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East Face of Pigeon Peak

Original Post
tyler88 · · Durango, CO · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 45

Anybody have any beta on the east face of pigeon peak? I have been looking at it a lot and might attempt it over thanksgiving. All i know it that it is "5.8", anything else I should know??

Dan Mottinger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,785

I think someone asked recently about the climbing in the Needles, it may not have been here.

I've not climbed on Pigeon's east face (did a 5th class route up the north face) but the one main thing to know about the peaks in this area is that the rock is VERY loose. It's too bad as there are some great looking walls here but the crumbling granite crumbles away into ball bearings and only large features were solid.

Matthias Holladay · · On the Road...Looking for a… · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 7,550

Yes, everything Dan said. Hike to the base and sadly you'll see sharp, loose ball-bearings of granite with cracks which won't take pro... but there are lots of pretty white rocks!
From upper Ruby meadow, you might want to climb to the Turret-Pigeon saddle, drop down, down and around to below the West face and hike this up to the top. This "taste" and familiarizing of the rock, as well as ascent/descent, will likely give you a good feel of what to expect.
I'd recommend, however, you go up to the head of Noname drainage and try the granite there instead. Much better.

Oak Nelson · · Superior, CO · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 469
tyler88wrote: Anybody have any beta on the east face of pigeon peak? I have been looking at it a lot and might attempt it over thanksgiving. All i know it that it is "5.8", anything else I should know??

tyler88 did you end up going up the East Face? Any advice?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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