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Suggestions for early Gunks 5.10s

Original Post
Josh S · · Brooklyn, NY / Gunks · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 5

I'm just starting to break into leading in the 5.10s, having led Beatle Brow Bulge, Never never land, and Retribution. When I was breaking into easier grades I found a ton of threads here and elsewhere suggesting good intro routes, but I'm having less luck on 10s, beyond this thread, which mentions some sadly-defunct gunks.com threads as great resources. I'm hoping to build out a list of 5-10 routes to try to get up before the season ends, so I'd be really curious to hear folks' suggestions for relatively G-rated routes that will introduce me to a variety of 5.10 movement. Thanks in advance!

Michael Kim · · Van Life, USA · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 546

I remember "amber waves of pain " being pretty straight forward and G rated

Christopher Payan · · EL PASO, TX · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 141

Wegetables, Teeny Face, Le Teton (direct version up arete), Try Again, Star Action, Feast of Fools, Simple Suff. I think amber waves of pain is border-line R and wouldn't recommend for braking into 10s.  there are also bunch of 9+ routes to get you ready. if you haven't done keep on struttin :) and all in the Trapps!

Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 295

I agree with the previous suggestions.  My first Gunks 10 was City Streets ( we're talking late 70s),  and Balrog nearby is a sew up. They are given 10b.

At the Nears, the first pitch of Cross Cross is great, 10a and a sew up.  The second pitch is also great but not a sew up!  Either rap or have your partner lead it like I did

mbk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

Doubleissima!

mbk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

For variety: Sonja (wear gloves)

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 799

Dat Mantle, Dis Mantle, City Streets, Beetle Brow Bulge, Coprophagia.

Julia B · · New York · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0

Hi! I'm looking for someone to teach me how to lead climb. Willing to pay. Currently top rope 5.10. Based in NYC. // Looking for a top rope buddy who can build anchors. Thanks!!!

Ross Ayer · · Southington, CT · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 62

Julia, I sent you a PM

Rob D · · Queens, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 30

The Spring (the way the app draws the line, not the classic way).

Josh S · · Brooklyn, NY / Gunks · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 5

Thanks, all! Led Criss Cross Direct today and followed Wegetables over the weekend; looking forward to getting on many of these over the next couple of weeks.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,732
Josh Swrote:

Thanks, all! Led Criss Cross Direct today and followed Wegetables over the weekend; looking forward to getting on many of these over the next couple of weeks.

Did you get my PM?

Josh S · · Brooklyn, NY / Gunks · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 5
Gunkiemikewrote:

Did you get my PM?

Oh, thanks so much for checking...it went to my filtered email in gmail and I never saw it. Just searched and found it though, responding now!

Molly Z · · Longmont, CO · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 35

Also it depends on your style. My first choice would be something like Feast of Fools. My partner recommends never never land to everyone as a first 10 and TBH it will be the last one on my list because I suck on slabs. 

James D · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 41

I did 'simple suff' pretty early on in my gunks 10's adventures fwiw

not your typical gunks climbing I'll admit but worth a look

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,093

doubleissima is the easy 10 i remember most.  super fun route.  P-38, low exposure, nosedive, the dangler are all short ones that would be good.  i remember the gear at the start of simple suff  being kind of funky, but maybe i didn't have my normal rack that day.  the gunks has a lot of cool 10's.

Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 295

Doubleissima is not bad following but pumpy to protect on the lead for an early 10 IMO.

Christopher Payan · · EL PASO, TX · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 141

Totally agree Ward! It is very easy to deck on the ledge if you get pumped out and cant place the gear. And protect your second! I saw a group taking wild swings into the chimney/choss, while following!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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