Yosemite Offwidth #4 & #5 cracks
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I’m looking for recommendations or a list of some offwidth cracks in Yosemite from 5.9 and up that have lots of #4 and #5 camalot sized jams. No luck searching the forums yet. I can find offwidth lists but offwidth is a wide category. |
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Generator crack? A couple others in tuolumne from what I remember also |
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Trial by fire Reeds Generator And read the supertopo thread “road to twilight zone” |
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Only one I've been on is Trial by Fire (thought I was gonna pass out). The Meyers and Reid book indexes the climbs by crack width. In the 3.5" - 8" category: |
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You are looking for Mental Block 10c, in the Sentinel Creek area. It’s really good. Enjoy |
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Andy Wiesnerwrote: Trial by Fire is perhaps the easiest-looking hard climb I've ever done. It looks like a 4th class trough. Boy it is not. |
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Trial by fire is more of a chinmey flare heel toe scum fest Apron jam can be an ow(stacks)or a lie back + you can climb mr natural after! Doggie do(easy to set tr). chigando is a good one Generator and twilight zone Space invaders and bad ass mamma near the royal arches area. |
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Cream. |
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Steppin' out is mostly 5s with some cruxy thinner sections. The second pitch of yin yang is 4s and 5s until it opens up into a chimney for the last half of the pitch. Midterm has a short section as it goes from fists to chimney. Copper penny is steep 4s and 5s except for the fact that you can cheat it with a jug rail, so not a whole lot of stacking if you don't want to. Definitely chingando as others have said. A great practice ow in Tuolumne is Enemy Within at Olmsted Canyon. |
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Moby Dick is a highway of #4's. You should also top rope Ahab while you are there. |
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Top of moby dick is great for 4! So is a lot of reeds pitch 2 And the last pitch of sons has a fun 5.8 fists bit |
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Mental block literally has a full pitch of just 5. Cannot recommend enough |
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Cole Darbywrote: Top of Moby dick is 3.5"....it takes 4" cams....buts its fist for most. |
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Sprayloard Overstokerwrote: good point, I always conflate 4" with placing #4s. |
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From Clint's Website (It's no longer hosted so you have to use the waybackmachine to grab the info - the same document will have listing of the climbs in yosemite by all other types such as hands, squeeze, fingers, etc) https://web.archive.org/web/20190527074833/ web.stanford.edu/~clint/yos… (The linking is weird so copy paste the whole thing into your browser window, and MP keeps truncating the link so the last part should be ~clint/yos/YOSTYP.HTM ) Offwidth
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WTF is Excalibur and why is it making me want to go hide in a closet |
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Jaxon Stuhrwrote: El Cap brajie. Those pitches were freed by Steve Schneider in his prime. One of the very few who has nailed legit A5 and climbed 5.14....just another Valley Legend. |
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M Awrote: FACT |
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Thanks for all the info. This list is looking awesome, keep adding if you think of anything else that shouldn’t be missed. Hopefully I can get into the Valley this weekend and get intimate with some of these. |
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Rostrum, N Face, pitch 6: one #5 C4 gets it done, and the approach is pretty cool. The topout’s not bad either. Do it soon! |









