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Cam between C4 2 and 3

Original Post
Evan Gates · · Boulder, CO · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 9

I've found a few times that a C4 #2 is too small and a #3 is too big. Do you have any favorite cam that fits the gap between the two?

Zach Holt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 275

I have an older purple Metolius cam (booty) that seems to be right in between the #2 and #3 c4 sizes. I’m just not sure if it’s a power cam, master cam, or super cam. 

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

Purple friend

Dan Allard · · West Chester, PA · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,070

It seems camalots are maybe the most popular but I use both metolius powercams and camalots and find they complement each other well. Powercams are built and place very solidly, are light and have more size offerings below what would be the equivalent of a C4 #3. Different range, but a great cam nonetheless.

also of use for this kind of thing if you havent seen it..
https://cam-parison.com/

Al Pino · · Boulder · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 595

Just hand jam 

Linnaeus · · ID · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5

The Wild Country #2 twin axle Friend is a bit bigger, as that is a known dead spot in the BD C4 range. Otherwise, the old #3 single axle friend fits well there.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,732
Al Pino wrote: Just hand jam 

Sure. And leave it as pro for the next 15 feet of cruxy face climbing, eh?

Kief Manning · · Elgin, AZ · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0
Gunkiemike wrote:

Sure. And leave it as pro for the next 15 feet of cruxy face climbing, eh?

Depends on your ape index I guess

Etha Williams · · Twentynine Palms, CA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 349
Al Pino wrote: Just hand jam 

If you're me this is the hands-fist transition size...fun.

Bet someone would’ve liked a piece in this size when they placed this instead:
Malcolm Daly · · Hailey, ID · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 380
Linnaeus wrote: The Wild Country #2 twin axle Friend is a bit bigger, as that is a known dead spot in the BD C4 range. Otherwise, the old #3 single axle friend fits well there.

What Linnaeus said. When BD killed the 3.5 and 4.5 they reduced the overlap between the Red, Yellow and Blue and created the dreaded “C4 Dead Space”. The new WC Friends solve the problem. 

Evan Gates · · Boulder, CO · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 9

Thanks for your help everyone, and for pointing out that cam comparison website, very helpful. I've added the friend #2 to my wishlist. 

Eugenel Espiritu · · Pennsylvania · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,640
Cole Darby · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 166

Orange totem

Jeff Luton · · It's complicated · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 5

Yellow new friend is slightly larger than yellow c4

space monkey · · Denver · Joined May 2017 · Points: 40
Etha Williamswrote:

If you're me this is the hands-fist transition size...fun.

Bet someone would’ve liked a piece in this size when they placed this instead:

Let me guess the climb...Atman

Ccfuchs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

Wild country helium #3 (purple) is perfect for overlap and they tend to be cheap

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

Purple Friend (obsolete), or purple DMM Demon (obsolete), or purple DMM 4CU (obsolete), or purple Helium Friend (obsolete), or light purple Metolius (finally still in production).

Levi X · · Washington · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 63

I am a big fan of the metolious power cams to fill in the gaps for the c4s. I usually find that if a placement doesnt look amazing with a c4 one of the power cams fits perfectly. I would try them out before buying a set though - some people really dont like the feel of them. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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