Yet Another Bolt Remover

I started to make a separate spacer tube that would let the ball screw pull on hangers, but ended up making a separate device instead:

I cut a slot in a 3/4 coarse coupling nut big enough for a hanger, then drilled a 5/16" hole across the end. Tapped it at 3/8-16 on one side and bored out the other to 3/8" (the screw only bites on the far end). EZLok makes a threaded insert that is 1/2-20 on the inside and something bigger than 3/4" on the outside - I placed that at the top of the coupling nut. The body of the spacer is some 1/8" wall 3" x 2" extrusion with a 3/8" chunk of aluminum duct taped to the top and drilled for the threaded rod. 

Works.

old5ten wrote:

i'm wondering if there is a way to create an attachment for the yabr that will allow removal of 5/16 buttonheads?

Lately I have been using an old large head framing hammer that has a shallow angle claw to remove button heads.  Set the claw against the button head and use another hammer to hit the head of the framing hammer to drive the claw around the shaft of the button head.   It hasn't failed me yet.   Usually takes less than two minutes to wedge it out.

Gregger Man wrote:

I started to make a separate spacer tube that would let the ball screw pull on hangers, but ended up making a separate device instead:

I cut a slot in a 3/4 coarse coupling nut big enough for a hanger, then drilled a 5/16" hole across the end. Tapped it at 3/8-16 on one side and bored out the other to 3/8" (the screw only bites on the far end). EZLok makes a threaded insert that is 1/2-20 on the inside and something bigger than 3/4" on the outside - I placed that at the top of the coupling nut. The body of the spacer is some 1/8" wall 3" x 2" extrusion with a 3/8" chunk of aluminum duct taped to the top and drilled for the threaded rod. 

Works.

yes, i was thinking along the lines of a spacer tube.  just need to get my hands on an adapter that attaches to the yabr and bolt hanger.

in terms of other ways of pulling, tuning fork, etc., i've spent quite a bit of time pulling with those.  here are some takeaways:

- 5/16 is way harder than 1/4, especially when you don't weigh a lot and have spaghetti arms.

- tuning fork is too soft and deforms easily, especially with additional strain from 5/16.  it's really my least favorite tool out there and i only use it when i want to go light and it's an easy job.

- i've got a really nice crowbar that works well (and that i've been using), but it takes a long time and wears my elbows unless i take breaks between bolts and days pulling.  really want to save my body for climbing, rather than vertical construction.  that said, i very much enjoy the process of bolt replacement and giving back to the climbing community and have done so for the last 16+ years and hundreds of bolts.

the yabr is really an amazing tool and adapting it in a way that can pull 5/16 buttonheads would increase my efficiency in a big way, while decreasing wear and tear significantly.

old5ten,

It seems that you are assuming that 5/16" buttonheads (Rawl "Drive") bolts can be removed by pulling on the hanger. That is not my experience. When placed in hard rock, the holding power of these can exceed the strength of the hanger. I fabricated a puller which worked on 1/4" buttonheads. The 5/16" proved too stubborn.

You wrote that a "tuning fork is too soft and deforms easily". Are you referring to a Lost Arrow piton tuning fork? If so, then try a "tuning fork" with a 1" cold chisel with a 5/16" slot. My favorite tool. Rather than use a climbing hammer, try a heavier "engineer's hammer" if you are removing several bolts. 

I've broken Vaughan "Superbars" in the past. Prying with a crowbar is not very effective. It requires tremendous force and can be somewhat dangerous when it goes wrong. 

 Spanish "Lucky" brand hanger distorted by pulling. Stretched and pulled over the head of the bolt.

Old SMC hanger. Broke when pulled.

1" cold chisel with 5/16" slot. The tip is ground to a more acute angle.

Modified tile chisel. An additional tool for driving under the hanger initially. Acute angle at the tip.

ClimbBaja wrote:

old5ten,

It seems that you are assuming that 5/16" buttonheads (Rawl "Drive") bolts can be removed by pulling on the hanger. That is not my experience. When placed in hard rock, the holding power of these can exceed the strength of the hanger. I fabricated a puller which worked on 1/4" buttonheads. The 5/16" proved too stubborn.

yes, at this point it is an assumption.  greg actually sent me a hurley.  unfortunately, i've not been able to test it because tuolumne shut down just when i would have had some time.  i'm dealing mostly with 5/16 and smc hangers in various states of shape.

You wrote that a "tuning fork is too soft and deforms easily". Are you referring to a Lost Arrow piton tuning fork? 

yes, lost arrow tuning fork.

If so, then try a "tuning fork" with a 1" cold chisel with a 5/16" slot. My favorite tool. 

Rather than use a climbing hammer, try a heavier "engineer's hammer" if you are removing several bolts. 

pretty much used everything from yosemite hammer, dammerr, hd claw,  to three pound sledge and five pound sledge.  they all have their pros and cons, none are perfect...

Prying with a crowbar is not very effective. It requires tremendous force and can be somewhat dangerous when it goes wrong.

i hammer and pry with the crowbar.  one end is thin and has an acute angle (very much like your modified tile chisel) to get under the hanger.  the other end is used once the hanger sticks out a bit.  unfortunately, that end is a bit too thin, leading to more prying vs. letting the hammer/sledge do the work.  never had any problems in terms of safety.

1" cold chisel with 5/16" slot. The tip is ground to a more acute angle.

Modified tile chisel. An additional tool for driving under the hanger initially. Acute angle at the tip.

these look interesting!  did you grind the groove?

