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hexes are goody style

Greg R · · Durango CO · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10

Learned to climb placing hexes, I prefer to supplement cams with tri- cams as they seem more versatile than hexes. Similar weight and cost benefits.

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain · · Las Vegas, Nevada and Apple… · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 146

A #8 to a #11 are always on my rack

Dave Olsen · · Channeled Scablands · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 10

Hexes are fun when climbing  4th, easy 5th and Steck/Roper 3rd class.

Hexes and Big Tetons are fun to draw wise ass comments from the nearby 5.12 climbers working some rap drilled project they can't finish.


J P · · SL, UT · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 15

I want everything dumbed down for me and easy, because that’s how schools are now, and I won’t look as cool as the cool kids if I don’t use the latest gear, exactly what they use, and wear exactly what they wear.

Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 110

#11 hex is a good lightweight way to replace a #3/#4 cam. Anything smaller, meh.

What I want to know, what the hell is, "goody style"

aiden the cam slinging slasher · · Yosemite NP (Tuolumne) · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 40
Forthright wrote:What I want to know, what the hell is, "goody style"

i’ve been wondering the same thing. seen this tread a few times this week and the more i think about it the less sense it makes.

Benj84 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 435
Taylor Hennum wrote: Placements are always bomber.  The simplicity is such great style

I'm gonna take a crack at resurrecting this thread, I find that this thread was goody style.

Robert Monjure · · Winston-Salem, NC · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0

My first trad lead on my own gear was three hexes and two nuts (both nuts fell out). I also did not have any alpine draws yet so go easy on my poor rope management from last year. Lol. 

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16

Hexes are an epicureanism..."Epicurus believed that the greatest good was to seek modest, sustainable pleasure in the form of a state of ataraxia (tranquility and freedom from fear) and aponia (the absence of bodily pain) through knowledge of the workings of the world and limiting desires"

Hexes, when placed in their most stable configuration, form a pre-intellectual cutting edge of reality i.e.  Quality(partially owing to their design and interaction with rock) that allows one to climb KNOWING they have placed the most bomber piece of gear that can be had. This transforms the climbing from one of struggle and despair to one of being able to flow up the rock in a state of harmony and inner peace.

Pirsig of course explained it best:

Quality," or "value," cannot be defined because it empirically precedes any intellectual construction of it, namely due to the fact that quality exists always as a perceptual experience before it is ever thought of descriptively or academically. Quality is the "knife-edge" of experience, found only in the present, known or at least potentially accessible to all of "us" (cf. Plato's Phaedrus, 258d). Equating it with the Tao, Quality is the fundamental force in the universe stimulating everything from atoms to animals to evolve and incorporate ever greater levels of Quality. According to the Metaphysics of Quality, everything (including ideas, and matter) is a product and a result of Quality.

From Anthony Watt's article on Pirsig 2017:
So instead of dividing everything into subjects and objects, Pirsig divides reality into Dynamic Quality (this is capitalised deliberately) and static quality. ‘Dynamic Quality’ is the term he gives to the continually changing flux of immediately-experienced reality, while ‘static quality’ refers to any concept abstracted from this flux. The term ‘Dynamic’ indicates something not fixed or determinate, which means that Dynamic Quality cannot be defined, and therefore a true understanding of it can only be given directly in experience. As Herbert Günther says in his book Philosophy & Psychology in the Abidharma (1957), “The Ultimate, in Buddhism, is something knowable, though not known by theory or discursive method, but by direct experience” (p.235). In other words, the Buddha can’t tell you what Dynamic Quality is, but he can point a way so that you can experience it for yourself, and then you might understand.

EDIT: Bold is mine

Benj84 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 435
Buck Rio wrote: Hexes are an epicureanism..."Epicurus believed that the greatest good was to seek modest, sustainable pleasure in the form of a state of ataraxia (tranquility and freedom from fear) and aponia (the absence of bodily pain) through knowledge of the workings of the world and limiting desires"

Hexes, when placed in their most stable configuration, form a pre-intellectual cutting edge of reality i.e.  Quality(partially owing to their design and interaction with rock) that allows one to climb KNOWING they have placed the most bomber piece of gear that can be had. This transforms the climbing from one of struggle and despair to one of being able to flow up the rock in a state of harmony and inner peace.

