The best route for each grade in Washington 5.6-5.11a

A friend and I were having a discussion about the best routes in Washington at each grade. I have climbed about half of of these but  this list is mainly based on reputation/ opinions of some of my partners etc. I would love to see everyone else's lists and suggestions. 

5.6: The West Ridge of Forbidden

5.7: Ragged Edge

5.8: The SouthWest Rib of SEWS

5.9: Outer Space

10a: Stanley-Burgner

10b: The Valkyrie

10c: DHLA

10d: Acid Baby

11a: Solid Gold

at 5.9 i would probably substitute CNR of stuart.

West Ridge of Prusik for 5.7

Idk i thought Acid Baby was kinda soft for 10d.

I think east face of Chablis is a better 5.6. It has a bit of snow climbing, It doesn't have the 200+ feet of scree gully  climbing and no being pelted in the face by people kicking scree, the way down is very straight forward, it has a very fun variation, you get to sit on top of a actual spire. The  glacier is not as pretty as Boston basins are though.

I agree with ragged edge, outer space and Stanley Burgner. All are great.

It's rated at 5.9 but I feel is more 5.8 and I feel is more fun then SW rib, is prime rib of goat. 

For harder climbs (starting around mid 5.10s?) It seems like one of the qualities that change it from a "fun 5.1Xx" to a classic is sustainedness. Does the same standard apply to easy climbs?

For example, West ridge of Prussik has some pretty great qualities -- that slab is all-time in terms of exposure -- but the route as a whole only has a couple 10 foot sections of 5.7 climbing, everything else is much easier.  SW Rib on SEWS has one pitch at 5.8 (about half of which is at the grade IIRC).  Does that make it "the best 5.8 in the state", or just a great climb that has a 5.8 section?

I suppose the counter is that the sustained 5.10 climbs are really "sustained" within a few grades. Ie, the best 10c in the state may have several 5.10a/b pitches, or even 5.9, and it still "counts" as engaging climbing at the 5.10c standard.  The same logic for a 5.6 climb means that as long as "most" of the climbing is >5.4(?) it would be a candidate. 

i would say SW rib has several sections that are fun and would be a challenge for the 5.8 climber.  the direct start, the first pitch (especially when it is cold) is in your face a bit, the second pitch is great and has a bit of wide, the nervous nelly (i think this is the crux of route despite it getting a 5.6 grade), bear hug pitch is fun, slab with a bolt is fun.  combine this with the descent and i would say overall the route is up near the top.

at the 5.9 grade, if you include a bit of aid i would say liberty cracks is up there. fun route.

at 10b maybe rebel yell?

Eric Roewrote:

For harder climbs (starting around mid 5.10s?) It seems like one of the qualities that change it from a "fun 5.1Xx" to a classic is sustainedness. Does the same standard apply to easy climbs?

For example, West ridge of Prussik has some pretty great qualities -- that slab is all-time in terms of exposure -- but the route as a whole only has a couple 10 foot sections of 5.7 climbing, everything else is much easier.  SW Rib on SEWS has one pitch at 5.8 (about half of which is at the grade IIRC).  Does that make it "the best 5.8 in the state", or just a great climb that has a 5.8 section?

I think the SW Rib of SEWS is relatively sustained at or near the 5.8 grade. 

P1 5.8, 

P2. 5.8,

 P3 5.6, 5.8+, 10b depending on which variation you do

P4 5.6+ slab

P5 5.7+offwidth 

P6 5.5 slab

P7 5.5 offwidth

Every pitch on this climbs is within 2-3 Grades of the overall grade. To me this makes it sustained enough not to detract from the quality. And even though there are some scrambly sections on the climb, it's the alpine so that is part of the experience. 

You guys are tripping. You dont need to look any further than exit 38...

5.6 Theres pink in my burger

5.7 (+) your sister

5.8 erectile disfunction

5.9 absolutely nothing

10a namby-pamby

10b bwana be your man

10c flight of the gnarwhale

10d big mama

11a steep steet

Undispuable classics! Not just in WA but the entire world....

BAM!

i am pretty sure he was lathering on the sarcasm with a putty knife  ;)

Best 11a (plus one or two moves of A0) is West Face of CBR.  

Trevor Taylor wrote:

Can't tell if sarcasm but steep street isn't even the best 11a in the exits. La Vida Locamotive, Free Radical, and Primus most people would agree are better. For 10D I think most would agree that web slinger 2 and  BLM6 are better than big mama.

No way. Ask anyone. Steep street is the one route that rules them all.

best 11a ever

slimwrote:

i am pretty sure he was lathering on the sarcasm with a putty knife  ;)

No way. I think all those routes you guys mentioned are trad routes. Not only are the not accessible to most of the people in the climbing gym, you have to walk really far to get them.

Plus who wants to trust their life on some little widget with springs, and stick there body parts in cracks? Sounds painful. No thanks.

But I might concede to prime rib of goat. Even though I think you have to walk too far. I think that’s all sport, and it’s like more than half the size of el cap.

Trevor Taylor wrote:

Can't tell if sarcasm but steep street isn't even the best 11a in the exits. La Vida Locamotive, Free Radical, and Primus most people would agree are better. For 10D I think most would agree that web slinger 2 and  BLM6 are better than big mama.

How do you manage to suck the fun out of every forum on this website...

Hangdog Hankwrote:

How do you manage to suck the fun out of every forum on this website...

Don't let me ruin your fun then next time we chat in person I will give you a warning I suppose.

The Hitchhiker for .11a. SO GOOD.

saign charlesteinwrote:

No way. I think all those routes you guys mentioned are trad routes. Not only are the not accessible to most of the people in the climbing gym, you have to walk really far to get them.

Plus who wants to trust their life on some little widget with springs, and stick there body parts in cracks? Sounds painful. No thanks.

But I might concede to prime rib of goat. Even though I think you have to walk too far. I think that’s all sport, and it’s like more than half the size of el cap.

more than half the size of el cap? lolz...

Matt Simonwrote:

The Hitchhiker for .11a. SO GOOD.

This. That’s a fun sport route you put gear in. I say that only partially joking, the gear is so easy and good anywhere it gets remotely hard. Let’s you have type 1 fun in the mountains at a technical grade

Nick Drakewrote:

This. That’s a fun sport route you put gear in. I say that only partially joking, the gear is so easy and good anywhere it gets remotely hard. Let’s you have type 1 fun in the mountains at a technical grade

That's good to know.  Something I've had my eye on but it's just out of reach.  Maybe something to push myself on!

slimwrote:

more than half the size of el cap? lolz...

Pretty sure.

Wait?!? What about flyboys!?! It’s not only the best 5.9 in the state but the world. I’ll even concede the 35’ of bliss on steep street to the undisputed best 5.9 anywhere. Just look at the front page of mtn project.

saign charlesteinwrote:

Pretty sure.

Wait?!? What about flyboys!?! It’s not only the best 5.9 in the state but the world. I’ll even concede the 35’ of bliss on steep street to the undisputed best 5.9 anywhere. Just look at the front page of mtn project.

I didn't want to state obvious I thought it would be unfair having two classic from the same wall on the list.