Suggestions for early Gunks 5.10s
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I'm just starting to break into leading in the 5.10s, having led Beatle Brow Bulge, Never never land, and Retribution. When I was breaking into easier grades I found a ton of threads here and elsewhere suggesting good intro routes, but I'm having less luck on 10s, beyond this thread, which mentions some sadly-defunct gunks.com threads as great resources. I'm hoping to build out a list of 5-10 routes to try to get up before the season ends, so I'd be really curious to hear folks' suggestions for relatively G-rated routes that will introduce me to a variety of 5.10 movement. Thanks in advance! |
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I remember "amber waves of pain " being pretty straight forward and G rated |
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Wegetables, Teeny Face, Le Teton (direct version up arete), Try Again, Star Action, Feast of Fools, Simple Suff. I think amber waves of pain is border-line R and wouldn't recommend for braking into 10s. there are also bunch of 9+ routes to get you ready. if you haven't done keep on struttin :) and all in the Trapps! |
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I agree with the previous suggestions. My first Gunks 10 was City Streets ( we're talking late 70s), and Balrog nearby is a sew up. They are given 10b. At the Nears, the first pitch of Cross Cross is great, 10a and a sew up. The second pitch is also great but not a sew up! Either rap or have your partner lead it like I did |
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Doubleissima! |
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For variety: Sonja (wear gloves) |
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Dat Mantle, Dis Mantle, City Streets, Beetle Brow Bulge, Coprophagia. |
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Hi! I'm looking for someone to teach me how to lead climb. Willing to pay. Currently top rope 5.10. Based in NYC. // Looking for a top rope buddy who can build anchors. Thanks!!! |
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Julia, I sent you a PM |
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The Spring (the way the app draws the line, not the classic way). |
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Thanks, all! Led Criss Cross Direct today and followed Wegetables over the weekend; looking forward to getting on many of these over the next couple of weeks. |
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Josh Swrote: Did you get my PM? |
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Gunkiemikewrote: Oh, thanks so much for checking...it went to my filtered email in gmail and I never saw it. Just searched and found it though, responding now! |
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Also it depends on your style. My first choice would be something like Feast of Fools. My partner recommends never never land to everyone as a first 10 and TBH it will be the last one on my list because I suck on slabs. |
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I did 'simple suff' pretty early on in my gunks 10's adventures fwiw not your typical gunks climbing I'll admit but worth a look |
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doubleissima is the easy 10 i remember most. super fun route. P-38, low exposure, nosedive, the dangler are all short ones that would be good. i remember the gear at the start of simple suff being kind of funky, but maybe i didn't have my normal rack that day. the gunks has a lot of cool 10's. |
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Doubleissima is not bad following but pumpy to protect on the lead for an early 10 IMO. |
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Totally agree Ward! It is very easy to deck on the ledge if you get pumped out and cant place the gear. And protect your second! I saw a group taking wild swings into the chimney/choss, while following! |