"these look interesting!  did you grind the groove?"

Yes. An angle grinder with cutoff wheel was used to make the lanyard groove.  Also to cut off the SDS end of the Bosch tile chisel. 

The thin nylon cord has a slipknot (with a double overhand) to cinch down into the groove.

The slot in the 1" cold chisel was also cut with a 4.5" cutoff wheel, the thinnest one. it cuts easily, and without much heat buildup. After making the 2 longitudinal slices, a few cuts removed chunks of metal out of the slot area. The deep end of the slot was then ground with a thicker wheel. 

ClimbBaja wrote:

"these look interesting!  did you grind the groove?"

Yes. An angle grinder with cutoff wheel was used to make the lanyard groove.  Also to cut off the SDS end of the Bosch tile chisel. 

The thin nylon cord has a slipknot (with a double overhand) to cinch down into the groove.

The slot in the 1" cold chisel was also cut with a 4.5" cutoff wheel, the thinnest one. it cuts easily, and without much heat buildup. After making the 2 longitudinal slices, a few cuts removed chunks of metal out of the slot area. The deep end of the slot was then ground with a thicker wheel. 

thanks for info and pics, i'll give the chisel a try ;-)

Hi all, we are starting on the next batch of 20 pullers. The tubing is being upgraded to stainless for this run, and you can select what size coupler(s) it comes with. Color may be different from the last batch. 

If you want to be on the list, and haven't submitted this form, please do so. 

The tools are $275 including US shipping. We can ship international if you cover the difference in shipping cost. 

Did you ever get a run of these made? If there are any extra not yet claimed I’d be interested. Thanks for your work on this

Tris Tarantino wrote:

Did you ever get a run of these made? If there are any extra not yet claimed I’d be interested. Thanks for your work on this

Cleatis has shipped the machined parts, and this batch should be ready to go out in the next week or so. 

Here's the form to fill out if you're interested in getting one https://forms.gle/4UhMqf4XuuVCZJCcA 

Thanks, 

Peter

They are going to be purple this round!

This Batch is ready to ship! Cleatis' parts/color choice look great! 

A couple changes from the last batch based on requests. The tubing is now stainless. You can also get additional couplers to pull most common bolts in metric or imperial sizes. 

If you already submitted the google form, you should be getting an email today to confirm your info. There are still a few of these that are unclaimed. If you want one, please submit this form to be added to the list. 

Cleatis - can you send me contact information so that i may order one of your extraction tools. Cheers, Vernon Phinney EICC hardware coordinator - dakota_griz@yahoo.com

If interested please fill out this form, and I'll follow up to confirm your info/order. There are still a few available.

Vernon, I sent you an email a few minutes ago.

I just finished replacing the ball screw on my YABR. User error resulted in some lost bb's when the retaining clip popped off. I used it till the ball screw completely failed. 

Very simple to disassemble, replace ball screw and resemble with Allen keys and a adjustable wrench. Good design Cleatis. 

Replacement ball screw from Aliexpress. Thanks MattM. $30 shipped. (Took about a month to arrive) While ordering I uploaded the following drawing from Gregger Man. They machined m10 threads on the top. Easy to screw a nut on as a keeper to fix my original issue. 

Super happy with the YABR after 2 years and 100 bolts or so. Pretty reassuring that $30 and twenty minutes with basic tools brings the YABR back to life if you mess up the ball thread.

Bobby Hutton wrote:

I just finished replacing the ball screw on my YABR. User error resulted in some lost bb's when the retaining clip popped off. I used it till the ball screw completely failed. 

Very simple to disassemble, replace ball screw and resemble with Allen keys and a adjustable wrench. Good design Cleatis. 

Replacement ball screw from Aliexpress. Thanks MattM. $30 shipped. (Took about a month to arrive) While ordering I uploaded the following drawing from Gregger Man. They machined m10 threads on the top. Easy to screw a nut on as a keeper to fix my original issue. 

Super happy with the YABR after 2 years and 100 bolts or so. Pretty reassuring that $30 and twenty minutes with basic tools brings the YABR back to life if you mess up the ball thread.

You can order a 16mm ball nut off ebay instead if you need parts quicker. I found a ball nut for $17 that shipped from a warehouse nearby after I ruined the plastic channel covers on mine. The ball screw itself doesn't see much wear and tear.

There are still a couple tools left from this batch. Here's a link for the interest form again if you'd like one of them.

Based on Bobby's post, I ordered some extra ball screws/nuts that are available for replacements so folks don't have to do separate orders to China, and wait for the international shipping. $30 shipped. 

Also have some extras of most other parts if any other components wear out.

Peter Thomas wrote:

Also have some extras of most other parts if any other components wear out.

Hi Peter, is it possible to just get a threaded SDS spinner tool/bit?  I have one of the original YABR’s and it wasn’t offered as a part of the deal back then.  I’m in Canada so I can’t get one from the Access Society directly.  

The other day, I was perhaps lazy in leaving the washer on a wedge bolt when i spun and then pulled with the YABR.  I wasn't thinking clearly, and the cone caught the lip of the washer right at the edge and chipped the hole. So... don't do that. 

I got to use my YABR yesterday and it was awesome! The ball screw is much nicer then a Hurley for providing feedback about the resistance of the pull, less likely to break a stud. I did have the top plastic bearing cap fall out but I was able to screw it back in and tighten the set screws and it’s fine. Check your set screws before using it the first time. It’s the tiny screw on the left in this picture. Thanks Cleatis and Peter!