Owen Spaulding rap

Why do people use the slung tat anchor to rap the OS route, vs bolted the rap anchors that are right next to it? I was up there a few weeks ago and someone asked that question and i thought it was a good one to ask, considering how many people rap the line AND the rockfall potential.

Tom Chingas wrote:

A 60m is long enough (if thrown to skier's left) from the slung anchor, but will leave you hanging from the bolt anchor.

Every party I spoke to had a 70....it seemed like we were just doing what others were doing and we were using a 70.

so that is rappelers right?

I used a tat rap. The bolted rap was climbers left next to the tat.

Both should be used to expedite a quicker descent for everyone when it’s crowded.  If you rap skiers left a 60 will work at both 

R K wrote:

Looker’s right.

Depends which way you’re looking. 

Why  describe  a climbing  rappel  with  skiing  directions? Seems like it adds  confusion.   Climbers  or  rappelers  left  seems  more  appropriate.  

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

Why  describe  a climbing  rappel  with  skiing  directions? Seems like it adds  confusion.   Climbers  or  rappelers  left  seems  more  appropriate.  

What, you don’t face out when you rappel? 

The sling and the bolted chain have traditionally been well-maintained rappel points. Guides use both. The secondary  70 foot raps that rarely get used - and which are a true rats' nest of tat - are not maintained (obviously, check your own setup at any rap station).

The south end of the landing zone is higher than the north end. The sling is south of the bolted chain so it has the most direct line to the higher side of the LZ.

A dynamic 60 has been used at both stations but a 70' gives people that added bit of safety when faced with any uncertainty. And added weight to slow you down, and added rope management to deal with. And added expense, etc.

Personally, I prefer Cardinal directions for locations (North, South, etc) but then I notice how often people can't even figure out North from South. Given that, it isn't too surprising that lookers this, skiers that, left, right, can trip up many climbers. 

It is always good to ask for clarity. And no harm in doing so. To answer the question, people use the sling because it has the shorter drop. They trust it with a dynamic 60m rope. The longest drop by the bolted chain is 40m (at least it is stamped 40m - haven't gotten out the ruler).

Better question might be why isn't there a bolted station by the sling with the sling as an option (not a third rappel setup - too much loose rock for three stations and not usually needed). Although, two-hour delays have happened (not often) at the raps in no small part out of fear of using the bolted chain with a 60 (and not liking the 70 foot option or not knowing about it).

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

Why  describe  a climbing  rappel  with  skiing  directions? Seems like it adds  confusion.   Climbers  or  rappelers  left  seems  more  appropriate.  

Rappelers left adds confusion.  Is it their left while setting the rappel and looking down the mountain or their left once they are on rappel and facing up the mountain?  

Use climbers left/right while ascending/facing up the mountain and skiers left/right while descending/facing down the mountain.  Or cardinal directions are even better but it’s amazing how many people struggle to know which way is south, north, etc 

I just always use climbers /rappelers left and right while climbing and skiers left and right while sking. No confusion. 

Thank you Teton Climber!!

I also like North, south etc.  amazeingly most of my construction co workers can't figure that shit out.