, you'll find that at least 4 people have fallen at the crux, had their pro zipper, took a ~30-35' ground fall, and broke their backs. I personally am one of those people that this happened too. Last June (it'll be one year this Sunday!) I fell and broke three vertebrae, burst four discs, fractured my pelvis, heel, sternum, and tailbone. People claim that the pro at that roof is absolutely bomber, but if this exact spot has led to the exact same situation of pro coming out for at least (probably more than) four people, then maybe its not quite as bomber as some people say it is.

I wanted to start a discussion about whether or not the route might need some kind of pro installed at the roof crux. From what I understand there used to be a piton protecting that part of the route, but it's no longer there. I'm not one to usually suggest adding bolts to trad routes, but seeing as how there used to be a pin protecting this section anyway, I don't think it would be exactly out of character for the climb. Its not like this is some historic Little Cottonwood route. Its a single pitch in Ferguson Canyon. No disrespect to Ferguson but it doesn't exactly have the same importance to Wasatch climbing history as some of its neighbors. 

I'm certainly not the one that would install a bolt there. I don't have any experience drilling in granite and have only been climbing in the Wasatch for a few years so I wouldn't feel its my place to go out and start adding bolts to trad routes. But I think it's worth opening a discussion and seeing what people think. Maybe just adding an R or PG13 grade to the route and throwing something in the route description would be enough?  Maybe just restoring the pin that used to be there will help while still maintaining the character of the route? But this route will be the cause of more broken backs and it will be the reason more people are left disabled. I think its worth doing something about that.

Thoughts?

Nick Schwenglerwrote:

If you go to the comments for Extreme Unction, you'll find that at least 4 people have fallen at the crux, had their pro zipper, took a ~30-35' ground fall, and broke their backs. I personally am one of those people that this happened too. Last June (it'll be one year this Sunday!) I fell and broke three vertebrae, burst four discs, fractured my pelvis, heel, sternum, and tailbone. People claim that the pro at that roof is absolutely bomber, but if this exact spot has led to the exact same situation of pro coming out for at least (probably more than) four people, then maybe its not quite as bomber as some people say it is.

I wanted to start a discussion about whether or not the route might need some kind of pro installed at the roof crux. From what I understand there used to be a piton protecting that part of the route, but it's no longer there. I'm not one to usually suggest adding bolts to trad routes, but seeing as how there used to be a pin protecting this section anyway, I don't think it would be exactly out of character for the climb. Its not like this is some historic Little Cottonwood route. Its a single pitch in Ferguson Canyon. No disrespect to Ferguson but it doesn't exactly have the same importance to Wasatch climbing history as some of its neighbors. 

I'm certainly not the one that would install a bolt there. I don't have any experience drilling in granite and have only been climbing in the Wasatch for a few years so I wouldn't feel its my place to go out and start adding bolts to trad routes. But I think it's worth opening a discussion and seeing what people think. Maybe just adding an R or PG13 grade to the route and throwing something in the route description would be enough?  Maybe just restoring the pin that used to be there will help while still maintaining the character of the route? But this route will be the cause of more broken backs and it will be the reason more people are left disabled. I think its worth doing something about that.

Thoughts?

Consider:

• 4 people had unfortunate accidents. Thousands of others have not.
• The overwhelming consensus in the comments is that it protects very well, even without the now missing pin.

Maybe, at most, replace the pin. Definitely no bolt (and I normally don't care about bolts).

I do not think a bolt should be added.  I do not have a strong opinion about replacing the piton.  Sorry about your injury and hope you make a quick recovery! 

Which roof? Up high?? Can't you cram one or two good cams in the horizontals at the first overlap?

Russ Keanewrote:

Which roof? Up high?? Can't you cram one or two good cams in the horizontals at the first overlap?

That's exactly what I and one other user who commented on the route did and both of us had our gear pop. Not sure about the placements of the other people who took ground falls from there though. 