Pirsig of course explained it best:

Quality," or "value," cannot be defined because it empirically precedes any intellectual construction of it, namely due to the fact that quality exists always as a perceptual experience before it is ever thought of descriptively or academically. Quality is the "knife-edge" of experience, found only in the present, known or at least potentially accessible to all of "us" (cf. Plato's Phaedrus, 258d). Equating it with the Tao, Quality is the fundamental force in the universe stimulating everything from atoms to animals to evolve and incorporate ever greater levels of Quality. According to the Metaphysics of Quality, everything (including ideas, and matter) is a product and a result of Quality.

From Anthony Watt's article on Pirsig 2017:
So instead of dividing everything into subjects and objects, Pirsig divides reality into Dynamic Quality (this is capitalised deliberately) and static quality. ‘Dynamic Quality’ is the term he gives to the continually changing flux of immediately-experienced reality, while ‘static quality’ refers to any concept abstracted from this flux. The term ‘Dynamic’ indicates something not fixed or determinate, which means that Dynamic Quality cannot be defined, and therefore a true understanding of it can only be given directly in experience. As Herbert Günther says in his book Philosophy & Psychology in the Abidharma (1957), “The Ultimate, in Buddhism, is something knowable, though not known by theory or discursive method, but by direct experience” (p.235). In other words, the Buddha can’t tell you what Dynamic Quality is, but he can point a way so that you can experience it for yourself, and then you might understand.

EDIT: Bold is mine

That was beautiful my friend, half way through the second paragraph I was getting a strong ZATAOMM vibe, I'm glad that was where that was going, your post was goody style.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16
Benj84 wrote:

That was beautiful my friend, half way through the second paragraph I was getting a strong ZATAOMM vibe, I'm glad that was where that was going, your post was goody style.

I'm surprised someone as young as you got the reference...nice to know that PHAEDRUS LIVES. 

Matthias Holladay · · On the Road...Looking for a… · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 7,545

Love it! Thanks for posting.

Pepe LePoseur · · Remote Ontario · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 0

I believe all the goody Hexes were burned at the stake in Salem.  

(Note: this is funny only to those who know a bit of history, and some German.  And even then it’s a stretch.   Kudos to Buck’s post above.  Had to read it a couple times and look up some references)

Timo G · · Keene, NH · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 681

Time to resurrect this thread again, and to feel alive once again in goody style. When was the last time you had euphoric feeling of placing a hex while your forearms are slowly losing function and you are risking hitting your belayer on the slow and steady ground fall?   

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

Buck Rio,

”Doc, you said a mouthful.” —Seldom Seen Smith

Now I need to go do some maintenance on my motorcycle...

Benj84 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 435
Daniel Joderwrote:

Buck Rio,

”Doc, you said a mouthful.” —Seldom Seen Smith

Now I need to go do some maintenance on my motorcycle...

I must admit I am suprised and pleased to see a monkey wrench gang reference drawn into this conversation

John Reeve · · Durango, CO · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 15

These bizarrely literate references are "goody style", I believe.

Dave Olsen · · Channeled Scablands · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 10
David Devillewrote:

Even just bringing 3 hand sized hexes on a long alpine route creates a lot of noise. Though, they are kind of indispensable when you know you're gonna be climbing long pitches of granite-splitter hands and you don't like soloing. 

Hexes are way quieter than pins, both on the rack and during placement. A huge leap forward. Hexes seem cheery, like a pleasant wind chime, not like the dull thudding of cams.

Buck's statement about placing a giant hex then slumping onto it, while throwing up a bit in the mouth brings back memories of my first steep off width leads. Braille Book in Yosemite also comes to mind, gratefully managed to get an #11 placement in the chimney.

Timo G · · Keene, NH · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 681

also, speaking of hexes, anybody have any lying around that they are willing to sell?

Al Pine · · Shawangadang, NY · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

Endwise #10 placement a few weeks ago where nothing else would work. Very goody...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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