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Yosemite Offwidth #4 & #5 cracks

Original Post
Tyler S · · Oakhurst CA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 65

I’m looking for recommendations or a list of some offwidth cracks in Yosemite from 5.9 and up that have lots of #4 and #5 camalot sized jams. No luck searching the forums yet. I can find offwidth lists but offwidth is a wide category. 

Climberdude · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

Generator crack?  A couple others in tuolumne from what I remember also

Cole Darby · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 166

Trial by fire 

Reeds

Generator

And read the supertopo thread “road to twilight zone”

Andy Wiesner · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 35

Only one I've been on is Trial by Fire (thought I was gonna pass out). The Meyers and Reid book indexes the climbs by crack width. In the 3.5" - 8" category:

Scott Sinner · · Reno, NV · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 35

You are looking for Mental Block 10c, in the Sentinel Creek area.  It’s really good.  Enjoy

M A · · CA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 22
Andy Wiesnerwrote:

Only one I've been on is Trial by Fire (thought I was gonna pass out). The Meyers and Reid book indexes the climbs by crack width. In the 3.5" - 8" category:

Trial by Fire is perhaps the easiest-looking hard climb I've ever done. It looks like a 4th class trough. Boy it is not. 

Steph Evans · · Belgrade, MT · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0

Trial by fire is more of a chinmey flare heel toe scum fest

Apron jam can be an ow(stacks)or a lie back + you can climb mr natural after!

Doggie do(easy to set tr). chigando is a good one

Generator and twilight zone 

Space invaders and bad ass mamma near the royal arches area.

Sprayloard Overstoker · · Conquistador of the Useless · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 220

Cream.

Nick C · · NH · Joined May 2017 · Points: 1,446

Steppin' out is mostly 5s with some cruxy thinner sections.

 The second pitch of yin yang is 4s and 5s until it opens up into a chimney for the last half of the pitch. 

Midterm has a short section as it goes from fists to chimney. 

Copper penny is steep 4s and 5s except for the fact that you can cheat it with a jug rail, so not a whole lot of stacking if you don't want to. 

Definitely chingando as others have said.

A great practice ow in Tuolumne is Enemy Within at Olmsted Canyon.

Yannick Gingras · · On the road, mostly Southwest · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 302

Moby Dick is a highway of #4's. You should also top rope Ahab while you are there.

Cole Darby · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 166

Top of moby dick is great for 4!

So is a lot of reeds pitch 2

And the last pitch of sons has a fun 5.8 fists bit 

John Clark · · BLC · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,408

Mental block literally has a full pitch of just 5. Cannot recommend enough

Sprayloard Overstoker · · Conquistador of the Useless · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 220
Cole Darbywrote:

Top of moby dick is great for 4!

So is a lot of reeds pitch 2

And the last pitch of sons has a fun 5.8 fists bit 

Top of Moby dick is 3.5"....it takes 4" cams....buts its fist for most.

Cole Darby · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 166
Sprayloard Overstokerwrote:

Top of Moby dick is 3.5"....it takes 4" cams....buts its fist for most.

good point, I always conflate 4" with placing #4s.

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,043

From Clint's Website (It's no longer hosted so you have to use the waybackmachine to grab the info - the same document will have listing of the climbs in yosemite by all other types such as hands, squeeze, fingers, etc)

https://web.archive.org/web/20190527074833/ web.stanford.edu/~clint/yos… (The linking is weird so copy paste the whole thing into your browser window, and MP keeps truncating the link so the last part should be ~clint/yos/YOSTYP.HTM  ) 

