New climber hoping to climb out in Ibex, UT

I'm looking to climb in Ibex. I haven't ever done any lead so am looking to follow up to 5.8 trad (may be a stretch) and 5.10b sport. It looks like a beautiful, remote area with fun climbs, and possibly less snowy during the winter than SLC.

I'm also able/down to lead belay on higher-grade routes.

Let me know if you're interested! We could meet there if you're coming from the south or I can drive if we're both heading south to get there. I'm good at snacks and enjoy conversation but also respect/honor quiet if we both want to just enjoy nature.

It is a super great area. Just beware of windy conditions. Winter climbing there is certainly possible, though the main crag will be in the shade in the afternoon and it will become quite cold. The warm point boulders are nice and get more sun. There is a lot of moderate bouldering around if you are willing to look beyond the problems that have chalk on them or are in the guidebook / on mtn proj. Just wander around and find your own boulders! Have fun.

Thank you Eric, that is good info to know. Any rope climbs you enjoyed best there?

I would love to join, Diego. What time are you guys planning on being there? 

I didn't get the message, not sure what happened. Can you try again? lol

Annelise,

I wouldn't be too intimidated by the trad vs sport distinction at a place like ibex, in terms of what you think you'll be able to follow. It is a great but a little bit weird style of climbing involving cruxy bulges, friction, crimps, slopers, and footwork more than fitness / endurance--there are usally a lot of rests on the climbs if you know where to take them. There are some cracks but very little put crack climbing. There is a 3-4 pitch 5.7 that is worth doing, I forget what it is called. Quartermoon chimney is a 5.9 (3 pitches) that is very memorable. The newlywed wall and surrounding area has some nice moderates and might be a nice place to start. 

Whatever you do, don't climb Aguamelon! It's in no way a "5.8 Classic" 

It's awful. Trust me. 

Nate Hodorekwrote:

Whatever you do, don't climb Aguamelon! It's in no way a "5.8 Classic" 

It's awful. Trust me. 

  Now I feel like I probably should...

Eric Chabotwrote:

Annelise,

I wouldn't be too intimidated by the trad vs sport distinction at a place like ibex, in terms of what you think you'll be able to follow. It is a great but a little bit weird style of climbing involving cruxy bulges, friction, crimps, slopers, and footwork more than fitness / endurance--there are usally a lot of rests on the climbs if you know where to take them. There are some cracks but very little put crack climbing. There is a 3-4 pitch 5.7 that is worth doing, I forget what it is called. Quartermoon chimney is a 5.9 (3 pitches) that is very memorable. The newlywed wall and surrounding area has some nice moderates and might be a nice place to start. 

Those sound great. Of what I've done so far multi-pitch is what I enjoy most so I'll have to check out those ones. Thanks!

Nate Hodorekwrote:

Whatever you do, don't climb Aguamelon! It's in no way a "5.8 Classic" 

It's awful. Trust me. 

I thought Augumelon was heady for sure, but a great little climb! Not your typical Ibex climb.

Annelise Allenwrote:

  Now I feel like I probably should...

You probably should