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translating bouldering to sport
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so i climb fairly respectably for bouldering, almost every V4 and occasional V5, but this doesn't seem to translate at all to sport. I have recently picked up outside sport and lead climbing and i am finding myself frustrated at the slow progression. None of the holds are particularly hard for me but i'm stuck on the crux moves for many 5.10A and B problems. Initially i assumed it was terrible footwork, which is a typical pitfall of most people that make a similar transition as me. I have been improving that and though my foot work is a bit timid it should be good enough to send 5.10A regularly. I am also working on energy conservation as well. Is it typical for people in my position to basically have to relearn how to climb? How can i most efficiently improve my sport climbing to reflect my bouldering grade which should be roughly around 5.11D - 5.12A. |
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Train endurance and focus on not over gripping. Stand on your feet and learn to rest at every opportunity where you can get something back. Try to get a mid-grade pump while warming up and then rest more than you think you need to before trying to push your grade. Make a major effort to try to work out not only the beta (including clips) from the ground, but also your game plan. Work on your breathing and headspace. Don’t try to be stronger than the climb, try to understand it. It’s just as common for boulderers to feel like they’re underperforming on rope climbs as it is for sport climbers to feel the same on boulders because they are completely different sports that require not only different types of fitness, but also a different skill set. For some folks, power comes to them more easily than endurance and for others it’s the opposite. Have fun working it out and drop your expectations. |
Garrett Bwrote: so i climb fairly respectably for bouldering, almost every V4 and occasional V5, but this doesn't seem to translate at all to sport. I have recently picked up outside sport and lead climbing and i am finding myself frustrated at the slow progression. None of the holds are particularly hard for me but i'm stuck on the crux moves for many 5.10A and B problems. Initially i assumed it was terrible footwork, which is a typical pitfall of most people that make a similar transition as me. I have been improving that and though my foot work is a bit timid it should be good enough to send 5.10A regularly. I am also working on energy conservation as well. Is it typical for people in my position to basically have to relearn how to climb? How can i most efficiently improve my sport climbing to reflect my bouldering grade which should be roughly around 5.11D - 5.12A. Sounds about normal IF your V4 boulders are in a gym. |
Gunkiemikewrote: This aligns with my experience as well. For me, I think it has to do with the mental game. Nerves (specifically when lead climbing), but also knowing/being able to find where the holds are. In the gym: |
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Nothing about your situation seems abnormal to me. Keep at it and you’ll be climbing 10+ shortly |
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Don't be discouraged by grades. Think back at how many times you have to work a problem before you got the sequence dialed in. Now, think about how many times you tried the sport climb. Though you are playing with the same material (rock) it is a whole different ballgame moving from working a problem to sending a route sometimes 10 times longer or more. People have given good advice - rest when you can, picture the route before leaving the ground, learn where a good clipping stance is, etc.. Just work yourself up the grades and be patient. |
Garrett Bwrote: so i climb fairly respectably for bouldering, almost every V4 and occasional V5, but this doesn't seem to translate at all to sport. I have recently picked up outside sport and lead climbing and i am finding myself frustrated at the slow progression. None of the holds are particularly hard for me but i'm stuck on the crux moves for many 5.10A and B problems. Initially i assumed it was terrible footwork, which is a typical pitfall of most people that make a similar transition as me. I have been improving that and though my foot work is a bit timid it should be good enough to send 5.10A regularly. I am also working on energy conservation as well. Is it typical for people in my position to basically have to relearn how to climb? How can i most efficiently improve my sport climbing to reflect my bouldering grade which should be roughly around 5.11D - 5.12A. sounds about right |
Jesse Martinwrote: Nerves also play a role in outdoor bouldering. I’ve only gone a few times but I remember having trouble trusting pads to fall on and there are “no fall” situations. TS, I would suggest leading more in the gym if you can. Endurance gains tend to come and go quicker so if to focus on it you should start to see gains. If you have this big of a gap in both indoor or both outdoor then this could point to a training deficit but most likely you just need to work on your mental game and get comfortable falling so you won’t be death-gripping the whole way up. |
