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Bastille Crack is 8-

Original Post
Daniel Kay · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 152

From the forthcoming third edition of the Steve Levin guidebook. There is an advance copy at Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder if you want to check it out. Neptune sales staff says 3rd edition should be out in ~2 weeks

Discuss.
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Climbing grades are subjective. End of discussion!

Short Fall Sean · · Bishop, CA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 7

All I know is it would be 6- in Cali, bruh.

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

It’s definitely more polished than it was BITD. That first pitch has had more than its share of folks slipping off—and the pro there can be tricky if you don’t regularly climb trad. 

proto G · · Falmouth (MA) · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 219

Is the difference between 7+ and 8- any meaningful, other than psychologically?
To put it in broader perspectives, using the french grading system, 7 is 5a, 8 is 5b, + and - are usually not used in this grade range. So 7+ and 8- are both in the 5a/5b range and indistinguishable on the french scale ...

Todd R · · Boulderado, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 61

What climb is this?? 

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Todd Rwrote: What climb is this?? 

The one in the title?

Daniel Kay · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 152
Nathan Sullivan · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

Interesting, it's been on my list forever and I've "rehearsed" P1 a few times.  Looks like the 5.8- is P1, and the PG must be the moves getting into the crack itself.  The only other Eldo 5.7 I've been on is West Overhang, and yeah, I can see a PG and a teeny upgrade for that flake-to-crack move.

Maybe I'll feel different whenever I get around to the whole thing.

Todd R · · Boulderado, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 61
FrankPSwrote:

The one in the title?

Oh cool. Maybe I'll go top rope it a bunch this weekend. 

Sprinkle McSparklecams · · Bag End, the shire · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 20

7+ is a scarier rating than 8- imo

Mike Robinson · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 8,116
Short Fall Seanwrote: All I know is it would be 6- in Cali, bruh.

Doubt it

Colton Lawson · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 22

P1 is like a slip and slide. I’d give it 5.7b.

William Thiry · · Las Vegas · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 729

P3 has a few 5.8 moves, and the traverse on P1 is a solid 7+ with polished feet. Since the rest of the climb is fun 5.6 the overall rating has traditionally been averaged out to 5.7. 

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain · · Las Vegas, Nevada and Apple… · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 146
William Thirywrote: P3 has a few 5.8 moves, and the traverse on P1 is a solid 7+ with polished feet. Since the rest of the climb is fun 5.6 the overall rating has traditionally been averaged out to 5.7. 

It should be easier now than when I did it with hexes and stoppers because of cams now.  I thought it was 7 when I did it then.  :-)

mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 41

FWIW, my copy of Richard Rossiter's "Boulder Climbs South", which dates to 1989, calls the first pitch of Bastille Crack 5.8. Rossiter's guide to Eldorado Canyon from 2000 calls it 5.7. for my part, the 1st pitch was a lot more fun before it got so polished.

W K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 167

It's 5.7b

Caleb S · · California · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 115

Who cares?

Charlie Izzz · · Boulder · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 45

Peasant shit 

mike h · · Front Range, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 70

At least now it's over-rated on multiple scales.

dylan grabowski · · Denver · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 95
mark felberwrote: FWIW, my copy of Richard Rossiter's "Boulder Climbs South", which dates to 1989, calls the first pitch of Bastille Crack 5.8. Rossiter's guide to Eldorado Canyon from 2000 calls it 5.7. for my part, the 1st pitch was a lot more fun before it got so polished.

I would loved to have climbed Bastille Crack when there was still friction on the rock! But, this is what we've got and best to enjoy it at that.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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