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Belay device for half rope

Original Post
Peter Piper · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 0

Hello Everyone!
I would like to buy a suitable belay device using with twin-rope. With assisted breaking. I have. 8,5 mm newly bought rope (still slippery). I would like to use all functions (belay, repell, lower), and if it's not too grabby, occasionally with thick ropes laso. Some of the Edelrid Jul devices would be fine, but which one?

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

Alpine up

coppolillo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 70

I’d go GigaJul if you want the most versatility...great device! 

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,516

Well, depending how you thread it the Jul devices are going to be really grabby and in some cases hard to rappel with. I really don't care for mine. That brake assist is not worth the hassle of the other downsides. Petzl makes a tube belay device for thinner ropes or go with a BD ATC XP.

Jared Chrysostom · · Clemson, SC · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 5

I use a Mammut Smart Alpine 7.5-9.5 on 8.1mm half ropes, it has plenty of friction. 

acrophobe · · Orange, CT · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 0

I have used nothing but the Alpine Up for the last 8 years, since I only climb on doubles.  However, I would not count on using it with thicker ropes.

Also, your title says half ropes, and your post says twins.  I suggest that you make sure you understand the differences between the two.

Taylor Krosbakken · · Duluth, MN · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 1,086
acrophobewrote: 
Also, your title says half ropes, and your post says twins.  I suggest that you make sure you understand the differences between the two.

Oh chill out. I bet his rope is rated for both. Most are these days unless its like a 6.9 twin. At 8.5 it may even be triple rated. Your belay device is going to be more diameter dependent than half vs twin technique. 

JJ Burns · · Colima · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 0
Jared Chrysostomwrote: I use a Mammut Smart Alpine 7.5-9.5 on 8.1mm half ropes, it has plenty of friction. 

I tried a single rope rappel on my new 8.5mm static rope with my Mammut Smart Alpine 7.5-9.5 and the assisted braking was non-existent.  Definitely test out your new belay device and rope combination while on a backup belay before committing to it.

Jared Chrysostom · · Clemson, SC · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 5
JJ Burnswrote:

I tried a single rope rappel on my new 8.5mm static rope with my Mammut Smart Alpine 7.5-9.5 and the assisted braking was non-existent.  Definitely test out your new belay device and rope combination while on a backup belay before committing to it.

Interesting, I have belayed with an 8.8 in the larger Smart Alpine with no problems. Every rope / device combo is different. 

Jcastleberry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 192

GIGAJUL

coppolillo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 70

Re: rappelling w Jul devoces—flip it around and rap non-assisted mode (mega and micro), or just use the Giga in non-assist mode....smoooooooth!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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