Post Other (Not Awesome) Trad Videos Here

Here's a new one from the weekend whipper... if you read the page they are new trad leaders

Big Redwrote:

Here's a new one from the weekend whipper... if you read the page they are new trad leaders

He was wearing a visor, are we surprised?

In such a short video we have:

1. Liebacking what looks like a very jammable crack
2. Taking instead of falling
3. Placing gear so poorly you can't even take on it
4. Putting your foot behind the rope so you flip upside down
5. Not wearing a helmet, so flipping upside down is even more dangerous
6. Belayer who is positioned so he ends up falling while catching a fall
7. Was that belayer's hand in the brake position? Hard to tell, might be an optical illusion, but it seems like when he says "got ya" he actually puts his brake hand UP and to the right.

8. Yellow shirt trying to get out of the landing zone is pretty funny too.

David Kwrote:

In such a short video we have:

1. Liebacking what looks like a very jammable crack
2. Taking instead of falling
3. Placing gear so poorly you can't even take on it
4. Putting your foot behind the rope so you flip upside down
5. Not wearing a helmet, so flipping upside down is even more dangerous
6. Belayer who is positioned so he ends up falling while catching a fall
7. Was that belayer's hand in the brake position? Hard to tell, might be an optical illusion, but it seems like when he says "got ya" he actually puts his brake hand UP and to the right.

Nothing wrong with laybacking, it's often faster and easier, especially if there are feet. The MP page describes it as a lieback.
Nothing wrong with taking.
His foot wasn't behind the rope. They were exactly were they should be when laybacking.
Nothing wrong with the belay position. If you piece pops when taking you're gonna fall on your ass. It's not like he fell off a cliff.
Perfectly fine way to take in slack with a GriGri.

So bad gear and no helmet, otherwise fine.

Doctor Drakewrote:

He was wearing a visor, are we surprised?

Yeah!!! Visors make you a gumby

Austin Donisanwrote: So bad gear and no helmet, otherwise fine.

You might be right but those are some pretty big qualifiers, bad gear plus no helmet, that's all! This was the first video like this I've seen in a while that I thought was really frightening. That dude, and maybe his belayer also, are very lucky they weren't maimed or killed. That climb accepts bomber not-micro gear the whole way; if you rip two pieces out you're just guessing at what you're doing at it's pure luck the third holds.

Posting this will surely make me feel better about being too scared to climb 5.7s on gear.

I watched sixteen minutes of that. He's really not good at placing gear. And he has a tinny sound system attached to himself playing shit like Boston. Is that it? Should I go back and soldier through more of it?

There's a part where he intentionally picks up a rock and silently tosses it out to the right. Later on in the video you see another party out in that direction.

SethGwrote:

I watched sixteen minutes of that. He's really not good at placing gear. And he has a tinny sound system attached to himself playing shit like Boston. Is that it? Should I go back and soldier through more of it?

That's about it. He had a few good placements but also several that could have been bad if he fell on them, looked like a lack of confidence in gear selection. We all gotta start somewhere tho, but it's always so nerve-wracking for me to watch new trad leaders going for it when they should probably get some more instruction first. 

And the music he was blasting at the start was actually Nickelback. 

A V wrote:

Worst case scenario, you get ripped on in this thread...

Nickelback is enough on its own for that. The rest is gravy.

If you didn't get to see the anchor (22 min in) you have missed out.. 

F Loydwrote:

If you didn't get to see the anchor (22 min in) you have missed out.. 

I watched about 2 minutes until I saw your post. That anchor....  yeeeeaaaaaa about that 

F Loydwrote:

If you didn't get to see the anchor (22 min in) you have missed out.. 

Uhhhhhh

K Gowrote:

Uhhhhhh

At least every single piece isn't placed in a detached block. Oh wait.... 

T Legowrote:

Biggest cringe so far is extending alpines on a route that goes straight up. Literally using Friends with built in extendable slings...they would be perfect for these placements. 

He also clipped his alpine draws straight to the thumbloop on every cam but one.
Is this a sport route? He's climbing a bolt line. 

Watch the last few seconds of the video and see the best way to use a boulder as pro.. 

Edit: ironically the dude's name is the same as that guy on weekend whipper who took the ground fall when 2 pieces popped..

mollycoddled anteaterwrote:

There's a part where he intentionally picks up a rock and silently tosses it out to the right. Later on in the video you see another party out in that direction.

Lol, I just saw this video this weekend before I saw this thread. I was so pissed that I actually commented. Glad someone else caught that... that is a pretty busy area and he just chucks it so casually. 

Alan Coonwrote:

I watched about 2 minutes until I saw your post. That anchor....  yeeeeaaaaaa about that 

SERENE, it is not. It earns a YGD: