2020-2021 Colorado Ice Conditions

Tony’s Nightmare in Officer’s Gulch as of 12/11/20 

It was really wet when we were on it. Particularly, toward the top of the main flow.

Round the corner thinner than usual but climbing well.  Mixed line to the right mostly dry.  Fish is very dry as well.  Snow shedding in those gullies.  

Hidden Falls in RMNP Wild Basin as of 12/16.

This is the WI3-4 Hidden Falls Main

Has anyone been to the Sherman Ice near Lake City and know its conditions? 

Loch Vale on 12/13

Robson Glasscockwrote:

Loch Vale on 12/13

I was literally just talking about this to someone when I saw, it doesn't really look like anything is climbable? Was there any other potentially climbable ice? Showshoes required on trail?

Alex Langfieldwrote:

I was literally just talking about this to someone when I saw, it doesn't really look like anything is climbable? Was there any other potentially climbable ice? Showshoes required on trail?

Snowshoes weren't needed. The trail is bootpacked. Some guys got on that main flow that you can see in the middle. I wasn't climbing that day so I didn't get a closer look at anything else- just walked up, snapped some pics and kept hiking with my wife

. 

Alec V finishing up on a Colorado Classic.  

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The shroud 12/18

Robson Glasscockwrote:

Snowshoes weren't needed. The trail is bootpacked.

.

Walked by Loch Vale yesterday (12/18) and it looks much the same as the above photo. Same beta re trail conditions.

Timberline Falls was in good shape with two fun WI3 flows.

Pics from 12/22 Vail

Eraser

Pencil-Belfry

Spiral Staircase--bashed out and thin. Screws bottom out in areas.--- Slabutt to the left is totally out.

We broke trail over from the short rope up above the amphitheater over to the Belfry drainage if you are interested. 

Rigid is in for those much harder than me. The luge down from Spiral has been buffed out by my 200+ plus self. You are welcome.  

jbarnumwrote:

Pics from 12/22 Vail

Eraser

Pencil-Belfry

Spiral Staircase--bashed out and thin. Screws bottom out in areas.--- Slabutt to the left is totally out.

We broke trail over from the short rope up above the amphitheater over to the Belfry drainage if you are interested. 

Rigid is in for those much harder than me. The luge down from Spiral has been buffed out by my 200+ plus self. You are welcome.  

Dang, Spiral looks HORRIBLE. Visibly shrinking. We need some snow!!

Did Martha on 12/25. First crux was totally dry. After that there was some snow and even snice on the rest of the route but still mostly using rock at the steeper parts. Maybe after this weeks storm and a few days of sun it will actually have some ice. 

Caleb Johnsonwrote:

Did Martha on 12/25. First crux was totally dry. After that there was some snow and even snice on the rest of the route but still mostly using rock at the steeper parts. Maybe after this weeks storm and a few days of sun it will actually have some ice. 

FFS people, Martha is a spring climb!  Don't go up there when it is a dry choss-fest!  Doing so is inviting injury or worse.

Philip Magistrowrote:

FFS people, Martha is a spring climb!  Don't go up there when it is a dry choss-fest!  Doing so is inviting injury or worse.

Anyone have any idea what the ice on the upper left is, on the East side of Thatchtop? The ice in the lower right portion is Jewell, as seen from the turnoff towards Jewell in Glacier Gorge.

Silver Plume 12/28

Right side-WI-2 maybe. Takes some screws in aerated rot. Did TR the center line which is delicate up top. Please don't bash on this until it gets thicker. Didn't touch the left side. Very brittle.

This is the upper falls above the main flow. Looks great-it ain't. WI 1.8. 

Top of upper flow. Water running down the middle. 

Lone bolt above the upper flow with a very flexy hanger just on body weight. Can be backed up with screws.

This is the anchor above the left side of the main flow. I post this because probably most of the time it is surrounded by snow which makes it difficult to assess. It is a detached block sitting on mine tailings and rotten hundred year old timber, with the bolts just in the right spot to get the leverage you need to pull it off. This thing is begging to be an entry into North Americans Accidents. I have used this thing in the past when I didn't really take note of the anchors I was using, figuring all were bomber. The rock could be in place for 100 hundred more years or fall down tomorrow. If you were attached to this thing it would drag you down to 70 and maybe Georgetown. Be careful. I would be willing to help with getting a new anchor in the area. It may have to be chains or cable off of uphill trees.---on another note this whole area has so much water, if farmed it could produce some crazy results. If you have experience with that PM me. Could be interesting.

Very lousy iPhone photo of upper eagle lake ice. Looks like it’s in, couldn’t see the lower formation. Mertensia falls pillar is only like halfway in.

Evan Gerrywrote:

Very lousy iPhone photo of upper eagle lake ice. Looks like it’s in, couldn’t see the lower formation. Mertensia falls pillar is only like halfway in.

Oh now you've done it.  Spilled the beans.  Gonna be two dozen parties hacking it up this weekend.

  ;)

Philip Magistrowrote:

Oh now you've done it.  Spilled the beans.  Gonna be two dozen parties hacking it up this weekend.

  ;)

LOL...not likely.  Too many people not willing to do the approach :)