THE Best Pitch of the Wasatch Range???

I finally made it up to the Lone Peak Cirque last month and after reading a number of route descriptions that included the designation of "best pitch in the Wasatch Range", I wanted to poll the masses and see, really: 

What is the single best pitch in the Wasatch Range? 

I am also open to awards for "best sport pitch" and "best trad pitch" and, if we must, "best boulder."

My money is on the Coffin

Crux pitch of Triple Overhangs

Certain Death: if you want to explore the dark realms of 5.8 in LCC. 

The Coffin may be the best for the style of Little Cottonwood, either that or a slabby chickenhead pitch (take your pick).

But the best climbing pitch in the Wasatch may have to go to Fallen Arches. It's steep crack climbing with some sporty bouldering moves (everyone wins). The only downside is that classic LCC lean. 

Three that I would have expected have already shown up here with The Coffin, Triple Overhands and Fallen Arches.  The Coffin Roof has also always caught my eye as one of the proudest looking lines in the Wasatch but I doubt I'll ever do it myself.

If I had to pick just one, I would probably say the "Zion Curtain" pitch on Arm and Hammer. It's been years and I still think about that pendulum, the spooky climbing on that massive hollow flake, the view and the precarious exit.

Though I don't think anything in the Wasatch actually matches the Zion Curtain pitch, I would also throw out the following as possible "also receiving votes" type of climbs: 

- P1 of the Dorsal Fin (LCC).  This will always be in my memory.  The location on the church's vault is pretty cool.  The runout is so intense.  When you grab the same "thank god" chicken heads, you know your hands are exactly where the first ascensionist's hands were back when he muttered, "thank god" after leading that hair ball slab in his RRs.

- The last pitch of Squawstruck (Rock Canyon).  I think I only actually became a man when I pulled over that last imposing roof after nearly 15 hours of climbing that was all too hard for me.

- The last pitch of the Lowe Route (Lone Peak Cirque).  It's a pretty great location to find a gym-jug studded pitch. 

- The Green Monster Crack (Rock Canyon).  Having learned to climb in Rock Canyon, I'm probably giving this one too much credit, but it's a beautiful width crack in a cool location.          

- Godro's Wall (BCC).  Kind of the same reasons as Green Monster Crack. 

+1 for Zion Curtain

I think Mexican Crack is pretty dope from start to finish.

Not the best, but I really liked Sasquatch in the pentapitch area

W Kwrote:

Not the best, but I really liked Sasquatch in the pentapitch area

I remember Sasquatch and having a good time on it, but I can't really remember the location, exposure, moves (other than a roof) or anything other than a general feeling of "that was a pretty good pitch". 

I'll stick to LCC only.

5.6 // Pitch 1 of Pentapitch. Perfect rock, excellent pro and easy enough, but not that easy climbing.

5.7 // Beckey's Wall. Perfect rock the whole way and finishes on huge flake jugs at the end of a 140' pitch.

5.8 // Bushwhack. Short, but I mean there's no comparison.

5.9 // Gordon's Hangover. Long pitch with 2 cruxes and a whole bunch of great climbing.

5.10- // Equipment Overhang Right. Great corner climbing to a definitive crux and an exciting finish.

5.10+ // Bongeater. Perfect rock, excellent pro and no gimme.

5.11- // Gargoyle. The best dihedral crack climb in the canyon no question.

5.11+ // Mother of Pearl. Excellent climbing interspersed with rests so you can get the gusto up.

5.12- // Unreliable. Fantastic sport climbing (better than all chalk for sure) with the crescendo finish.

5.12+ // Beastie Boys. Incredible position and exciting climbing with just enough protection in the right spots. Maybe I'll send one day...

I'm going to cast my vote for p1 of the Dorsal Fin. The history around the climb is pretty amazing and I think it captures the bold ground-up slab style of LCC, plus being up on the fin is an awesome experience. 