Offwidth 

  • 1046. Supertoe Left 5.7
  • 143. River Boulder - West Side 5.8
  • 502. Nob Hill Ropist 5.8
  • 848. Little John - Left 5.8 *
  • 1143. True Grit 5.8
  • 18. Sawyer Crack 5.9
  • 161. Kat Pinnacle - Northwest Corner p3 var. 5.9
  • 317. Moss O Menos 5.9
  • 336. Prime Time 5.9
  • 682. Side Kick 5.9
  • 843. La Cosita - Left Variation 5.9 *
  • 1097. Sow Sow Sow p1 5.9
  • 2112. Apron Jam 5.9 *
  • 2227. Tithe 5.9
  • 2292. Tilted Mitten - Center 5.9
  • 2297. The Sphinxter 5.9
  • 2305. The Mummy's Revenge 5.9
  • 2716. Bridwell Corner 5.9 *
  • 227. The Cleft 5.9+ R *
  • 816. Peter Pan 5.9+ *
  • 179. Banana Dreams 5.10a
  • 208. Cookie - Left 5.10a
  • 449. This and That p1 5.10a *
  • 532. Mongolian Clusterfuck 5.10a R
  • 556. Chingando 5.10a *
  • 568. Reed's Pinnacle - Left Side 5.10a *
  • 582. Bongs Away - Center 5.10a
  • 632. Copper Penny 5.10a *
  • 801. The Hourglass - Right Side 5.10a
  • 884. Gollum - Left Side 5.10a
  • 1064. Orange Juice Avenue 5.10a *
  • 1098. Sow Sow Sow 5.10a
  • 1185. Absolutely Free - Right Side 5.10a R/X
  • 1235. Secret Storm 5.10a *
  • 1238. Doggie Do 5.10a
  • 1498. Geek Towers - Center Route 5.10a
  • 1500. Geek Towers - Right Side 5.10a A2
  • 2003. Milk Dud 5.10a
  • 2301. Yin-Yang p2 5.10a
  • 2710. Colliver Pinnacle - Inside Face 5.10a
  • 2800. Pink Dream 5.10a ***
  • 2804. Crack of Doom 5.10a *
  • 2805. Crack of Despair 5.10a *
  • 218. Vendetta 5.10b *
  • 837. The Slack - Left Side 5.10b
  • 1077. Dick Wrenching Classic 5.10b
  • 1285. Smoky Pillar 5.10b
  • 2659. Pulpit Pooper 5.10b *
  • 2690. Jam Session 5.10b *
  • 819. Peter Left 5.10b/c *
  • 2728. Battle-Ship 5.10
  • 220. Vendetta p5 left var. 5.10c
  • 323. Mr. Wide 5.10c
  • 462. Generator Crack 5.10c TR *
  • 733. Wild Turkey 5.10c *
  • 1234. Edge of Night 5.10c *
  • 1257. Fallout 5.10c
  • 2295. Mental Block 5.10c **
  • 2593. Barefoot Servants 5.10c
  • 105. The Bin 5.10d *
  • 118. Extra Credit 5.10d
  • 190. Twilight Zone 5.10d **
  • 519. The Shaft 5.10d
  • 616. Steppin' Out 5.10d **
  • 2788. Plumb Line 5.10d *
  • 66. A Desperate Kneed 5.11a *
  • 1721. Power Failure 5.11a **
  • 2689. Cream 5.11a **
  • 1782. Basket Case 5.11b
  • 101. GRE 5.11
  • 698. Scab Laborer 5.11c TR
  • 1496. Freestone 5.11c ***
  • 2785. Jaws 5.12a TR
  • 925. Excalibur p8 5.12b
  • 926. Excalibur p9 5.12c
  • 927. Excalibur p13 5.12d
Jaxon Stuhr · · Santa Barbara, CA · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 47

WTF is Excalibur and why is it making me want to go hide in a closet

Sprayloard Overstoker · · Conquistador of the Useless · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 220
Jaxon Stuhrwrote:

WTF is Excalibur and why is it making me want to go hide in a closet

El Cap brajie. Those pitches were freed by Steve Schneider in his prime. One of the very few who has nailed legit A5 and climbed 5.14....just another Valley Legend.

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,043
M Awrote:

Trial by Fire is perhaps the easiest-looking hard climb I've ever done. It looks like a 4th class trough. Boy it is not. 

FACT

Tyler S · · Oakhurst CA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 65

Thanks for all the info. This list is looking awesome, keep adding if you think of anything else that shouldn’t be missed. Hopefully I can get into the Valley this weekend and get intimate with some of these. 

Max R · · Bend · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 292
Jaxon Stuhrwrote:

WTF is Excalibur and why is it making me want to go hide in a closet


Rob Dillon · · Tamarisk Clearing · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 726

Rostrum, N Face, pitch 6: one #5 C4 gets it done, and the approach is pretty cool. The topout’s not bad either. Do it soon!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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