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30cm slings ok for draw?

Original Post
J van · · Nashville, TN · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 6

I made a mistake and bought a few 30cm dyneema slings instead of 60cm. Does anyone use a 30cm sling instead of 60s or long quickdraws? I have a few 60s and 120s so I'm not worried if i need to really extend pieces. I dunno if it makes any safety difference using a 30cm sling for a draw instead of a long quickdraw; I don't see why it would be unsafe. In your experience what are some drawbacks using a 30cm set up? 

Ryan Dresser · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 81

By using some tape or rubber bands near the carabiners, you can add some rigidity.  

John Reeve · · Durango, CO · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 15

I carry a pair and like them okay.

I like them because I don't have to extend them.  Last time I handed them to my partner, though, he clipped the lower biner to the upper cause he thought they carried too low.  I don't do that myself... it kind of negates the main advantage of them.

As other folks state, they aren't rigid but I don't think they are any less safe than normal shoulder length draws.

Pat Light · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0
Ryan Dresserwrote: By using some tape or rubber bands near the carabiners, you can add some rigidity.  

No, don't use keeper bands on open slings: ukclimbing.com/videos/play.…;

Easy way to die. Spread the word.

Serge S · · Seattle, WA · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 683

I rack 30cm slings with 1 carabiner each and I love them - saves weight and works great with cams.

Rexford Nesakwatch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
Pat Lightwrote:Easy way to die. Spread the word.

Wow! I never knew how active and intent the inside of my rucksack was at killing me. My rucksack has been screaming yer gonna die for probably years now and I was able to not listen until I saw this video. Now, thankfully I will be inspecting all my gear against the Gremlins in my rucksack trying to kill me...

Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 265

They’re totally safe, just a lot less versatile.

coldfinger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 55

They would be pretty ideal as quickdraws for setting up the typical two bolt anchors that are present on top of almost all sport and many trad single pitch crags.  I’d shorten those by either setting then up as one would an alpine draw (10cm) or throw a loop so it is doubled (15cm). Then they’ll be at a good length for carrying on your harness. One of the reasons a 60cm sling is so popular is they offer the option of being carried as a shoulder sling or as an alpine draw. 

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

I made the same mistake but I've learned that they can be effective. I carry them are an alpine draw.
For sport they are better than 60's. Not many sport climbs require that much extension.
They are great for top anchor draws.
Trad is where they benefit me the most. My trad draws are sewn but floppy 20cm dyneema. So if I triple the 30's, I have 10's, 20's, 30's, 60's & a single 120.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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