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BD Ultralight Ice Screws steel bit separating from aluminum screw tube..

Garry Reiss · · Guelph, ON · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 6

No recall?

Stiles · · the Mountains · Joined May 2003 · Points: 845
Mike Schreiner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 0

I assumed those tips were threaded onto the shaft the way a steel cylinder barrel is threaded into an aluminum head on an air cooled engine.  I guess I was wrong.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,762
Mike Schreinerwrote:

I assumed those tips were threaded onto the shaft the way a steel cylinder barrel is threaded into an aluminum head on an air cooled engine.  I guess I was wrong.

The e-climb Klau screw tip is threaded on.

Tan guy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 0
Garry Reisswrote:

No recall?

it isn't a big safety issue, the weight is holding of the aluminum part. if it's your last screw and it fail while your trying to place it , it can be really bad for sure. but it would be really bad luck
So the risk is very marginal I think.

Eriks Rozners · · Binghamton, NY · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 501
Double Jwrote:

Damn, I have carried 16 screws before in pure ice routes...

I use almost exclusively Petzl light ones and have not had any issues. I have carried 17 on PT at Poko, though I did not use them, they boosted my confidence, and I will do it again. I have huge respect for climbers who place protection and do not believe in those who take pride in running it out. You actually need more strength and endurance to stop and place an extra screw. I personally know two very strong climbers who were severely injured because they did not place protection on easy terrain. Accidents, happen. Enjoy the entire game, including stoping to place an extra screw. Back to the topic - Petzl light screws really made this feasible. The weight savings are amazing.

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25
Eriks Roznerswrote:

....I have carried 17 on PT at Poko, though I did not use them....

Well shit.  If you’re gonna carry 17, at least place one or two!  ;)

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847
Mark Pilatewrote:

Well shit.  If you’re gonna carry 17, at least place one or two!  ;)

Maybe his ex was belaying him.

Eriks Rozners · · Binghamton, NY · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 501
Mark Pilatewrote:

Well shit.  If you’re gonna carry 17, at least place one or two!  ;)

If you are so curious, I placed 12 on P1.

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

 PT has a bolted belay after P1. P2 the buisness is short. P3 is easy so I would probobly carry 12 but everyone is different.  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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