Worst routes in the RRG

Threat Level Blue at What About Bob

Short By a Foot. Too short, sandy, often wet, awkward mantle move. 

DrRockso RRGwrote:

Short By a Foot. Too short, sandy, often wet, awkward mantle move. 

Wait, aren’t you the same person who gave this route 4 stars? :)

I actually thought this one was not bad, other than being short. 

I second the left-most routes at bruise bros... pine needle shuffle followed closely by dirt in eye. Also Imminent Demise in the bowling alley... the movement is okay, but the pockets are the worst. I'll also say International house of pancakes... never climbed it but one look at it's nah that looks awful.

Douglas Kempthornewrote:

I second the left-most routes at bruise bros... pine needle shuffle followed closely by dirt in eye. Also Imminent Demise in the bowling alley... the movement is okay, but the pockets are the worst. I'll also say International house of pancakes... never climbed it but one look at it's nah that looks awful.

IROP is a decent little route. If you looked at IROP and thought this looks shitty but looked at Dirt in the Eye and Pine Needle Shuffle and thought 'these will be fun' I'm worried about your judgement. You might very well be a choss hunter. 

Where's my chisel at Sunbeam Buttress

Mr. P. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107860429/waterfall-ballet

Just about everything at this godforsaken crag, but this took the cake.  If you attempt it in the summer (late, even!), you’ll have to contend with massive spiders (I saw one the size of my fist and backed the fuck off) that build massive webs across each of the successive sandy ledges you pull onto (nothing says “5 stars” like mantling straight into one).  Oh, and the whole wall is basically permanently wet and taken over by the wilds...and you get to walk past all the shirtless bro crews at Great Wall.

Ted Pinsonwrote:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107860429/waterfall-ballet

Just about everything at this godforsaken crag, but this took the cake.  If you attempt it in the summer (late, even!), you’ll have to contend with massive spiders (I saw one the size of my fist and backed the fuck off) that build massive webs across each of the successive sandy ledges you pull onto (nothing says “5 stars” like mantling straight into one).  Oh, and the whole wall is basically permanently wet and taken over by the wilds...and you get to walk past all the shirtless bro crews at Great Wall.

Ouch! how badly did you fail? ;)

It certainly isn't a very popular crag, but it is a fun route. If summertime spiders and shirtless bros at nearby walls disqualified routes, the entire RRG should be a total bomb.

Mr P may be poorly bolted, but it is a really fun climb. Earth Surfer is also really good, and not dirty at all. This list is funny, and it's also funny you're asking for it.

+1 for Mentee

Left of Hypocrite at The Zoo is a classicly 0 star 12a. Looks dirty as can be.

Route left of Gold Rush looks pretty bad. Supposedly has been sent, although still has some "closed looking" tag/biner on the firts bolt.

If youre looking for some good climbing that just needs a brush, check out the slightly harder stuff towards the beginning of Crossroads. Technical vert that never gets climbed and needs some traffic to stay clean.

Any trad climb at Velo may peak your interest. Most are pretty dirty. Also, the trad climbing at Fruit Wall can be pretty dirty too. Basically, a lot of the trad at Southern region crags.

Shipyard sheds pretty bad, so can probably count on some sandy routes around.

Camelot for sure. Tons of bad easy stuff. Quite a few fun ones though too.

Btw, Crumblies has cleaned up into a great climb, in case you're doing your own research and the name jumps out at you.

RRRwrote:

Mr P may be poorly bolted, but it is a really fun climb. Earth Surfer is also really good, and not dirty at all. This list is funny, and it's also funny you're asking for it.

+1 for Mentee

Left of Hypocrite at The Zoo is a classicly 0 star 12a. Looks dirty as can be.

Route left of Gold Rush looks pretty bad. Supposedly has been sent, although still has some "closed looking" tag/biner on the firts bolt.

If youre looking for some good climbing that just needs a brush, check out the slightly harder stuff towards the beginning of Crossroads. Technical vert that never gets climbed and needs some traffic to stay clean.

Any trad climb at Velo may peak your interest. Most are pretty dirty. Also, the trad climbing at Fruit Wall can be pretty dirty too. Basically, a lot of the trad at Southern region crags.

Shipyard sheds pretty bad, so can probably count on some sandy routes around.

Camelot for sure. Tons of bad easy stuff. Quite a few fun ones though too.

Btw, Crumblies has cleaned up into a great climb, in case you're doing your own research and the name jumps out at you.

Thanks RRR! The stuff at the "Crossroads" look exactly like what I'm looking for. As for everything else, I'm excited to check them out especially the stuff people say is bad but you say is actually pretty fun! I think I'm going to make a list of all the routes and post a final version here to keep track of everything!

If dirty vert is your game then check out the routes between Gold Rush and Random Precision at the Gallery.

Also, steeper dirtier stuff could be found at the Getaway. That whole area is great climbing on holds that make you question things.

WLongwrote:

Threat Level Blue at What About Bob

This is truly a horrible climb.

This, Mudhole, should definitely be a contender.
Saw it, and walked away.
But, if you love concrete ramp aretes that look like a cultured sewage runoff, and your belayer loves standing in tight damp and dark spaces, this might be just the route that will get you wet.
It is protected by solid looking glue-ins, which seems like a good idea since everything else would insta-rust in a season.

amariuswrote:

This, Mudhole, should definitely be a contender.
Saw it, and walked away.
But, if you love concrete ramp aretes that look like a cultured sewage runoff, and your belayer loves standing in tight damp and dark spaces, this might be just the route that will get you wet.
It is protected by solid looking glue-ins, which seems like a good idea since everything else would insta-rust in a season.

You didn’t believe me when I described it, had to see for yourself, didn’t you? 

Lena chitawrote:

You didn’t believe me when I described it, had to see for yourself, didn’t you? 

I believe you, all right, but, in my defense,  really, who could believe that the thing you were describing got bolted? Had to check myself.

Silicosis at the Deep End. Surfin' the Whale's Back at the Boneyard.

Both are perma-mank and mostly covered in lichen, moss, and sand.

Billy Simekwrote:

Silicosis at the Deep End. Surfin' the Whale's Back at the Boneyard.

Both are perma-mank and mostly covered in lichen, moss, and sand.

Billy: this route is perma mank. 

• Also Billy: hey I'm going to bolt a route right next to the one I just called perma mank.

Crazy Eyes at the Brightside is particularly bad.  Definitely the worst route I have bolted.