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Upgrading from Tarantulaces- any suggestions to fill out Utah shoe quiver?

Original Post
Harrison Webb · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0

Currently rocking a pair of old tarantulaces that are approaching the end of their lifespan and a pair of LS otakis that are great for steep and techy stuff but are so tight that they're pretty unbearable for about anything else.. I'm looking for 1 or 2 pairs of shoes that I can use for more slabby/frictiony stuff and for harder trad/thinner cracks/can leave on for longer than 10 minutes as I start to push into harder grades gradually. Mostly climb on sandstone in southeast Utah currently (mix of crack + face climbing) but planning to spend more time in LCC and BCC as the weather gets good.

Been reading around and it seems like kinda tight moccs (for general use/warming up/slabby climbs) + reasonably sized katanas (more comfy than otakis/thinner cracks/edging) could be a good combo that, paired w the otakis, I could use for just about anything, but there are so many damn shoes out there that I'm curious what others think and what shoes other climbers who climb similar stuff are using. Cheers!

greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 276

I think katanas are a great all round shoe, including for lcc slab.   They smear great and honestly sometimes the harder slabs have smedging or edging on small nubs that they excel at.

mitchy B · · nunya gotdamn business. · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 0

Don’t rule out Acopa! The Aztec is probably more of what you are looking for in their current line. However, they are releasing three new styles this month. The B-3, Chameleon, and Enzo. Two Velcro, and a slipper.
Acopa are definitely worth a look. 

Pat Light · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

Katana Lace and TC Pro. That's the whole quiver 

Harrison Webb · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0
greggryllswrote:

I think katanas are a great all round shoe, including for lcc slab.   They smear great and honestly sometimes the harder slabs have smedging or edging on small nubs that they excel at.

Just tried on some katanas and they felt great! I can tell they would be super solid on tiny edges and nubs. Do you find they stretch out or soften up much?

Kevin N. · · Wenatchee · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,286

Some coyote lace would be sick! If you can find em

greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 276
Harrison Webbwrote:

Just tried on some katanas and they felt great! I can tell they would be super solid on tiny edges and nubs. Do you find they stretch out or soften up much?

Yes, not annoyingly so but they do.  

Harrison Webb · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0
Noel Mo wrote:

I'm considering upgrade from Tarantulas to Katana and can't try them on in a store due to Covid. Did they size the same as the Tarantulas?

I actually ended going a half size up from my tarantulaces (which is a whole size down from my street shoes). I think staying at the same size would probably be a more performance oriented fit, but I wanted to keep my toes mostly flat for jamming and didn’t want them sized too small so I could keep em on for multipitch days. They are much more downturned and much stiffer than the tarantulaces are. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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