Nick holy crap first off, how are you ?  Do you have your full body capacities at this point?  So sorry about your ordeal.

I thought maybe it was April 1st when I read this.

Sadly my calendar on the wall says June 18th.

Sorry to hear of your and others fall. Hope your recovery is going well. As I have removed old pins throughout the Wasatch when next to adequate protection I may have removed the pin years ago as it was loose and no longer safe. Most often these pins are tapped out with my old Lowe Chock Tocker ( cdn2.apstatic.com/forum/181…) which has a light weight, ~6 oz  hammer head on it. I mention this point because many pins are not as secure as people think. I had one pretty much just fall out on one of the lower Thumb routes.

As for adding fixed gear, as many others have said there is good protection. None of which I have felt was fiddly and apt to pull. For instance, at the roof I double up on gear there before launching upwards. Further one can get a good piece in above the roof, come back down, shake out then continue to the top. There are a couple of photos showing people doing that. So like others no fixed gear is needed. That said adding to the route description regarding the recent falls may be warranted. 

First of all, so sorry about your accident. Hoping you heal quickly. 

This route is G rated and can be done safely. Middle section protects with bomber horizontal .2 and the climbing is 5.6 at the hardest. Under the roof can be protected with a bomber golden BD stopper (and a cam if you want to be safe) before hitting the crux, and then a number 1 at the crux that I and others have whipped on multiple times. I see no reason justifying a bolt nor a pin.

Unfortunately gear pulling is an accident we all dread as trad climbers, but bolting as risk mitigation on all trad climbs is not the solution. Better gear and doubling up when gear is shaky can mitigate this risk.

Really sorry to hear about your accident.

Maybe folks should just consider top roping it.  

When in doubt, double or triple up on your lead pro.  Don't proceed if you think your gear won't hold a fall.  Easy in hindsight...

Sending good vibes for a speedy recovery.

Challenge: work on your protection placements! Maybe some aid bouldering to increase your knowledge of what will work(hold) or not. 

To fun and safe trad climbs in thr future..

No need for more fixed gear, nor bolts!

Cheers.

Ok. Here is my take. Climbing should be fun and challenging and sometimes even scary. I am pretty much a diehard traditionalist…but a short, easily accessible, popular climb such as this should not be a death route. I cannot imagine taking a grounder here at the crux!
Allen took the proper course removing the pin…as it was of questionable utility and dependability. 
Nick, your accident is horrific and I hope you make a full recovery. I have no problem with a bolt at the crux. But still back it up with those bomber cams. 

I usually get at least 3 pieces (#0.5, #0.75, a tricam for fun, and a #0.3) in beneath the roof and a #1 at the lip before pulling the roof.

I fell here many years ago when I was a budding 5.10 climber.  Fear of falling on gear was categorically the reason I was a 5.8 climber vs. a 5.10 climber.  I fell at the roof and the gear held.  It changed my trad climbing game forever.  This climb started a new chapter in my climbing career.

When I clicked on this, I thought it was about adding a bolt to the "up-side down staircase" at the start which was always kind of weird.  Surprised about it being at the roof.

Nick, I'm really sorry about your accident and hope you make a full recovery.

Disclaimer.  Don't even know where the route is or even which state.  That being said  four serious accidents in  one place is not just a coincidence.  Something is going on there.  Is it simply a case of too many gym climber's not being prepared to climb outside? Perhaps the rock is slippery and the gear really doesn't hold well in that placement?? There are plenty of over used beginner climbs that don't have 4 serious accidents in the same spot ...  perhaps the folks adamant that the  gear is bomber should  go up there and place the gear just the way that they usually do and then  take the falls. It the gear really is good  then there needs to be some kind of effort to educate the  beginners that its a serious crux and needs to be treated accordingly.  If the gear really is questionable place the bolt.  

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

Disclaimer.  Don't even know where the route is or even which state.  That being said  four serious accidents in  one place is not just a coincidence.  Something is going on there.  Is it simply a case of too many gym climber's not being prepared to climb outside? Perhaps the rock is slippery and the gear really doesn't hold well in that placement?? There are plenty of over used beginner climbs that don't have 4 serious accidents in the same spot ...  perhaps the folks adamant that the  gear is bomber should  go up there and place the gear just the way that they usually do and then  take the falls. It the gear really is good  then there needs to be some kind of effort to educate the  beginners that its a serious crux and needs to be treated accordingly.  If the gear really is questionable place the bolt.  

Nothing is going on, its a safe 10a in a well TRed little canyon. I've led it numerous times its as safe as any crack out there. Its a serious crux though, tiny cam under the roof and a bomber #1(maybe a bit hard to place) above it. Area classic.

4 serious accidents in one spot yet nothing is going on.  Nice  science based approach... 

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

4 serious accidents in one spot yet nothing is going on.  Nice  science based approach... 

Two fairly vetted serious accidents...2 word of mouth?  

Still...quite a few folks have fallen and pulled gear here in the Wasatch.  Doesn't always warrant adding fixed gear.  And, that pin was dubious for years.

There's bomber gear.  Would I want to whip on it?  Nope.  I get the risk with this type of climbing, especially having pulled gear and ending up in an ER and surgery.

Have also helped SAR carry a guy to the waiting helicopter who pulled all his gear next door on Heart Wall.  Hurt pretty badly.  No one called for adding fixed gear.

I've seen folks fall and dog on gear on this route.  Even with a bolt below the first roof, there's no guarantee a person who falls from higher on the route won't get hurt, especially if they don't stop to protect the upper portion of the route.  Which is not easy to do when you're pumped.

Took me awhile to feel like I was ready for this lead.  And, memorable when I finally did.  And, I put in gear next to the pin, over that first roof, and, further up the route prior to hitting the top out.  Felt like I could fall on any of the pieces but glad I didn't.  I wasn't looking for a "dog point."

I'm not super opposed to a bolt where the pin was.  But, its a popular route and on any given day has a que on it.  One of the first routes in the canyon and the trail bangs right into it.  Its a "marquee" climb.  Heavily and easily TR'd.  A bolt would make it even more of a cluster F and given that to be lead safely, gear needs to be placed further up the route, I'm not sure it would really help keep folks from getting hurt.  My guess is that it would lead to even more accidents. 

Les..your opinion carries weight.  Out of all the folks who climbed in Fergy over the years, you probably have the most history especially in the early 80's.  My guess is Brian wouldn't want a bolt, but, would re-place that pin (cheers!).

Anyhow...Nick, come out and do it some time.  Its a classic.

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

4 serious accidents in one spot yet nothing is going on.  Nice  science based approach... 

A trade route in a city of a million plus people is gonna have some blood on it dont you think?

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

4 serious accidents in one spot yet nothing is going on.  Nice  science based approach... 

...out of 10's of thousands of ascents over many decades.

actually no.  there are thousands of trade routes within  day trip distance of large metro areas and most of them don't have 4 serious accidents with the same  method of failure on the same section of the climb. 

Post limits suck! totally interrupts a conversation.

 What I mean is that is not normal. we can all have opinions that don't really mean jack shit. It would be interesting to have a detailed investigation of all 4 accidents and see if they all had a common vector. If the gear ripping was one common factor then  were there any other common factors and what were they.   My worthless opinion is that ether #1 all 4 accidents were noobs  who did not have enough gear experience to do the climb. Solution. large font warning in the guide that YGD if you don't have your feces wired tight on this climb. #2 the gear ripped because it simply is not as good as people think it is. Solution. Drill baby drill ;)

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

actually no.  there are thousands of trade routes within  day trip distance of large metro areas and most of them don't have 4 serious accidents with the same  method of failure on the same section of the climb. 

You mean not protecting it adequately despite it being adequately protected?