Bastille Crack is 8-
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From the forthcoming third edition of the Steve Levin guidebook. There is an advance copy at Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder if you want to check it out. Neptune sales staff says 3rd edition should be out in ~2 weeks Discuss. |
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Climbing grades are subjective. End of discussion! |
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All I know is it would be 6- in Cali, bruh. |
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It’s definitely more polished than it was BITD. That first pitch has had more than its share of folks slipping off—and the pro there can be tricky if you don’t regularly climb trad. |
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Is the difference between 7+ and 8- any meaningful, other than psychologically? |
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What climb is this?? |
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Todd Rwrote: What climb is this?? The one in the title? |
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Todd Rwrote: What climb is this?? |
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Interesting, it's been on my list forever and I've "rehearsed" P1 a few times. Looks like the 5.8- is P1, and the PG must be the moves getting into the crack itself. The only other Eldo 5.7 I've been on is West Overhang, and yeah, I can see a PG and a teeny upgrade for that flake-to-crack move. |
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FrankPSwrote: Oh cool. Maybe I'll go top rope it a bunch this weekend. |
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7+ is a scarier rating than 8- imo |
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Short Fall Seanwrote: All I know is it would be 6- in Cali, bruh. Doubt it |
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P1 is like a slip and slide. I’d give it 5.7b. |
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P3 has a few 5.8 moves, and the traverse on P1 is a solid 7+ with polished feet. Since the rest of the climb is fun 5.6 the overall rating has traditionally been averaged out to 5.7. |
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William Thirywrote: P3 has a few 5.8 moves, and the traverse on P1 is a solid 7+ with polished feet. Since the rest of the climb is fun 5.6 the overall rating has traditionally been averaged out to 5.7. It should be easier now than when I did it with hexes and stoppers because of cams now. I thought it was 7 when I did it then. :-) |
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FWIW, my copy of Richard Rossiter's "Boulder Climbs South", which dates to 1989, calls the first pitch of Bastille Crack 5.8. Rossiter's guide to Eldorado Canyon from 2000 calls it 5.7. for my part, the 1st pitch was a lot more fun before it got so polished. |
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It's 5.7b |
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Who cares? |
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Peasant shit |
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At least now it's over-rated on multiple scales. |
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mark felberwrote: FWIW, my copy of Richard Rossiter's "Boulder Climbs South", which dates to 1989, calls the first pitch of Bastille Crack 5.8. Rossiter's guide to Eldorado Canyon from 2000 calls it 5.7. for my part, the 1st pitch was a lot more fun before it got so polished. I would loved to have climbed Bastille Crack when there was still friction on the rock! But, this is what we've got and best to enjoy it at that. |





