Belay device for half rope
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Hello Everyone! |
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Alpine up |
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I’d go GigaJul if you want the most versatility...great device! |
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Well, depending how you thread it the Jul devices are going to be really grabby and in some cases hard to rappel with. I really don't care for mine. That brake assist is not worth the hassle of the other downsides. Petzl makes a tube belay device for thinner ropes or go with a BD ATC XP. |
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I use a Mammut Smart Alpine 7.5-9.5 on 8.1mm half ropes, it has plenty of friction. |
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I have used nothing but the Alpine Up for the last 8 years, since I only climb on doubles. However, I would not count on using it with thicker ropes. |
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acrophobewrote: Oh chill out. I bet his rope is rated for both. Most are these days unless its like a 6.9 twin. At 8.5 it may even be triple rated. Your belay device is going to be more diameter dependent than half vs twin technique. |
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Jared Chrysostomwrote: I use a Mammut Smart Alpine 7.5-9.5 on 8.1mm half ropes, it has plenty of friction. I tried a single rope rappel on my new 8.5mm static rope with my Mammut Smart Alpine 7.5-9.5 and the assisted braking was non-existent. Definitely test out your new belay device and rope combination while on a backup belay before committing to it. |
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JJ Burnswrote: Interesting, I have belayed with an 8.8 in the larger Smart Alpine with no problems. Every rope / device combo is different. |
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GIGAJUL |
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Re: rappelling w Jul devoces—flip it around and rap non-assisted mode (mega and micro), or just use the Giga in non-assist mode....smoooooooth! |




