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Best beginner TR climbs in the Gunks?

Original Post
Erin Milano · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2021 · Points: 0

I'm looking to take some new climbing friends to the Gunks to hop on some easy top rope routes. Any recommendations for routes that have bolted anchors?

RJ S · · South Jersey/Van · Joined Aug 2020 · Points: 5

Peterskill 

Pierre de St Croix · · CT · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 0

Bunny, Double Chin, Rhododendron, pitch one of Jackie (plus Jasmine), Northern Pillar & Cedar Box

Simon Thompson · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 895

Do you mean top-access to bolted anchors or easily TRd on bolts after leading? 

frech sends · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 36

Peter’s Kill is excellent for this. Cheaper entry fee than the preserve and a predominantly top-rope scene, so lots of bolted anchors and accessible cliff tops.

Clamshell wall has some taller climbs that are usually impressive to new outdoor climbers. 

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,762

While the Clamshell Wall has the largest batch of bolted anchors (6 sets) close together, the routes there are in the 5.7 - 8 range. That might be a bit stiff for the average total beginner. Fit young adults with a positive mindset may not be totally frustrated however. OTOH if something in the 5.3 - 5.5 range is more appropriate, the West Cliff (Bunk Bad and Kahdejha faces) have some bolted lines in that range. The PK guidebook or GunksApp will let you find these and other objectives.

Don Eiver · · Westchester County, NY · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 27
Pierre de St Croixwrote:

Bunny, Double Chin, Rhododendron, pitch one of Jackie (plus Jasmine), Northern Pillar & Cedar Box

I would recommend staying away from trying to top rope these and go to Peterskill. There will be plenty of new leaders looking to place gear with the nice weather having arrived and setting up top ropes on these climbs will slow things down greatly for everyone including your group.

Pierre de St Croix · · CT · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 0
Don Eiverwrote:

I would recommend staying away from trying to top rope these and go to Peterskill. There will be plenty of new leaders looking to place gear with the nice weather having arrived and setting up top ropes on these climbs will slow things down greatly for everyone including your group.

I agree, but last I checked it is 

still first come, first serve.

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

There are also one or two short cliff bands roughly above the southernmost section if the Trapps ( the first area you reach from the West Trapps lot) that have no routes listed in the guidebooks but with numerous easy options and offer good top rope set-ups. In the past they were commonly used for training by the AMC and other organizations, but I believe they are neglected today. By climbing there it is unlikely that you would interfere with others who are hoping to get on the established easier routes on the main cliffs. There are no bolted anchors but plenty of trees.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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