Cam between C4 2 and 3
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I've found a few times that a C4 #2 is too small and a #3 is too big. Do you have any favorite cam that fits the gap between the two? |
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I have an older purple Metolius cam (booty) that seems to be right in between the #2 and #3 c4 sizes. I’m just not sure if it’s a power cam, master cam, or super cam. |
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Purple friend |
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It seems camalots are maybe the most popular but I use both metolius powercams and camalots and find they complement each other well. Powercams are built and place very solidly, are light and have more size offerings below what would be the equivalent of a C4 #3. Different range, but a great cam nonetheless. |
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Just hand jam |
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The Wild Country #2 twin axle Friend is a bit bigger, as that is a known dead spot in the BD C4 range. Otherwise, the old #3 single axle friend fits well there. |
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Al Pino wrote: Just hand jam Sure. And leave it as pro for the next 15 feet of cruxy face climbing, eh? |
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Gunkiemike wrote: Depends on your ape index I guess |
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Al Pino wrote: Just hand jam If you're me this is the hands-fist transition size...fun. Bet someone would’ve liked a piece in this size when they placed this instead: |
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Linnaeus wrote: The Wild Country #2 twin axle Friend is a bit bigger, as that is a known dead spot in the BD C4 range. Otherwise, the old #3 single axle friend fits well there. What Linnaeus said. When BD killed the 3.5 and 4.5 they reduced the overlap between the Red, Yellow and Blue and created the dreaded “C4 Dead Space”. The new WC Friends solve the problem. |
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Thanks for your help everyone, and for pointing out that cam comparison website, very helpful. I've added the friend #2 to my wishlist. |
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Orange totem |
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Yellow new friend is slightly larger than yellow c4 |
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Etha Williamswrote: Let me guess the climb...Atman |
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Wild country helium #3 (purple) is perfect for overlap and they tend to be cheap |
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Purple Friend (obsolete), or purple DMM Demon (obsolete), or purple DMM 4CU (obsolete), or purple Helium Friend (obsolete), or light purple Metolius (finally still in production). |
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I am a big fan of the metolious power cams to fill in the gaps for the c4s. I usually find that if a placement doesnt look amazing with a c4 one of the power cams fits perfectly. I would try them out before buying a set though - some people really dont like the feel of them. |