Also p2 of Enter the Dragon is pretty fantastic. It's got everything! Fun crack climbing, exciting lie-backing, a delicate face crux and some wild exposure to the finish. One of my all time favorites for sure. 

Some solid contenders. Gordon’s Hangover definitely jumps out to me as one of the best gear pitches. In terms of (mostly) bolted climbs, Medusa at Hellgate is incredible. Steep, improbable climbing on wild jugs and flakes. 

Creed Archibaldwrote:

Some solid contenders. Gordon’s Hangover definitely jumps out to me as one of the best gear pitches. In terms of (mostly) bolted climbs, Medusa at Hellgate is incredible. Steep, improbable climbing on wild jugs and flakes. 

Medusa is one of all time favorite sport pitches. That last 25' is incredible!

-Pitch #2 on Shadow of the Blade.  

-Narcolepsy in BCC

-Pitch #3 on the Lowe Route in Lone Peak. 

I'll chime in to this one. Criteria as follows;

1. fun factor I.e. do you dream about pitches like this

2. Location: There are plenty of really good IC style splitters all over hogum/ bells but a 4hr slog to get to really detracts from their "bestness" rating IMO

3. Workout ability: without a good pump is it really that good?!? Worth doing over and over?

4. Splitterness which I'll say is interchangeable with overall aesthetics 

2 per each rating

The easys; 1st pitch of Pentapitch; just glorious fun to a good view from the chains. Bushwhack; if you have to ask don't bother

The mediums; Goodros and bongeater both without a doubt the best 2 5.10s in SLC splitter, challenging, lap-able, exciting

The hards; Stump the stars (I'll elaborate later). Fallen Arches, agreeing with the above sentiments about FA...at least for the 1st 10 feet which I hang-dogged.

Overall: I gotta go with a toss up with Stump the Stars and Bongeater. Both require descent body movement, are splitter as can be, pumpy as hell, variable sizes and offer great views of the Wastach in a relatively easy to get to location.

As an edit for those you that haven't heard of Stump the Stars go find it RIGHT NOW.

Travis Haussenerwrote:

I'll chime in to this one. Criteria as follows;

1. fun factor I.e. do you dream about pitches like this

2. Location: There are plenty of really good IC style splitters all over hogum/ bells but a 4hr slog to get to really detracts from their "bestness" rating IMO

3. Workout ability: without a good pump is it really that good?!? Worth doing over and over?

4. Splitterness which I'll say is interchangeable with overall aesthetics 

2 per each rating

The easys; 1st pitch of Pentapitch; just glorious fun to a good view from the chains. Bushwhack; if you have to ask don't bother

The mediums; Goodros and bongeater both without a doubt the best 2 5.10s in SLC splitter, challenging, lap-able, exciting

The hards; Stump the stars (I'll elaborate later). Fallen Arches, agreeing with the above sentiments about FA...at least for the 1st 10 feet which I hang-dogged.

Overall: I gotta go with a toss up with Stump the Stars and Bongeater. Both require descent body movement, are splitter as can be, pumpy as hell, variable sizes and offer great views of the Wastach in a relatively easy to get to location.

As an edit for those you that haven't heard of Stump the Stars go find it RIGHT NOW.

Stump the Stars is probably my favorite pitch in LCC but I didn’t consider it for THE classics list cause it’s so lonely. 

For all the choss chasers out there... A Cloud in the Sky!

Seth Reelitzwrote:

For all the choss chasers out there... A Cloud in the Sky!

This thread is making me realize I need to finally get out to Hellgate. 

Can't believe that I'm the first to say this but, The Flakes.

The first 25-30 feet has got to be the most splitter and vertical hand crack in the Wasatch. Then you get the awesome lieback flake and finally the hand traverse finish. 

Position is also awesome and usually secluded. 

I'm also going to throw out another unpopular opinion and say the Zion Curtain is overhyped. 

Super cool and fun, but overrated. 

Jolly green giant...