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First Set of Half Ropes

Tom Vil · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

Any other feedbacks about the Edelrid Canary 8.6?

I'm planning on buying a half rope, so my initial bet was going for the classic Mammut Genesis 8.5, but when browsing I came across the Canary, and because of a sale, I can buy either for roughly the same price. It's triple rated, so it's on the league of Serenity, Switft and the like. But even then, comparing it side by side with the Genesis (or even the Kestrels), other than having 2-3 extra g/m, the Canary seems same or better in almost every aspect, and durable as well (sheath 47%). And being triple rated!

Does it make sense for using it as a main half rope? Any feedbacks from experience using ti? Or any comments about durability?

Thx in advance!

John B · · Calgary · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 10

Hey guys, sorry for re-opening an existing thread but i need your help..

I can get a huge discount on Petzl rumba 8.0 ropes and was hoping you guys could help me decide on what to buy....
my goal is to get a half rope setup  60m for long approach 10+ pitch rock routes to reduce rope drag and facilitate long raps....

everywhere i look i cant find many reviews about the Rumba as its a newish rope... have any of you used it extensively??   here are its stats:

  • Diameter: 8 mm
  • half rope, twin rope
  • Weight per meter: 44 g
  • Percentage of sheath: 41 %
  • Number of factor 1,77 falls: 7 (half rope), 22 (twin rope)
  • Impact force: 5,9 kN (half rope), 9.6 kN (twin rope)

most people love petzl ropes but they dont seem to be durable and reviews  drop heavily after a few years of ownership (maybe they are expecting them to last to long? and dont have much experience with rope longevity?)  and im worried about saftey as well,  plus there are reviews that say it is heavier then advertised 44 g/m, and actually 49 g/m.

i really want the Edelrid Canarys 8.6mm but its hard to get them here in canada cheaply and would cost me 130% more,  plus petzl ropes are manufactured by Edelrid anyways.
though the number of falls looks simply amazing at 5 single 24 double 30 twin and 51 g/m...

i can also get a decent deal on the Mammut Serenity 8.7mm which are amazing at 5 single falls,  51 g/m,  and 36% sheath..  plus mammut have such good abrasion resistance but at 60% cost increase of the rumbas

TLDR

does anyone have any experience with the Petzl Rumba 8.0 half/twin ropes?

Adam Gellman · · Bellingham WA · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 311

no experience with Rumbas but commenting cause im also curious and would like to bump this thread

coppolillo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 70

Are you sure the Petzl ropes are made by Edelrid? I thought they were Tendon, but I could be wrong...


Canaries are amazing, 47% sheath vs 38% for Mammut Serenity and 35% for Beal Opera....tough/durable, handle super well....


that Serenity is an awesome rope, too!

I have not used petzl ropes....sorry, can’t compare!

tom donnelly · · san diego · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 405

I have the PMI Verglas and they have been fine.

https://pmirope.com/product/8-1-mm-verglas-dynamic-rope/

Fabien M · · Cannes · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 5
Genie Geniewrote:

How's the durability been in the Beal operas?

I own a 30 and a 50 and have been using both heavily, for the past 2 years, from the gym to the crag or in the alpine (rock and ice)
I don't see any durability issue so far, I love the weight and the handeling, recommended!

B G · · New England · Joined May 2018 · Points: 41

John B didn't get any comments back in 2018, but I'm interested to know if people have experience with the Rumbas? Given that they are 8mm half ropes - how do people feel about climbing as a group of three with an 8mm rope? I see a lot more ropes getting triple rated these days.

wilcox510 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 0

Has anyone used the Black Diamond 7.0 twin ropes (yes, those are twins, not half ropes, but thats what im looking for)

Jason Magness · · Portsmouth, NH · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 0

Get triple rated ropes.  Having the flexibility of using the ropes as singles is invaluable especially if you are in a remote setting or traveling.

Fabien M · · Cannes · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 5
Jason Magnesswrote:

Get triple rated ropes.  Having the flexibility of using the ropes as singles is invaluable especially if you are in a remote setting or traveling.

I suggest a compromise for weight saving  which is also the set up I’m using: 

One 50 meters triple rated beal opera + one 50 meters half rope beal gully 

Nick Haha · · Choosing the path less trav… · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 365

What rope did everyone end up going with?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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