Reminder: Slow down and check yourself!

According to their Instagram page, Salt Lake County Search and Rescue has responded to four climbing accidents in the last week. One person pulled all their protection and hit the ground. Another fell 70 feet while cleaning an anchor. I realize that accidents happen, but let's do our part to stay safe and ease the burden on SAR by slowing down, double-checking our systems, and clearly communicating with our partners. 

Good post.  I hope we don't give the general public the wrong idea about climbing.

Russ Keane wrote:

Good post.  I hope we don't give the general public the wrong idea about climbing.

Lol - like it’s safe and any idiot can do it?

Bill Schick wrote:

Lol - like it’s safe and any idiot can do it?

MP is proof that any idiot can do it.

Russ Keane wrote:

Good post.  I hope we don't give the general public the wrong idea about climbing.

That's one of my concerns. I don't want the climbing community to come off as a bunch of reckless yahoos leeching off charity... 

The inevitable has begun!

Climbing has become mainstream. With this, many people are cavalier with the whole process.  With more climbers, more accidents will happen.  I do feel that the increase in accidents is exacerbated by the relaxed nature of younger generations.  I watched multiple parties at a popular crag and was surprised on how little they considered the seriousness of the consequences.  They were joking and laughing with each other while threading anchors. One of the routes required fairly tricky gear placements.  I watched a leader placing gear while conversing with others at the base and not look twice at the gear.  The proliferation of indoor climbing gyms can promote a “fall at will” attitude. Often this  does not work well in the natural environment. Many Wasatch routes are best climbed with a “don’t fall” perspective.  

Climbers need to be aware that the Wasatch has an abundance of old routes that greatly differ from modern routes that were established in a more convenient fashion.   Leaving a sport crag with mussy hooks and bolts every body length is drastically different from an old Ruckman route where a small nut is mandatory for safe protection. Gym and well traveled crags do not have the inherent danger of loose rock.  

If this attitude continues, this increase of accidents will continue 

I also think The volunteer search and rescue will become a paid position, Perhaps funded by a tax imposed on the retail sales of climbing equipment 

Stevie Nacho wrote:

Climbing has become mainstream. With this, many people are cavalier with the whole process.  With more climbers, more accidents will happen.  I do feel that the increase in accidents is exacerbated by the relaxed nature of younger generations.  I watched multiple parties at a popular crag and was surprised on how little they considered the seriousness of the consequences.  They were joking and laughing with each other while threading anchors. One of the routes required fairly tricky gear placements.  I watched a leader placing gear while conversing with others at the base and not look twice at the gear.  The proliferation of indoor climbing gyms can promote a “fall at will” attitude. Often this  does not work well in the natural environment. Many Wasatch routes are best climbed with a “don’t fall” perspective.  

Climbers need to be aware that the Wasatch has an abundance of old routes that greatly differ from modern routes that were established in a more convenient fashion.   Leaving a sport crag with mussy hooks and bolts every body length is drastically different from an old Ruckman route where a small nut is mandatory for safe protection. Gym and well traveled crags do not have the inherent danger of loose rock.  

If this attitude continues, this increase of accidents will continue 

I also think The volunteer search and rescue will become a paid position, Perhaps funded by a tax imposed on the retail sales of climbing equipment 

Right on. I've seen the times a'changing right before my eyes and nothing we say or do will change it back.

A classic in the subject btw: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/117765801/how-to-keep-people-out-of-climbing

A great example of this newer attitude is apparent at The Devils Castle.  Parties climbers underneath each other and also rap the routes. I witnessed four parties on two routes. Both upper parties were yelling “rock,” while the lower climbers took cover. 

Many consider This practice an absolute “no-no” on this buttress. If you hike to the base and somebody is on your intended route, you choose another.  For the love of God, you NEVER rap the Devils Castle. 

Years ago, I watch a climber taking intentional falls on Barefoot in Barbados. I was at the top of Hatchet crack and had a great view. Standing at the belay, I told my wife that the climber shouldn’t be “gym falling” on that slab.  Soon after, we witnessed another intentional fall and heard the snap of his leg which resulted in a compound fracture.  

I am glad to see that the prominent local news outlets are reporting these frequent accidents.  I hope it will increase awareness 

Tda 

Seems someone had a case of narcolepsy while night climbing and realized their dreamscape of falling was real.

https://kutv.com/news/local/rescued-climber-falls-70-feet-down-mountain-in-big-cottonwood-canyon

This thread makes me think twice about putting up easy routes with tricky gear.  

But not really. 

Damn Gumbies...

Right there with everyone...just hauled an injured climber off the wall yesterday.  It was..."back breaking" work.  And it happened in an area that is 1000% a do not fall zone in my experience and opinion--2 pitches up, super low angle, unconsolidated, loose ledges in BCC.

SLC SAR Commander had this to say to me:

"We have a 40 person team and we do multiple rescue missions in different locations at the same time. I don't know if 'you' are fully aware of the situation that you put yourself into where you could be liable if this individual had fallen off your back and perhaps died. Please relay to the entire community that SLC SAR is NEVER too busy. I just hope you didn't make things worse by trying to do the right thing. In this case we would've used a helicopter and done an Emergency Evacuation. Helicopter rescues through the DPS systems are typically at no cost to the patient."

I was very aware of the "liability" the entire time.   I would say that the assumed cost of the rescue and the fact that we believed SAR to be already over extended led to our decision to self-rescue.

I WILL BE CALLING SLC SAR NEXT TIME...(I come across gumbies who need a hand).  And I hope that someone will do exactly the same if they every come across me in a dire situation.   

call 911 directly...they'll dispatch SAR.

At no cost to the patient...just a cost to you and I

Stevie Nacho wrote:

At no cost to the patient...just a cost to you and I

Yes, the DPS budget comes out of tax dollars, but there's no additional cost for rescues. IOW, you're "paying" the same amount, with or without rescues.

Stevie Nacho wrote:

At no cost to the patient...just a cost to you and I

I agree Dr. Nacho...I agree.   But that does seem to be the price we pay to belong to this society...AND...have the freedoms and securities to enjoy these beautiful lands.   Plus!  Look at this awesome iphone I have!  And a nice truck...and a nice laptop, skis, kayak, etc. etc.   Oh the prices we pay...

Another one today- Ferguson.  I have no info but police & SAR were on scene. 

Russ Keane wrote:

Another one today- Ferguson.  I have no info but police & SAR were on scene. 

Sounds like a hiker on houndstooth. That's damn trail runners need to slow down and check their systems!

Anonymous wrote:

Ahhh Allens back, just what we needed. You seemed to disappear from the pipedream cave so I'll ask you again here:

Have you ever climber anything at pipedream or a similarly steep cave, anywhere?

Let it go... and get out there and climb!

Kill em with actions and smiles brother..