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Harness for trad

Original Post
Julien Leclerc · · Québec · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

My harness start to be old and im looking to buy my something to be "comfortable" in long route haha is it possible ??? Also im starting trad climbing and i want to be sure to buy the good one ! Thanks for your help

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

I doubt anyone will suggest the Misty Mountain Cadillac. I seriously doubt it.

Pierre Proulx · · Montreal, Quebec, CA · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 10
FrankPSwrote: I doubt anyone will suggest the Misty Mountain Cadillac. I seriously doubt it.

Indeed, that would certainly be a first. 

Chris Fedorczak · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

If you want a billion gear loops, check out the Singing Rock Dome as an alternative to the MM or BD Big Gun. Personally, I don’t big wall, so I have never needed that much space.

For trad I use a dead bird harness with a fifth gear “loop” in the back. I used to climb in the Petzl Adjama, which seemed to work well, until the stiff front gear loops all broke from being in my backpack. Decent harness, but pretty dumb design IMHO.

John Reeve · · Durango, CO · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 15
FrankPSwrote: I doubt anyone will suggest the Misty Mountain Cadillac. I seriously doubt it.

Totally.  Nobody likes those.  

I mean, I like mine a lot, but as far as I know I'm a goofy weirdo who agrees with no one and whith whom no one agrees.

Seriously Moderate Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

I like the Edelrid Orion, which doesn't seem to get mentioned much here.

Steve Climber · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 725

I don't have any firsthand experience with it, but there's a new edelrid harness that got a glowing review from outdoor gear lab recently: ​Link​​​

Seems to have enough gear loops to be adequate for trad ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Mike Palasek · · Columbus, OH · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0

Want to give another shout out for the Singing Rock Dome harness. It's very comfortable. Weighs 19.75 ounces. And has lots of racking space! I use it exclusively for trad. Have had Arteryx, BD, Petzl, DMM, and Wild Country harnesses. The Singing Rock Dome is my all-time favorite. MHO.

Aaron Jones · · vienna wv · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0
FrankPSwrote: I doubt anyone will suggest the Misty Mountain Cadillac. I seriously doubt it.

Just purchased the Cadillac for the wife today she really likes it so far but will know more after some extended use but so far so good 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252
Chris Fedorczakwrote: If you want a billion gear loops, check out the Singing Rock Dome as an alternative to the MM or BD Big Gun. Personally, I don’t big wall, so I have never needed that much space.

For trad I use a dead bird harness with a fifth gear “loop” in the back. I used to climb in the Petzl Adjama, which seemed to work well, until the stiff front gear loops all broke from being in my backpack. Decent harness, but pretty dumb design IMHO.

Yeah I had some weird stiching wear out on the leg loops within the first few months of owning mine.  I like the big gear loops and the price was great but I wouldn’t buy it again.

TS get a MM Cadillac or a dead bird.  Let’s get this over with.  The Cadillac is without a doubt the most comfortable harness you can get, and you’ll really notice a difference on hanging belays where you’re chilling for a while.  It also has a bazillion gear loops BUT they’re smaller than the Adjama/Arcteryx, so the actual usable space is comparable.  Arcteryx packs down much better and will not feel as cumbersome...will probably be my next purchase (I tried both it and the Adjama on in the store but went with the latter because it was cheaper).

Josh Gibbel · · Rapid City, SD · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 195

I like my Solution Guide Harness. Bulletproof construction. I climb 3-4 days a week and it still looks almost new. It isn’t the greatest if you ice climb allot. No ice clipper slots. 

Ty Gilroy · · Great White North · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 10

Swami belt

Tricam Proselytist · · Moab, UT · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

Can't go wrong with the Cadillac, but I prefer the Sonic from MM, I don't need all the gear loops, 4 is plenty for a double rack and I prefer having only one buckle, plus it packs down way smaller, yet is plenty comfortable hanging in. I've spent hours hanging on mine shooting photography.

Todd R · · Boulderado, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 73

I rarely see it mentioned but the Wild Country Synchro is bad ass for all day free climbs.

7 gear loops, way less bulky than BD and MM counterparts, and still super comfy. 

Paul Bakker · · San Jose, CA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 30

I just replaced my Misty Mountain Cadillac with the new Arc'teryx C-QUENCE. I found the Cadillac to be too bulky and the overlapping gear loops actually made racking harder. I used the Cadillac for about 3 years. The C-QUENCE is much more minimalistic but extremely comfortable (more comfortable than the Cadillac), even while hanging in it. The gear loops are large and because of the shape/angle, it keeps things tidy. I've used it with a double rack plus several big cams (up to DMM #7), and it was still plenty of space. The Cadillac is still a great harness as well though!

As with all things Arc'teryx, it's expensive though... (~$150).

Jacob Butler · · Frederick, MD · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 35

One more for the Wild Country Synchro

Pierre Proulx · · Montreal, Quebec, CA · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 10
Paul Bakkerwrote: I just replaced my Misty Mountain Cadillac with the new Arc'teryx C-QUENCE. I found the Cadillac to be too bulky and the overlapping gear loops actually made racking harder. I used the Cadillac for about 3 years. The C-QUENCE is much more minimalistic but extremely comfortable (more comfortable than the Cadillac), even while hanging in it. The gear loops are large and because of the shape/angle, it keeps things tidy. I've used it with a double rack plus several big cams (up to DMM #7), and it was still plenty of space. The Cadillac is still a great harness as well though!

As with all things Arc'teryx, it's expensive though... (~$150).

the problem with the arcteryx C-quence is actually finding one. I've been looking for a medium for the past two months but everybody is out of stock.   

Kevin Kirk · · Oakhurst, CA · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 90

Literally just bought a medium cquence from rei, decided to go with it since it’s lighter than a misty mountain. 

Paul Bakker · · San Jose, CA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 30
Pierre Proulxwrote:

the problem with the arcteryx C-quence is actually finding one. I've been looking for a medium for the past two months but everybody is out of stock.   

Got mine from REI, which was the only place that has it already that I could find.

F r i t z · · North Mitten · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 1,190

I just tie a rewoven bowline through my Prince Albert. Really motivates me to send instead of take.

Tim Page · · Bend, OR · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 10

Another vote for the C-quence. Love mine so far, the gear loops are awesome. Easily racks a double rack plus.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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